Question about Chevy 2500 Integrated Trailer Brake Controller

[zippersbs]

I don't know if some of you are aware of this or not, but GM has a recall on these Integrated Brake Systems for numerous makes & models under Bulletin # 14515B issued in January 2015. The dealers are picking & choosing though on which models, who's covered & what's covered though, at least they are in my area here around the Motor City. If you get a fault that comes up on your message system "Service Trailer Brakes Soon" you might have 1 of these faulty systems. I have 2010 Silverado 1500 LTZ, which according to this recall bulletin is suppose to be 1 of the recalled vehicles for this problem. But according to the dealerships that I have been to it is not, unless I get a letter from GM. If I don't get a letter I have to pay for this fix out of my pocket & the fix is, complete replacement of the wiring harness from dash to the rear of vehicle, among other things is what the mechanic told me at the dealership. OR, you can put an aftermarket brake control & bypass their unit all together. What is real scary about GM's IBS is, if this fault comes up while you are driving, you have NO trailer brakes & this fault can happen if a light bulb shorts out. So if you're going down Donner Pass & this fault comes across your dash, unless you are really experienced & know what to do, your screwed. I bypassed mine & sent GM an email & told them that's about the stupidest idea they have ever come up with, why would they NOT have a back up? For some reason I'm still waiting on a response & believe me you have NO trailer brakes, it happened to me last summer heading north in Michigan. That fault came across my dash & I had NO trailer brakes & I had to pull my 7000 pound TT with no brakes. Just thought I'd pass that on, don't depend on that IBS.

[nomad297]

Originally Posted by thebrakeman

I'm curious about these integrated controllers. If you have the means to make an adjustment (1-10, 1-12, whatever), then it's obviously not fully-automatic. What is the process for choosing the correct setting.


Contrary to what some above may believe, modern aftermarket controllers are not the time-delay relics that our grandfathers used. They are proportional, mostly based on reading actual acceleration. Integrated controllers have the benefit of adding data from pressure and other sensors. But in all cases, it seems there should be an expectation to calibrate the trailer to the truck, before enjoying the drive.


For my Tekonsha Prodigy, you warm up the brakes, then increase the max voltage setting until you are able to lock the brakes with a manual apply. Then you back off just a bit until you can no longer lock the brakes. This ensure proportional braking, all the way up to the MAX setting in a panic stop situation, but always avoiding trailer brake lockup that could allow the trailer to come around the tow vehicle.


I would think the integrated controllers would have a similar setup procedure (in the vehicle owner's manual, or some tow package appendix). If not...how do you know what setting to use?


PS - I'm not getting into a debate over aftermarket vs integrated. Been there, done that. I'm just wanting to learn about the integrated controller setup process. And perhaps it's different from OEM to OEM.

A GREAT question!!

Bruce

[Mr. Dan]

Originally Posted by jtesta1

Did you engage trailer control by pushing the button on the end of the shift lever. Just plugging in the trailer will light up the dash trailer light but you have to activate with the button.

That's not the way it works on my 2014 GMC or the OP's 2015 Chevy Silverado. The button on the end of the shift lever activates Tow/Hall transmission operation, not the integrated brake controller.

[aceinspp]

Originally Posted by Mr. Dan

That's not the way it works on my 2014 GMC or the OP's 2015 Chevy Silverado. The button on the end of the shift lever activates Tow/Hall transmission operation, not the integrated brake controller.

X 2 Later RJD

[rockfordroo]

Originally Posted by thebrakeman

I'm curious about these integrated controllers. If you have the means to make an adjustment (1-10, 1-12, whatever), then it's obviously not fully-automatic. What is the process for choosing the correct setting.

I didn't see that anyone answered your question: The process is pretty much the same as for a Prodigy.

From my 2016 Silverado Owners Manual:

Trailer Gain Adjustment Procedure

Trailer Gain should be set for a specific trailering condition and must
be adjusted anytime vehicle loading, trailer loading, or road surface
conditions change.

Warning
Trailer brakes that are over-gained or under-gained may
not stop the vehicle and the trailer as intended and can result in a
crash. Always follow the instructions to set the Trailer Gain
for the proper trailer stopping performance.

Use the following to adjust Trailer Gain for each towing condition:

1. Drive the vehicle with the trailer attached on a level road
surface representative of the towing condition and free of
traffic at about 32 to 40 km/h (20 to 25 mph) and fully apply
the Manual Trailer Brake Apply Lever.

Adjusting Trailer Gain at speeds lower than 32 to
40 km/h (20 to 25 mph) may result in an incorrect gain
setting.

2. Adjust the Trailer Gain, using the Trailer Gain Adjustment
Buttons, to just below the point of trailer wheel lock-up,
indicated by trailer wheel squeal or tire smoke when a
trailer wheel locks.

Trailer wheel lock-up may not occur if towing a heavily loaded
trailer. In this case, adjust the Trailer Gain to the highest
allowable setting for the towing condition.

3. Readjust Trailer Gain anytime vehicle loading, trailer loading,
or road surface conditions change or if trailer wheel
lock-up is noticed at any time while towing.