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Old 03-03-2016, 01:33 PM   #21
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Tires ~ if you are running P rated on the truck for certain. Hitch for certain and I'd not bother setting up the current one as you still need sway control. Add on sway control will require removal when backing or tight turns. The Equalizer 4 point with sway control is my favorite. It too needs properly set up. Before going to set up load the trailer with some heavier stuff to the rear. That will give you an idea of if you want leveling help.
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Old 03-03-2016, 01:33 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by papatioman View Post
I agree with everything said here so far. I have already been to the Ford dealership about trading my F150 for a F250. They want $20,000.00 extra for a same year, same mileage trade......just paid mine off! Will do some reading like you all said.....thanks for the great help & tips!
No need to buy brand new. See if you can find a good used F-250 and sell your F-150 privately for a lot more return than a trade-in.

Do some research here on the forum to figure out what configuration of F-250 you need before you go shopping.
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Old 03-03-2016, 01:38 PM   #23
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I also tow a 36' TT and I do it with an f250, so I couldn't imagine having to pull that thing with just an f150, not for the power aspect but stability issues. I felt so unstable at first in a SD that I had to add air bags to the rear to level out the truck and it made a dramatic difference in the stability of the truck itself. I have the blue ox sway pro and no matter what anyone tells you, unless you have a propride or Hensley, you will have some movement with a 36' box behind you, from things like trucks, winds, or if the tires on your TT are trying to settle into grooves in the road....just make sure your hitch is up to the task of getting her back in line quickly, and you do the necessary work of correctly loading your trailer so you have proper tongue weight.
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Old 03-03-2016, 01:40 PM   #24
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My $.02.

That is a lot of trailer for a 1/2 ton truck with a 145" wheelbase.

But, if within all weight ratings (GVWR, GCWR, axles weights, and hitch rating) with the family loaded up then here are some things to consider:

That particular model coming from the factory has a very light tongue weight compared to the weight of the trailer (9%). You really need to load the trailer front heavy, and avoid any fluids in the waste tanks (behind the axles). An ideal tongue weight would be over 12% of the total trailer weight, which if that is obtained with a 10,000 lb trailer, would be 1200 lbs.

A property setup WDH with integrated sway control and 1200 lb. bars (or maybe even 1400 lb bars). The E2 only has 2 points of sway control, where the Equal-i-zer has 4 points. Better yet would be a Hensley or Propride hitch.

Looking at the picture, I would guess that there is not enough weight being put back on the steer axle....the truck is really sagging in the back. A trip to the scales is needed, both to see if enough weight is being transferred back to the steer axle, and to make sure none of the truck weights are being exceeded. Refer to other threads about how to properly do the 3 weigh-ins needed............all with the family and camping gear loaded in the same position every trip across the scales. I would be guessing that with the family (indicated by the bunkhouse) loaded up, and ~1200 lbs. of hitch, that many of the truck weight ratings will be exceeded.
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Old 03-03-2016, 01:57 PM   #25
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Here are the specs for the TT & TV:

TT:

Hitch Weight: 720lbs
Ship Weight: 7,891lbs
GVWR: 10,880lbs

TV:

Max. Loaded Trailer Weight: 9,800lbs
Max. Tongue load w/ WDH: 1,130lbs
Max. Trailer Weight w/ WDH: 11,300lbs.

I have an Fastaway E2 that has sway control built in and I travel with empty tanks. Trailer loaded for camping was at approx. 8,200lbs with nothing loaded at the rear past the axles.
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Old 03-03-2016, 02:28 PM   #26
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We have a 2011 F150 3.5 eb 6.5 bed max tow with LTD tires, a 2012 Freedom Express 310BHDS loaded for camping about 8500 lbs 12000 lb wdh my truck handles this well .If you're truck isn't a max tow with LT tires you probably don't have enough truck for your tt
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Old 03-03-2016, 03:45 PM   #27
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I am pulling a 34 foot cherokee with my 6.2L 1500 Silverado HD. I have air bags, equalizer 10k wd hitch, and proper tires. I have absolutely no problems. No white knuckles, no close calls, and I have driven easy coast to West coast, in heavy cross winds, tail winds and extreme hot weather. No issues. Just work to get your set up, right. You should add air bags as the springs are definitely soft. I really believe in my equalizer hitch and check your the rating on the TV. You'll be fine.
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Old 03-03-2016, 04:10 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by papatioman View Post

TV:

Max. Loaded Trailer Weight: 9,800lbs
Max. Tongue load w/ WDH: 1,130lbs
Max. Trailer Weight w/ WDH: 11,300lbs.
Those numbers sound like tha absolute max IF the f150 has the Max Tow Package AND the HD Payload package, which is not that common.

What's your driver's door sticker say is the truck's payload capacity?
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Old 03-03-2016, 04:50 PM   #29
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For an F-150, before the new aluminum body models, GVWR was around 7200# with or without the max. tow package. The max. tow pkg. gives you an upgraded hitch, trans. cooler, large towing mirrors and maybe a few other upgrades.

With the HD Payload package, the GVWR is over 8000# due to beefier frame, suspension, axles, wheels and LT tires.
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Old 03-03-2016, 05:26 PM   #30
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For now, increasing the P rated tires to the max allowable pressure when towing helps. It does make a difference. Does not replace LT tires by any means.
I will say use extreme caution under hard heavy braking. The TT will push down on back of truck causing front axle to become lighter. You will lose some braking and steering input. That's why I now have F250. It doesn't have to be diesel, thinking that's why dealer asking $20,000 more.
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Old 03-03-2016, 05:41 PM   #31
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papatioman there have been some great replies and I also pull a36' coachmen with a
Ram 1500. I added airlift 1000 because I have coil springs and it helped. beware when
driving on asphalt in right lane big trucks have wore two shallow valleys in asphalt and
when towing your rear tires are running up and down in the valleys which causes your
tv to wiggle and is amplified on your trailer. that has been my experience and when running on concrete you can compare. but above all, have good time
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Old 03-03-2016, 05:43 PM   #32
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Having used them I think you will find they will be a bandaid.. And end up spending the money on the 4 point anyways.. Maybe you can upgrade to the 4 point through the dealer?

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Old 03-03-2016, 05:47 PM   #33
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Here is the towing chart from Ford for my truck....also checked with the local Ford dealer on towing capacities before I bought the TT.

http://www.ford.com/resources/ford/g..._F150nov18.pdf
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Old 03-03-2016, 06:35 PM   #34
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Look at your chart and the notes.. Here is what is says and the key is GAWR and GVWR. Did the Ford dealer ask for the tongue weight of the loaded trailer or just how much the trailer weighted. If he did NOT ask tongue weight he gave you bad information.

Trailer tongue (trailer king pin for 5th-wheel towing) load weight should be 10-15% (15-25% for 5th-wheel towing) of total loaded trailer weight. Make sure vehicle payload (reduce by
option weight) will accommodate trailer tongue (trailer king pin for 5th-wheel towing) load weight and weight of passengers and cargo added to towing vehicle. Addition of trailer tongue
(trailer king pin for 5th-wheel towing) load weight and weight of passengers and cargo cannot cause vehicle weights to exceed rear GAWR or GVWR. These ratings can be found on the
vehicle Safety Compliance Certification LabeL


I don't know if you are exceeding those weight but you need to bring to the scales and see where you are at.
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Old 03-03-2016, 08:09 PM   #35
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Just be careful that you don't spend a ton of money trying to make the F150 work, then ultimately have to go to a Superduty anyway, and lose most of those dollars. Many of us have done that....ahem,....
Let's see,..set of LT tires...$900, airbags....$400-$600, shocks upgrade $300,....new wd hitch...$ I don't know. However the wdh might be needed anyway.
I can envision easily spending a couple grand and after six months still want a heavy duty truck. And I would also say this..."IF" you go Superduty, look closely at the F350. Just a few bucks more, and provides lots of trailer options.

Ultimately you have to figure out what's right for your situation. I'm just offering food for thought.

Good luck either way.
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Old 03-03-2016, 08:16 PM   #36
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While my rig is no where as long as yours, I installed Firestone Air Bags 5K, and they helped tremendously on the bounce.
My TV is a Dodge Big Horn 1500, and the last trip I took was 2,000 miles via six state.
As mentioned before, will level the truck only and reduce the annoying bounce but will not add anything to what your TV is rated for.
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Old 03-03-2016, 08:31 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by papatioman View Post
Hello Happy Campers,

Recently purchased a 2016 Salem 36BHBS TT and my TV is a 2011 Ford F150 Eco Boost. Just returned from our maiden voyage of 750 miles. My WDH is a Fastaway 92-00-1000 E2 10,000lbs that I got the dealer to throw in and they did the setup. I had a few white knuckle moments when the big rigs were passing and I need to improve my setup. My original plan was to install rear helper springs on my TV to improve the bounce along with a CURT sway control on each side on the TT tongue. Recently I've been reading that the Equal-I-zer 4 point WDH is far superior to the E2 that I currently have. I have even read that with the 4 point WDH, no additional sway control is needed. Wanted to check to see if anyone else was pulling a long TT and to find out what setup they have.............thanks!
Papatioman- I'm looking at the photo of your setup, I have to ask, when taking a corner you ever take out any pedestrians or light standards.

Looks like there would be a lot of swing back there.

Just asking,

John.
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Old 03-03-2016, 08:47 PM   #38
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I think what you are missing is the tongue application and payload limit of the truck. These 2 things are just as important as the weight you can pull. Just because it say you can "pull" the weight does not mean that your truck can handle the payload added by that weight.

What is the payload rating of your truck? What does the yellow sticker say, do not go by the brochure or the pamplet the dealer gave you. Your specific payload limit is stated on the yellow sticker on your drivers door jam of the truck.
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Old 03-03-2016, 09:00 PM   #39
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I personally understand the nightmare realization of a 1/2 ton truck not being big enough to comfortably tow a travel trailer. After 2,000 miles of towing with our 1/2 ton, we traded a perfectly good truck for a much heavier F250. I cannot describe how much the shear mass of this new truck improved our overall towing experience. My only regret is not getting the F350 for its heavier leaf springs. The standard springs on the f250 are a little squashy. Wish you the very best!
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Old 03-03-2016, 09:31 PM   #40
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I have a "heavy 1/2 ton" F150. Of the three things I did for sway, white knuckle driving, I believe LT tires was the most beneficial. "P" tires are a nightmare while towing. In addition, I have a Hensley Hitch (which I would not give up) and Firestone airbags.
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