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Old 03-11-2015, 10:39 PM   #11
Join Date: Aug 2014
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Originally Posted by glen1971 View Post
Just a question... Is it not common practice to extend and retract the landing gear and position the slide(s) with the TV still connected? Where practical of course.... Since our current trailer is our first with a slide, I figured the slide would be a larger draw on my TT's battery so I've always operated mine while connected to either shore power or to the TV..
I usually roll my slide out before I level the camper, which means it is still hooked up to my TV before I back over my leveling blocks. Not sure it matters much though, you're not going to burn through a whole charge of the battery just by running the little electric motors that turn the gears on your slide.

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Old 03-12-2015, 06:53 PM   #12
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yea, the hyd pump motor for hyd jacks will be alot more load then the slide motors.

Either way, never hurts to keep the TV connected (and running) when possible during setup (opening slides, dropping jacks, ect) if your not at a powered site or have to run a genset to charge.

But, this is all granted that the trailer is properly wired to allow the 12v aux power from the 7pin connector to charge/power the trailer. One thing to watch for, is that some trucks have the 7pin connectors 12v aux power hot only with the key on, and some will be hot all the time. if your trucks 7pin has a hot 12v feed all the time, keep in mind that you could kill your truck battery if you leave it connected!

'14 XLR 395AMP
'16 Ram 3500 DRW, 6.7 cummins w/aisin trans and 4.10 gears
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Old 03-12-2015, 07:06 PM   #13
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Based on your signature, it looks like the 5er was stored in an area where the temp got well below freezing for some time. A totally dead battery will crack if frozen. You might want to check it. Also if it is totally dead connecting the 5er to the TV may blow the fuse in the TV 12V aux circuit as the current demand of the battery will be very high. You may have to disconnect the battery ground on the 5er to prevent this. Also a totally dead battery is usually damaged such that it will not regain full capacity. If it is 2-3 yrs old, you might consider getting a replacement and installing it before you try to move it.

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Old 03-12-2015, 07:33 PM   #14
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yes, take care to check for a frozen battery!

A battery at a 60% charge (12.2v) can freeze at temperatures as 'warm' as -16f. a battery at 40% (11.9v) can freeze at +5f. a battery at 11.5v or lower will freeze just below the freezing temp of water!

When a battery freezes it usually leaves a telltale bulge in the battery case, though not all the time. sometimes their can be some slight or isolated freezing in particular cells. Typically when the electrolyte freezes it causes damage to the cell plates and can cause an internal short in the battery (thus the reason you should never try to recharge a frozen battery). if a battery has been froze, and your lucky enough there wasnt catastrophic damage (broken case or internal short), the battery will never fully recover, it will need to be replaced.

Even if a battery hasnt been froze, if it has been discharged below 11.5v (20%) it will have a drastically shortened capacity and lifespan
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Old 03-12-2015, 09:00 PM   #15
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One 100 watt solar panel and a small controller will assure you never have another dead battery IF the unit is stored where it can get sun light. I got tired of watching my batteries go way down in two weeks. I started pulling fuses of the parasitic circuits when I would leave it.
Then I installed disconnect switches to both batteries. That worked, but was a pain remembering to cut them off each time.
Installed one 100 watt solar panel, 20 amp MPPT controller and then started just leaving all switches on and fuses in place. Batteries are now always at or above 12.8 vdc.
This was a $250 fix that I should have done when I first bought the Aviator, but hey, live and learn.
I know NOTHING about cold weather effects on batts as I avoid cold weather like the plague!

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