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Old 03-27-2016, 03:21 PM   #21
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I also have a Chevy 2500 HD ( 2015 ). Although it is a very tight fit, I am able to get my safety chains thru the holes on the receiver. Is this something new on a 2016 model?

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Old 03-27-2016, 03:24 PM   #22
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I think it really depends on the chains. Mine would not fit with the style S hook they used. Other chains go right on.

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Old 03-27-2016, 03:42 PM   #23
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Not sure why you are looking at such high capacity links but here is a link to class 5 hitch safety chains on the Reese Hitch website. It explains the purpose of safety chains and will allow you to buy what is appropriate from them.
Reese - Safety Chains
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Old 03-27-2016, 04:09 PM   #24
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I told my neighbor kid one day that was using his dads trailer that the safety chains weren`t hooked up. He said I don`t care its not my trailer. I said explain that to the cop and see how that goes for you. Kids anyway.
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Old 03-27-2016, 04:57 PM   #25
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If memory serves, safety chains are required, by law, in probably every state. I had the same problem and the fix for me was to go to the local logging supply and get two clevis's used for hooking cables to yarders. They are very strong and are easy to use. Probably find them in the internet.
They just stay on the truck and make hooking up easy.
I also purchased a larger stinger for the truck because I did not like how the adapter rattles. I also made a squared off "Ubolt" arrangement that fits the larger stinger and silences any rattle of that. The Ubolt portion goes over the stinger and the flat plate on the bottom goes underneath the hitch on the truck, locking the stinger in place and stopping any apparent looseness or rattles.
With an Andersen hitch, it is quick to hook up and since I leave the stinger on once away from home, it is not a lot of bother to put the Ubolt bracket on and off once each trip.

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Old 03-27-2016, 05:26 PM   #26
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Thanks everyone for the replies. While bothersome, it is sort of nice to know I am not a complete duffus and not understanding my new hitch. I would never tow without the chains attached. I have a tale to tell about why I never stay behind a towed trailer, boat, or semi when I am on the motorcycle. And as to why I am looking to go with high capacity hooks/attachments is I want to at the very minimum meet the max weight of our TT with the safety chains. I will have to spend some time shopping for what will work for us.
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Old 03-27-2016, 06:27 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by Silverado2500HD View Post
I had the same problem with my 2500HD. I bought 2 quick links from Home Depot.
Lehigh 3500 lb. x 3/8 in. x 3-1/4 in. Stainless Steel Quick Link-7443S-6 - The Home Depot

Same here; you'll be fine with the links.
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Old 03-27-2016, 06:31 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by PSU Turf View Post
This 3/8" hook will just fit on the truck's receiver. I added one link of chain to the hook for the safety chains from the trailer to hook on.
I disposed of the spring clip. Never had them years ago and no need for them now. Later RJD
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Old 03-27-2016, 06:35 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by youroo View Post
Real Bad way to think,"Your Truck or Someones LIFE" ? Youroo!!
Because of that, my chains are always attached. Chevy screwed up the attachment method by making the Class IV hitch that they did, so folks are putting 3500 lb rated add-ons on there to have something to attach to. The problem is that Chevy didn't consider the design of the hook most trailer chains use.

My point, apparently badly made, was that I don't think the chains would do much to salvage whatever trailer I'm towing should they be retained while the hitch broke..........and that I also have a hard time imagining the hitch/ball breaking but the chains not breaking, though of course it's possible. I wasn't suggesting not using them or harming anything I share the road with. When I said "not a good idea to start with" I was referring only to my equipment........and should have said so.

I never made any comparison to 'my equipment vs. someone's life'.....nor would I.
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Old 03-27-2016, 07:40 PM   #30
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DOT requirement for safety chains:

Safety Chains
Safety chains are a requirement and should be crossed under the tongue of the trailer so that the tongue will not drop to the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Always leave enough slack so you can turn. Never allow the safety chains to drag on the ground and never attach the safety chains to the bumper.

Trailer Classification: Safety Chain Breaking Force-Minimum

Class 1: 2000 lbs (8.9 kN)
Class 2: 3500 lbs (15.6 kN)
Class 3: 5000 lbs (22.2 kN)
Class 4: The strength rating of each length of safety chain or its equivalent and its attachments shall be equal to or exceed in minimum breaking force the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) of the trailer.


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