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Old 03-03-2016, 01:33 PM   #21
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Tires ~ if you are running P rated on the truck for certain. Hitch for certain and I'd not bother setting up the current one as you still need sway control. Add on sway control will require removal when backing or tight turns. The Equalizer 4 point with sway control is my favorite. It too needs properly set up. Before going to set up load the trailer with some heavier stuff to the rear. That will give you an idea of if you want leveling help.
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Old 03-03-2016, 01:33 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by papatioman View Post
I agree with everything said here so far. I have already been to the Ford dealership about trading my F150 for a F250. They want $20,000.00 extra for a same year, same mileage trade......just paid mine off! Will do some reading like you all said.....thanks for the great help & tips!
No need to buy brand new. See if you can find a good used F-250 and sell your F-150 privately for a lot more return than a trade-in.

Do some research here on the forum to figure out what configuration of F-250 you need before you go shopping.
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Old 03-03-2016, 01:38 PM   #23
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I also tow a 36' TT and I do it with an f250, so I couldn't imagine having to pull that thing with just an f150, not for the power aspect but stability issues. I felt so unstable at first in a SD that I had to add air bags to the rear to level out the truck and it made a dramatic difference in the stability of the truck itself. I have the blue ox sway pro and no matter what anyone tells you, unless you have a propride or Hensley, you will have some movement with a 36' box behind you, from things like trucks, winds, or if the tires on your TT are trying to settle into grooves in the road....just make sure your hitch is up to the task of getting her back in line quickly, and you do the necessary work of correctly loading your trailer so you have proper tongue weight.
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Old 03-03-2016, 01:40 PM   #24
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My $.02.

That is a lot of trailer for a 1/2 ton truck with a 145" wheelbase.

But, if within all weight ratings (GVWR, GCWR, axles weights, and hitch rating) with the family loaded up then here are some things to consider:

That particular model coming from the factory has a very light tongue weight compared to the weight of the trailer (9%). You really need to load the trailer front heavy, and avoid any fluids in the waste tanks (behind the axles). An ideal tongue weight would be over 12% of the total trailer weight, which if that is obtained with a 10,000 lb trailer, would be 1200 lbs.

A property setup WDH with integrated sway control and 1200 lb. bars (or maybe even 1400 lb bars). The E2 only has 2 points of sway control, where the Equal-i-zer has 4 points. Better yet would be a Hensley or Propride hitch.

Looking at the picture, I would guess that there is not enough weight being put back on the steer axle....the truck is really sagging in the back. A trip to the scales is needed, both to see if enough weight is being transferred back to the steer axle, and to make sure none of the truck weights are being exceeded. Refer to other threads about how to properly do the 3 weigh-ins needed............all with the family and camping gear loaded in the same position every trip across the scales. I would be guessing that with the family (indicated by the bunkhouse) loaded up, and ~1200 lbs. of hitch, that many of the truck weight ratings will be exceeded.
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Old 03-03-2016, 01:57 PM   #25
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Here are the specs for the TT & TV:

TT:

Hitch Weight: 720lbs
Ship Weight: 7,891lbs
GVWR: 10,880lbs

TV:

Max. Loaded Trailer Weight: 9,800lbs
Max. Tongue load w/ WDH: 1,130lbs
Max. Trailer Weight w/ WDH: 11,300lbs.

I have an Fastaway E2 that has sway control built in and I travel with empty tanks. Trailer loaded for camping was at approx. 8,200lbs with nothing loaded at the rear past the axles.
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Old 03-03-2016, 02:28 PM   #26
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We have a 2011 F150 3.5 eb 6.5 bed max tow with LTD tires, a 2012 Freedom Express 310BHDS loaded for camping about 8500 lbs 12000 lb wdh my truck handles this well .If you're truck isn't a max tow with LT tires you probably don't have enough truck for your tt
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Old 03-03-2016, 03:45 PM   #27
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I am pulling a 34 foot cherokee with my 6.2L 1500 Silverado HD. I have air bags, equalizer 10k wd hitch, and proper tires. I have absolutely no problems. No white knuckles, no close calls, and I have driven easy coast to West coast, in heavy cross winds, tail winds and extreme hot weather. No issues. Just work to get your set up, right. You should add air bags as the springs are definitely soft. I really believe in my equalizer hitch and check your the rating on the TV. You'll be fine.
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Old 03-03-2016, 04:10 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by papatioman View Post

TV:

Max. Loaded Trailer Weight: 9,800lbs
Max. Tongue load w/ WDH: 1,130lbs
Max. Trailer Weight w/ WDH: 11,300lbs.
Those numbers sound like tha absolute max IF the f150 has the Max Tow Package AND the HD Payload package, which is not that common.

What's your driver's door sticker say is the truck's payload capacity?
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Old 03-03-2016, 04:50 PM   #29
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For an F-150, before the new aluminum body models, GVWR was around 7200# with or without the max. tow package. The max. tow pkg. gives you an upgraded hitch, trans. cooler, large towing mirrors and maybe a few other upgrades.

With the HD Payload package, the GVWR is over 8000# due to beefier frame, suspension, axles, wheels and LT tires.
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Old 03-03-2016, 05:26 PM   #30
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For now, increasing the P rated tires to the max allowable pressure when towing helps. It does make a difference. Does not replace LT tires by any means.
I will say use extreme caution under hard heavy braking. The TT will push down on back of truck causing front axle to become lighter. You will lose some braking and steering input. That's why I now have F250. It doesn't have to be diesel, thinking that's why dealer asking $20,000 more.
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