Pull test with hydraulic LevelUp

[ependydad]

I read a question about this a long time ago but it didn’t matter at the time because it didn’t apply to me at the time.

So now I’m asking because that’s better than Google and y’all are awesome!

Ok- so when you retract the LevelUp system, it raises one foot entirely and then the other.

I don’t like to do the pull test with both feet down. I don’t like to put the pressure on the front legs until the camper breaks grab.

So, how do you get both feet so they’re only 1-2” off of the ground to do a proper pull test?

Here’s what mcnabbwr said in another thread. But I was a little confused by it... are the feet still on the ground? Or do you raise them and then re-lower them? Or...

Originally Posted by mcnabbwr

For the pull test as soon as the first jack makes contact the second one starts down, stop it just before it contacts the ground (1/2”) or so. Complete the test then hit the auto retract. Hope this helps.

Unrelated picture...

[keith52]

I've had the same question about a pull test for the last 4 years. I give it a tug with the legs fully retracted and hope for the best. So far, so good!

[mcnabbwr]

After you are fully hooked up lower the front jacks. The left jack will contact the ground followed by the right jack. Stop the right jack before it touches.

At this point the jacks have not raised the RV, do the pull test and when completed raise them with the auto retract. Hope this clears up the confusion.

[Jim34RL]

I do my pull test a little different. Only reason is I have a Bed Saver on my hitch so, don't try this at home unless you have a bed saver installed.

My legs are fully raised so, no stress or bending can occur on the legs. The trailer is full hooked up, Tailgate is down, brake lever on the brake controller is engaged with wheel chocks are in placed front and rear of the tire of one side of the camper. Then the test is done.

Again don't try this at home without a " BED SAVER" installed on the hitch.

[BandJCarm]

Maybe I'm not understanding what y'all mean by "pull test".

[moose074]

Ok so I done maybe two pull test I didn’t like the strain it put on the legs but I can see just bringing up the jacks to where they are barely touching if touching at all the chocks and trl brakes should be more than adequate pressure for testing to see if closed. I confess I just been backing in locking it then doing a visual to make sure closed properly. Figure if jaws are going to fail probably not on the pull test but under more of a strain down the road

[ependydad]

Originally Posted by mcnabbwr

After you are fully hooked up lower the front jacks. The left jack will contact the ground followed by the right jack. Stop the right jack before it touches.

At this point the jacks have not raised the RV, do the pull test and when completed raise them with the auto retract. Hope this clears up the confusion.

No worries about the confusion. I’m sure it’s me- I’m dumb and an over-thinker. It’s a terrible combination!

So you have the left foot on the ground and the right just off of the ground?

[dalford]

Connect to TV. Retract front jacks. Left will retract first. Allow left jack to completely retract and watch right jack. Allow right jack to come off the ground an inch or so. Stop retracting and extend front jacks. Right jack will not move but left jack will start extending. Extend until an inch or so off the ground. Do pull test.

Don’t get distracted and forget to retract front gear when done pull test.

On another note, you would be surprised and how many do not do a pull test.

[ependydad]

Originally Posted by BandJCarm

Maybe I'm not understanding what y'all mean by "pull test".

Once you hitch the camper to the truck, pin it (or whatever is applicable for your hitch), connect the umbilical cord , and connect the breakaway cable- most hitch instructions call for a “pull test”.

With the camper wheel still chocked, you lock the camper breaks with the break controller and try to drive the truck out from under the camper. If the trailer stays connected, the pull test was complete and you should be safe to drive. If not, the camper drops to the ground on the feet vs onto your truck’s bed rails.

I raise the camper landing gear so they’re just 2-3” off of the ground. I don’t like the stress on the legs with them still touching the ground. Yes, they’d take an impact if it falls, but it’s better that way because falling is the exception. 6 years and a couple hundred hitch ups and I’ve never come detached.

Here is how it is described from the B&W fifth wheel hitch instructions:

[ependydad]

I think I’ve read that if you put downward pressure on the first foot (ie, step on it) when it’s just an inch or two off of the ground, that’ll cause the second foot to start raising. You can then stop with both feet just off of the ground.

But, I haven’t tried it nor do I know if it’s wise to force it to stop like that.

[NMWildcat]

Originally Posted by dalford

On another note, you would be surprised and how many do not do a pull test.

Actually, I have never seen anybody do a pull test in real life. I have seen many folks doing (and performed myself) a visual confirmation of the kingpin and locked jaws.

But I can see where a pull test might be a good mental health benefit for belts, suspenders, and ropes folks.

[BandJCarm]

Never heard of it.

Thanks. Loss of just two more brain cells, and I will start doing that.

[spock123]

You know I don’t ever do a pull test, I just check that the jaws are wrapped around the pin. I have a bed saver but I always lock the handle plus put a lock in the hole.

[mcnabbwr]

Originally Posted by ependydad

No worries about the confusion. I’m sure it’s me- I’m dumb and an over-thinker. It’s a terrible combination!

So you have the left foot on the ground and the right just off of the ground?

That’s correct, there is very little downward pressure on the left until the right contacts the ground. That’s why you stop the right short of the ground. If anything fails during the pull test the RV only drops 1/2”.

[ependydad]

Originally Posted by dalford

Connect to TV. Retract front jacks. Left will retract first. Allow left jack to completely retract and watch right jack. Allow right jack to come off the ground an inch or so. Stop retracting and extend front jacks. Right jack will not move but left jack will start extending. Extend until an inch or so off the ground. Do pull test.



Don’t get distracted and forget to retract front gear when done pull test.



On another note, you would be surprised and how many do not do a pull test.

Ahh, nice. I’ll try these steps tonight when we hitch up.

And I pull test every time.

[NMWildcat]

Originally Posted by BandJCarm

Never heard of it.

Thanks. Loss of just two more brain cells, and I will start doing that.

Now that's funny! I might have to steal that saying from you

[BandJCarm]

Go ahead. But if I could sell 'em for a nickel each, I could pay for camping.

[ependydad]

Originally Posted by BandJCarm

Never heard of it.

Thanks. Loss of just two more brain cells, and I will start doing that.

Interesting. I know the B&W instructions specifically state to do so. And when I bought the first fifth wheel- the dealer explained them and told me to do it. But, I was real open about how new I was at the time.

This time, this dealer hitched my truck to the camper without me there, moved it to a parking spot, and were nowhere around for the first unhitching and later re-hitching.

[BandJCarm]

Oh, I can see the benefit.

I'm just A) too lazy and B) don't have the time.

LOL

[doc73]

I do a pull test.. Even with the TT if just to make sure the brakes were actually working. Takes a few extra minutes. I'll take the time to avoid an issue. While that may never come, it only needs to happen once to ruin your day!