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Old 09-08-2015, 07:03 PM   #11
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Good video on setting it up.


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Old 09-08-2015, 07:23 PM   #12
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Eliminating bounce is taking up the slack in the area of the spring distance to axle with the factory snubber you have excessive clearance causing more bounce. Add the Timbren snubbers and now no excessive clearance and reduced bounce. Later RJD

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Old 09-12-2015, 05:16 PM   #13
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so I took the rv to get more weights today. I got 4
1) truck only
front axel 2900
rear axel 2100
gross weight 5000

2) no wdh
front axel 2680
rear axel 2900
trailer axel 9200
gross weight 9200

3) wdh with 3 links loose (more distribution)
front 2940
rear 2500
trailer 3740
gross 9180 (not sure how I lost 20 pounds)

4) 2 links left (less distribution how dealer set up)
front 2800
rear 2700
trailer 3680
gross 9180

I did notice that with my trailer level that My ball sits about an inch or so above the top of trailer tongue
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Old 09-14-2015, 02:54 PM   #14
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1. What is your loaded TW?
2. What is the rating on your WDH?
I assume that #2 is greater than #1.
But if these 2 numbers are too close together, the WD bars are too easily flexed, and this can lead to that bouncy ride (known as "porpoising", as it's the center coupler area that is actually bouncing up and down from those "spring" bars).

I had this problem when I was using a 400 lbs rated WDH to tow our previous popup camper at 375 lbs TW. I needed the WDH because we were using a minivan. Crank it down hard enough to get the loading right, and it was bouncy. Don't crank it down enough, and the front loading was too light. The solution was to lighten the TW a good bit, and rely on the friction sway controller. Not a great solution, but it worked.
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Old 09-14-2015, 03:02 PM   #15
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I would add air bags that you can control in lieu of Timbrens where you have no control.
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Old 09-14-2015, 03:19 PM   #16
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My wdh is rated at 15000 lbs and 1500 tw
The only tw I have is that I was going off of what is transferred to truck. Which would be around 460. Which is a little over 10% of the 4200 trailer loaded.
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Old 09-14-2015, 03:24 PM   #17
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I would say that wdh is too big for that trailer. The bars are going to be so stiff that the back of the truck is not going to move much.

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Old 09-14-2015, 07:56 PM   #18
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If the spring bars are as oversized as the hitch, that's probably correct. What is the rating (weight range) on them?... there should be a sticker. Probably can exchange those and keep the hitch (which you can use with your next, bigger TT).
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Old 09-14-2015, 07:59 PM   #19
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Thanks I will have to look at the bars this weekend when I go to take the trailer out of storage. Last weekend trip before leaving for our 8 hour trip.
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Old 09-14-2015, 08:22 PM   #20
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I would add a little more weight to the front of your trailer as you are at about a 12% tongue weight. Ideal is 13-15% and with the bouncing a bit more will help. As stated above if you have 1500 lb bars, they are way too big. I would get a 600/6000 lb bars. If not made for your brand (what wdh do you have?) then get 800/8000 lb bars. This will help. The p rated tires do have more flex but I would change them after you try fixing the hitch. When adjusting your wdh, you want your drop to have your trailer level when hooked up. Remember the rear will drop a little on the truck so measure front and rear on the trailer after hooking up. If high in the front then lower the drop shank. If slightly lower in front that is ok but not significantly lower in front and not higher in front. The idea with the wdh and adjusting by weight is to get your front axle as close to unloaded weight as possible without going heavier than unloaded weight. You may find the following links helpful.

travel trailer hitch set up procedure
wdh, how it works

<a href= target=_blank></a>
2014 Crew Cab Chevy Silverado 3500 4wd Duramax/Allison
2014 Sabre 34REQS-6
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