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02-10-2016, 11:29 AM
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#41
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 4,223
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This is a little off the thread topic but PenJoe mentioned checking the breakaway switch. A caution for this.
I'm not sure if this still applies to current systems but a few years back the manual for one of my many horse trailers had instructions to check the breakaway by manually activating it to verify the brakes worked. It mentioned, in red letters, to make sure the trailer was not connected to the tow vehicle because when activating the breakaway the power could be reverse fed to the brake controller and COULD cause damage.
May not be applicable now but it only takes a few seconds to disconnect the pigtail.
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BIRDS AREN’T REAL
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02-10-2016, 01:28 PM
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#42
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Wisconsin/Florida
Posts: 1,905
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emm-dee
This is a little off the thread topic but PenJoe mentioned checking the breakaway switch. A caution for this.
I'm not sure if this still applies to current systems but a few years back the manual for one of my many horse trailers had instructions to check the breakaway by manually activating it to verify the brakes worked. It mentioned, in red letters, to make sure the trailer was not connected to the tow vehicle because when activating the breakaway the power could be reverse fed to the brake controller and COULD cause damage.
May not be applicable now but it only takes a few seconds to disconnect the pigtail.
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This is a notable point. It is doubtful that the system has changed. So to caution on the safe side, do not be electrically connected to the TV. The RV batteries are connected in series so there is only 12 volts. Though the TV and the trailer disconnect batteries are 12 volts,the batteries would be in parallel. That could be applying 24 volts to a 12 volt system.
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02-10-2016, 01:44 PM
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#43
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Komoka Ontario
Posts: 2,680
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You could always put a proper hitch on Hensley Mfg., Inc. - Trailer Sway Eliminated...Guaranteed before you start and never need to worry about sway or how to get out of it.
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"Well that didn't go as expected"
2015 Chev 2500HD Highcountry Duramax
Cedar Creek Silverback 33IK
Donald&Casey cairn terrier
Rest in Peace Mary my darling wife.
Scottish by birth Canadian by time.
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02-10-2016, 02:53 PM
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#44
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,219
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My Equal-i-zer 4 point has been a perfectly proper fit for my truck and trailer in 22,000 towing miles. An extremely marginal tow vehicle could benefit from a Hensley though, especially with a shorter wheel base.
2010 F250 5.4L 3.73
2011 Flagstaff 831FKBSS
Equal-i-zer 4pt 12K
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2011 Flagstaff 831FKBSS
2010 F250 4X4 5.4L 3.73 LS
EQUALIZER E4 1200/12000
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02-11-2016, 06:32 PM
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#45
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Tulsa
Posts: 438
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DDC
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Seems people will spend lot's of money on a truck and trailer. But will spend very little on a hitch. Then wonder why it's swaying in the wind. I tow in wind above 25 a lot of the time . It's not black or white . It is sway or not sway !! Happy towing !!
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2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee Diesel
2013 Salem Cruise light 19bh
Hensley Cub hitch ,
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02-11-2016, 06:40 PM
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#46
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Youroo is correct, accelerate slightly and MANUALLY apply the trailer brakes at the same time.
BTW, no hitch is completely sway proof!
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02-11-2016, 06:59 PM
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#47
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Tulsa
Posts: 438
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lbrjet
My Equal-i-zer 4 point has been a perfectly proper fit for my truck and trailer in 22,000 towing miles. An extremely marginal tow vehicle could benefit from a Hensley though, especially with a shorter wheel base.
2010 F250 5.4L 3.73
2011 Flagstaff 831FKBSS
Equal-i-zer 4pt 12K
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That's a great point Mr Lbrjet !! But the Equal-i-zer is one of the best hitches on the market today. Put that hitch on a 3/4 ton truck great setup.
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2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee Diesel
2013 Salem Cruise light 19bh
Hensley Cub hitch ,
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02-21-2016, 08:44 AM
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#48
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Tulsa
Posts: 438
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DDC
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But DDC it's a lot more fun to keep one hand on the brake controller in case of sway and the seat cover up your well you get the point. I like to drink my joe and enjoy the tow. Getting to the camping spot is half the fun !! Happy towing !!
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2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee Diesel
2013 Salem Cruise light 19bh
Hensley Cub hitch ,
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02-21-2016, 01:13 PM
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#49
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Wisconsin/Florida
Posts: 1,905
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DDC
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Hopefully, this is a pun. For curiosity, I read through some of the Hensley reviews. One of them equated the quality of the hitch to a safe stop after a TT blow out. We blew a tire on a fully loaded tandem axle cargo trailer and did not have a sway event, nor did we have an EQ hitch.
For average towing, it's a great product. Believing in advertising hype can get you killed. Engineers can do some great stuff, but Mother Nature will always rule. When she does, it is good to have knowledge to the what ifs. The rogue cross wind event we experienced in Nebraska would have put the best set up sideways. Brake controller engaged and a little acceleration pulled it back in line. It happened once in decades of towing-but it happened and I am here.
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02-21-2016, 01:46 PM
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#50
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 670
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To pay my way through college I worked construction-related jobs towing all types of improperly loaded trailers w/variety of 1/2, 3/4 & 1 ton trucks in all types of weather... It's true that you want to manually apply the TT brakes BEFORE backing off the accelerator, but you don't want to actually succeed in accelerating.... Increasing your speed evenly slightly can compound other factors caused by crosswinds, slippery road conditions, etc... Most folks' first reaction to any crisis is to decelerate so they remember applying more gas to get it straightened out. If you don't decelerate before you manually apply the TT brakes then you will gain control faster without risking the side-effects of increased speed....
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2011 RAM 2500 ST Crew Cab 5.7 Hemi
2011 Primetime 3150BHD Touring Edition
Days camped in 2018- 25
2017- 31; 2016- 36; 2015- 37; 2014- 31
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02-23-2016, 11:26 AM
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#51
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Canton, Michigan
Posts: 1,348
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This is why I always use boost mode b1 on the expressway.
Can't remember if this was already mentioned, but the Tekonsha brake controllers have you covered here. By using any of the boost modes, the trailer will always lead the braking event, by applying some percentage of max braking the instant that you even touch the brakes:
b0 - No trailer braking until decal is detected.
b1 - As soon as pedal is touched (brake light comes on), 13% of set max voltage is applied. When more than 13% is required, proportional braking takes over.
b2 - ....25%....
b3 - ....25%....and additional braking is more aggressive.
So, if you are on b1, b2, or b3, keep your foot on the gas, and just touch the brake pedal with left foot. Chances are, the 13-25% that is instantly applied will bring the trailer back in line. This lets you keep both hands on the wheel.
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thebrakeman ('70), DW ('71), DD ('99), DD ('01), DD ('05)
2004 Surveyor SV261T (UltraLite Bunkhouse Hybrid)
2006 Mercury Mountaineer V8 AWD Premier
Equal-i-zer WDH (10k), Prodigy Brake Controller
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02-23-2016, 11:56 AM
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#52
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 4,223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thebrakeman
This is why I always use boost mode b1 on the expressway.
Can't remember if this was already mentioned, but the Tekonsha brake controllers have you covered here. By using any of the boost modes, the trailer will always lead the braking event, by applying some percentage of max braking the instant that you even touch the brakes:
b0 - No trailer braking until decal is detected.
b1 - As soon as pedal is touched (brake light comes on), 13% of set max voltage is applied. When more than 13% is required, proportional braking takes over.
b2 - ....25%....
b3 - ....25%....and additional braking is more aggressive.
So, if you are on b1, b2, or b3, keep your foot on the gas, and just touch the brake pedal with left foot. Chances are, the 13-25% that is instantly applied will bring the trailer back in line. This lets you keep both hands on the wheel.
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That's good info, but it brings up another question. I'm not knowledgeable at all about Ford, Chevy or Tundra operation but with the Ram Hemi if you leave your foot pressing on the gas pedal and simultaneously apply brake pedal pressure the engine will go to idle after about 3-4 (don't remember exact number) seconds. Hopefully the sway condition should be corrected before that happens. When that situation occurs there will be an error message on the EVIC screen. The throttle will return to normal operation within one second of releasing brake pressure. Cummins diesel operation----don't know. Y'all will have to test that.
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BIRDS AREN’T REAL
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02-23-2016, 12:33 PM
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#53
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Canton, Michigan
Posts: 1,348
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+1 for the aftermarket controllers!!! (sorry, I couldn't resist, my friend )
But joking aside:
By 3-4 seconds, the condition will have been corrected. If not, I think an idle condition will be the least of your concerns, as you will most likely be in the ditch.
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thebrakeman ('70), DW ('71), DD ('99), DD ('01), DD ('05)
2004 Surveyor SV261T (UltraLite Bunkhouse Hybrid)
2006 Mercury Mountaineer V8 AWD Premier
Equal-i-zer WDH (10k), Prodigy Brake Controller
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02-23-2016, 02:23 PM
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#54
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 4,223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thebrakeman
+1 for the aftermarket controllers!!! (sorry, I couldn't resist, my friend )
But joking aside:
By 3-4 seconds, the condition will have been corrected. If not, I think an idle condition will be the least of your concerns, as you will most likely be in the ditch.
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Agreed on the being in the ditch statement. However, even with an aftermarket controller you will get the same idle condition result. The truck computer thingy is only seeing simultaneous input from the brake and throttle pedals. The brake controller, either factory or aftermarket, is not going to see any info from the throttle.
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BIRDS AREN’T REAL
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02-26-2016, 02:02 PM
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#55
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Canton, Michigan
Posts: 1,348
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Gotcha. So either way, it shouldn't happen, since there is no need to hold both pedals for that long. Within 1-2 second, the sway event will be under control, and you should release the throttle.
__________________
thebrakeman ('70), DW ('71), DD ('99), DD ('01), DD ('05)
2004 Surveyor SV261T (UltraLite Bunkhouse Hybrid)
2006 Mercury Mountaineer V8 AWD Premier
Equal-i-zer WDH (10k), Prodigy Brake Controller
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02-26-2016, 05:49 PM
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#56
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 4,223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thebrakeman
Gotcha. So either way, it shouldn't happen, since there is no need to hold both pedals for that long. Within 1-2 second, the sway event will be under control, and you should release the throttle.
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Looks like we're finally in agreement. He$$ is freezing over.
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BIRDS AREN’T REAL
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02-28-2016, 02:36 AM
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#57
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Just a member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Great White North
Posts: 921
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Quote:
Originally Posted by youroo
Hold on,PRAY,Accelerate/while hitting the manual Trailer brakes,then if still in control, Slowly slow down! Youroo!!
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The "Accelerate" part may not be possible with many late model pickmeups etc. Many tow capable vehicles built in the last six or so yrs have traction control systems that incorporate anti sway logic. When engaged, and without operator input, the engine will unload and the brake system will apply braking to alternate wheels to counteract the sway. Other than that that niggly detail, your suggested course of action is bang on.
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TT: 2011 Rockwood 8293RKSS
TV: 2019 Dodge 3500 SRW Crew HO CTD
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