Question after CAT scale results

[VernDiesel]

------unload load max
steer 3180 2980 3375
drive 2320 3700 3800
total ------ 6680
TT -------- 6180
CVW ---- 12860

While your numbers are not at all hateful you have left a lot of stability, wind from semi etc, emergency swerve around, even stopping power on the table so to speak. All of those tied to the first priority.. replacing the unloaded steer weight. Solid easily feel-able and measurable on a test track improvements can be concretely found by adjusting WDH and TV & TT weight distribution.

Ideally you should transfer at least 200 pounds off your drive back onto your steer and you should also see another 20 pounds come off your drive back onto your TT in doing so. It should look like this ish;

steer 3180
drive 3480
total- 6660
TT--- 6200
CVW 12860

Now you have full braking traction/power near max-ish stability (better than the avg bub in HD that can't bother with a WDH for his family's safety) And with 460 pounds more on the truck axles than the TT axles plus a proper union no tale going to wag that dog. In fact room for more stuff that when again set up properly will make the combined rig more stable to a point. (CVWR)

If your wife doesn't mind driving the HD and you got the coin and want one by all means this is not a socialist country buy what you want. Just don't think you need to justify the purchase by saying your existing truck isn't up to the job. It set by Cat scale results concretely is.

[FR27]

Originally Posted by VernDiesel

------unload load max
steer 3180 2980 3375
drive 2320 3700 3800
total ------ 6680
TT -------- 6180
CVW ---- 12860

While your numbers are not at all hateful you have left a lot of stability, wind from semi etc, emergency swerve around, even stopping power on the table so to speak. All of those tied to the first priority.. replacing the unloaded steer weight. Solid easily feel-able and measurable on a test track improvements can be concretely found by adjusting WDH and TV & TT weight distribution.

Ideally you should transfer at least 200 pounds off your drive back onto your steer and you should also see another 20 pounds come off your drive back onto your TT in doing so. It should look like this ish;

steer 3180
drive 3480
total- 6660
TT--- 6200
CVW 12860

Now you have full braking traction/power near max-ish stability (better than the avg bub in HD that can't bother with a WDH for his family's safety) And with 460 pounds more on the truck axles than the TT axles plus a proper union no tale going to wag that dog. In fact room for more stuff that when again set up properly will make the combined rig more stable to a point. (CVWR)

If your wife doesn't mind driving the HD and you got the coin and want one by all means this is not a socialist country buy what you want. Just don't think you need to justify the purchase by saying your existing truck isn't up to the job. It set by Cat scale results concretely is.

Thanks for the input. I agree with your numbers. My only concern is the vehicle GVWR of 7000#. I'm close, and I did not have the truck or the camper loaded like I normally do since I just picked it up and added a few things to get to the camp site. Plus, I want to be able to feel at ease when traveling out of state on open roads and big hills, so I bought my self an F250 yesterday. Here are the specs:

2018 Ford F250 Lariat 6.2L Gas
Supercrew
4x4
Payload 3100

[VernDiesel]

Well I hope you have great luck with the HD. But since you mentioned GVWR. Just fwiw I sometimes distribute weight to be above my GVWR when I could set it up to be below. (Same total weight) Good balance and more weight on the truck than the trailer makes sure the truck more easily controls the trailer. I’m less interested in Mfgs warranty than I am having the safest most stable setup.

I share this because some people think being a little above GVWR makes them unsafe but physics wise replacing steer weight, keeping drive axle weight under rating, balance between the axles, TW percentage, even CVW all mean a lot more toward the rig stability & safety for your family.

Last don’t forget just because you bought an HD doesn’t mean you shouldn’t do exactly the same thing in taking it to the scales & setting your rig up for the safety of your family only the numbers change. Confidence & feeling at ease comes with time behind the wheel & proper set up in either truck although certainly the heavier stiffer HD gives you more margin for error. Power wise the 3.5 is hard beat unless you bought the diesel. Happy camping!

[Cypressloser]

Originally Posted by FR27

I have a question for those that have more experience than I when it comes to CAT scale results. I have money down to hold an F250 after my first tow in our new TT with my F150. Before I sign the paperwork for the F250 I want to make sure I'm reading the numbers right. I feel my F150 is close to its limits. What do you think? Thanks!

Current TV: 2015 Ford F150 Supercrew short box with 3.5 ecoboost
GVWR 7000#
Payload 1900#
Front GAWR 3375#
Rear CAWR 3800#

Current TT: 2018 FR Rockwood 2706ws
GVWR 8073#
Payload 1486#
Length 32'10"

WDH: Equalizer with 12000# bars.

CAT results of TV loaded, no TT attached 5746#
CAT results with TT attached to TV and WDH in place:
Steer axle 2980#
Drive axle 3700#
Trailer axle 6180#
Gross weight 12860#

The 1900 lbs payload rating is not relevant, important is that you don't exceed the FAWR, RAWR and GVWR of the truck, the same goes for the trailer. I am not personally aware of jurisdictions that legally limit the GCWR to the manufacturers numbers, but don't ignore it either.



No need to reweigh if the trailer is level, the weight is distributed properly and the trailer handles properly.
However, you are already only 100 lbs under the max. RAWR and 320 lbs under the GVWR of the truck, plus towing a 20' long trailer is not the same as towing an almost 33' trailer - not even close.

IMO, you are doing the right thing by considering to upgrade to a 250.

[VernDiesel]

Cypressloser read the last two posts you will see he already bought it. As far as the last setup 100 pound RAWR & 320 GVWR. Adjustments in hitch & where it is loaded could easily let him put another 1,000 pounds into the mix without being over on any of the Mfg specs.

[Lawrosa]

You did not get all the weights. May be a waste of money for the 250...

Use towing planner next time and get all the weights.

Actual Weights - Travel Trailer/Bumper Pull Weights from CAT Scales - Towing Planner

Your payload may be 1905 but you go by the axle ratings of the truck. Gived you a bit more.

Trouble is you are 200lbs light on the front with WD hooked up. You can do better.

3180-2980=200

Next is the rear... OH BOY.. 3700 lbs from 2320... Again WD hitch not set up correct.

Thats 1380 lbs. No wonder you think you need bigger truck..

Properly set up you can get weight back up front, and transfer some back to the trailer...

Properly set up I bet your have 500-700 lbs payload left instead of the 320 you have now..

Just my opinion... Its your money!!!