Prodigy 90250 Brake controller advice please!

[Wlshman]

When I initially connected the unit, it is successfully paired to my vehicle. However the flashing “not connected” message is coming up on the handheld unit. When I unhook/disconnect the vehicle from the unit, connect it up to another vehicle to test it ( A Mercedes SUV or Subaru) Somehow this resets the unit and it then works in those other vehicles. I then connect back up to my vehicle, and the “not connected” light stays away, connects, allowing me to continue with functioning perfectly.

Next time I unhook the RPod, it happens again! I have to repeat/reset with another vehicle every time I hook up. Any ideas why this is happening and what the fix is? My vehicle is a Hyundai Santa Fe 2017 Ultimate model.

Wires are brand new, connections are perfect.

Thanks very much

[mxtreme30]

I know on my 2018 Nissan frontier it makes a difference if I start the truck with foot on brake or off the brake on the P3 even without a trailer connected. If I start it with foot off the brake it will immediately flash "no trailer connected". If I have my foot on the brake it acts like there is a trailer connected and sends a brake voltage to wiring harness. I'm not much help with your problem, but you might try experimenting to see if you can find a work-around.

[Bama Rambler]

Just so I understand what you're seeing. The handheld is showing "n.c." is that correct?

I'd say that there's something in the vehicle that's interfering with the RF signal or there's actually a wiring issue with the tow vehicle and/or the RV.

That error message has quite a list of possible causes;
1. Power Module not connected to tow vehicle.
2. Trailer connector disconnected or corroded.
3. Key off or Loss of Battery Power from tow vehicle.
4. Trailer connected with open circuit on the brake line.
5. Loss of trailer brake magnet ground.
6. Loss of RF Communications, signal or interference.
7. Unit not paired or improperly paired.

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by Bama Rambler

Just so I understand what you're seeing. The handheld is showing "n.c." is that correct?

I'd say that there's something in the vehicle that's interfering with the RF signal or there's actually a wiring issue with the tow vehicle and/or the RV.

That error message has quite a list of possible causes;
1. Power Module not connected to tow vehicle.
2. Trailer connector disconnected or corroded.
3. Key off or Loss of Battery Power from tow vehicle.
4. Trailer connected with open circuit on the brake line.
5. Loss of trailer brake magnet ground.
6. Loss of RF Communications, signal or interference.
7. Unit not paired or improperly paired.

Bluetooth can be great, when it works correctly. When it doesn't it makes one wonder if it wasn't just simpler to use the "Old School" hard wired device(s). Wiring can take less time and be less trouble than all the hours needed to diagnose and (maybe) correct the BT issues.

I've come to believe that "Bluetooth" is of the "opposite sex". It has what seems to be "cyclic moods".

[Wlshman]

Thanks for the advice. And yes “NC” does not show after I disconnect the break controller and reconnect it again

[thebrakeman]

Originally Posted by TitanMike

Bluetooth can be great, when it works correctly. When it doesn't it makes one wonder if it wasn't just simpler to use the "Old School" hard wired device(s). Wiring can take less time and be less trouble than all the hours needed to diagnose and (maybe) correct the BT issues.

I've come to believe that "Bluetooth" is of the "opposite sex". It has what seems to be "cyclic moods".

Blah, blah, blah, shame on you for trying what you thought would work better than you. Blah, blah, blah, hindsight is 20-20. Blah, blah, blah, I prefer trolling instead of helping.

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by thebrakeman

Blah, blah, blah, shame on you for trying what you thought would work better than you. Blah, blah, blah, hindsight is 20-20. Blah, blah, blah, I prefer trolling instead of helping.

Sorry you took offense at my pointing out the obvious.

Do some reading on Bluetooth and it will be obvious that it's temperamental.

It uses a frequency (band) that is used by all kinds of interference like Wifi, Microwaves, all kinds of scientific and industrial equipment etc.

When one is having problems with a bluetooth device not remaining connected look around for interference. Can be their own home wifi router, a wifi "extender", neighbors microwave, and countless other devices.

It's also limited to extremely short ranges (like 30 feet on average). If one has a couple of people nearby with Smartphones and bluetooth headsets, more interference.

Best method I've found to clear up bluetooth issues with my devices (Solar controller and battery monitor) is to just start over. Unpair devices, shut down control device, restart device and start setup from the beginning.

Bluetooth uses extremely low power RF signals for communication and also "channel hops" as it's transferring data. ANY interference can interrupt the smooth flow of data packets and the end result is lots of frustration by users..


FWIW, a known issue with bluetooth type brake controllers.


As for suggesting that the OP use something different? Sorry, I was just musing about how, in our quest for something "simple" we end up with things often more complicated and troublesome.

FWIW, think about how many sources of electronic interference we find in today's vehicles. Got a new vehicle with wifi hotspot incorporated into it's "infotainment center"? How about "Onstar"? All the computers that control engine, transmission, and various body systems like heat, A/C, etc?

Now add passengers with bluetooth headphones and smartphones with both Wifi and Bluetooth "Radios" installed.

Last but not least to the OP, make sure the 7-wire connector "plugs" have clean contacts. They are the most neglected electrical connections in any tor vehicle-trailer combination. They get soaked with rain water, snow melt (loaded with melting chemicals) and just allowed to hang in the elements when not used. Take a few moments and carefully clean contacts and if really corroded, consider replacing. The fact it works with different trailers to me would be a clue as the plugs are different.

As for your comment=========== Whatever!

[bikendan]

I agree Mike. I'm fine with using Bluetooth with my cordless headphones but I'm would NEVER rely on it for operating my trailer brakes. I would require a wired BC.

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by bikendan

I agree Mike. I'm fine with using Bluetooth with my cordless headphones but I'm would NEVER rely on it for operating my trailer brakes. I would require a wired BC.

The prodigy wireless looks a lot better, as a system, than others like the Curt Echo. Not only is it relying on wireless tech, the accelerometers are mounted in the adapter that plugs into the 7Wire receptacle. Any movement of the adapter caused by a loose receptacle or swinging cable causes the brakes to "self apply". Add that to the loss of communication with smartphone due to interference and it's made for a bunch of less than happy people.

[babock]

I wasn't aware that the Prodigy unit even used Bluetooth at all. I know the Curt one does but I thought this unit used its own proprietary RF interface.

BTW...the controller still will still function if it loses connection with the handheld unit. The last settings are stored in the controller. You just don't have manual control of the unit.

Another BTW for the OP. If your power to your 7 pin connector goes away with the vehicle off or for other reasons, you will get the NC on the handheld unit.

To me, it's not an RF issue but a powering up issue between the power of the handheld unit and the 7 pin connector not happening as the OP thinks it should/is.

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by babock

I wasn't aware that the Prodigy unit even used Bluetooth at all. I know the Curt one does but I thought this unit used its own proprietary RF interface.

BTW...the controller still will still function if it loses connection with the handheld unit. The last settings are stored in the controller. You just don't have manual control of the unit.

Another BTW for the OP. If your power to your 7 pin connector goes away with the vehicle off or for other reasons, you will get the NC on the handheld unit.

To me, it's not an RF issue but a powering up issue between the power of the handheld unit and the 7 pin connector not happening as the OP thinks it should/is.

True not specifically "bluetooth" but not necessarily a proprietary frequency either. Tekonsha is using a public frequency up around 3200mhz which is also used by government.

Side note on frequency usage and issues with other devices popular with RV'ers, TPMS devices can share frequencies with things like wireless temperature sensors, etc.

[babock]

I didn't say proprietary frequency... proprietary interface.

Originally Posted by TitanMike

True not specifically "bluetooth" but not necessarily a proprietary frequency either. Tekonsha is using a public frequency up around 3200mhz which is also used by government.

Side note on frequency usage and issues with other devices popular with RV'ers, TPMS devices can share frequencies with things like wireless temperature sensors, etc.

[Bama Rambler]

Originally Posted by Wlshman

Thanks for the advice. And yes “NC” does not show after I disconnect the break controller and reconnect it again

Sorry this has become a bumping match. I figure that you already bought the unit and instead of telling you that it's no good and that you should have bought something else, I figured I'd try to help getting it working as well as possible.

If you're still around, it sounds like the controller maybe isn't seeing the connection until you unhook and rehook it to the tow vehicle. If that's the case, I'd try to clean the 7-way plug and receptacle and see if that helps any.

[Lee Pedrick]

I would NEVER,,,NEVER,,,NEVER,,use ANY wireless device to control the brakes in lets say an 8000lb or more,,,or less trailer. You just might kill someone one day. Sorry,,just MY opinion.

[babock]

Originally Posted by Lee Pedrick

I would NEVER,,,NEVER,,,NEVER,,use ANY wireless device to control the brakes in lets say an 8000lb or more,,,or less trailer. You just might kill someone one day. Sorry,,just MY opinion.

The controller works whether it has connection with the remote in the cab or not. Once the controller has its settings, it autonomous from the remote in the cab.

These type controllers are perfect for vehicles that don't have the blue wire from the dash to the rear of the car. Also if the trailer is used by multiple tow vehicles that don't have controllers in them.

The wireless aspect is pretty insignificant. The controller functions are mounted on the trailer.