Question: F150 5.0L Engine Oil

[Lins]

Originally Posted by MR.M

Guess it's hard for you to follow along on a thread . you seem to get focused on one thing missing the big picture. i understand you probably have nothing better to do then post on forums . but lets break this down so maybe you can catch up .
OP asked if going to a thicker oil would be better when towing etc . instead of the thin 5w20 . the answer is yes under high loads and heat a 10/30 will perform better . under towing and high heat a 5w20 will break down faster and form you got it sludge . unless your starting your truck in below -10 and driving in cold environments a 10/30 is fine . the manufactures use the thinner oil for mpg .

Now you don't have to agree which i know you won't i can tell your one that needs to be right about everything in your own eyes . i'm sure it makes you feel important . have a good day . now i've been messaged about beating a horse to death i assume you have not . but that normal in forums like this

Where are you getting this idea of sludge? Sorry, oils these days don't turn into sludge unless there's something else going on.

[MR.M]

Originally Posted by DieselDrax

Please check your attitude and facts. So far you have done nothing except provide your opinion (since you have no factual references to back them up) and be condescending and rude to anyone that doesn't agree with your opinion, which flies in the face of years of proof that following the manufacturers' recommendations results in long engine life and 5w-20 does not result in sludge, nor does 5w30, and 5w20 is not too thin if that is the oil approved by the engineers (and was used by some, such as myself, when running their car at the track and never had any issues with wear, sludge, oil consumption, or anything else related to oil or lubrication even though the engines were run at WOT for long periods of time with oil temps up to 275F).

If you want to keep repeating yourself and try to imply that everyone else is clueless then that's fine, but don't expect to get very far here.

So you only change the oil in your race car every 5000 miles on the track ? WOW! Guess i was wrong if you can run a 5w20 in a race engine for 5000 miles and not have sludge i am way off base here . the studies i read yrs back stated otherwise but i guess there outdated studies

[DieselDrax]

Originally Posted by MR.M

So you only change the oil in your race car every 5000 miles on the track ? WOW! Guess i was wrong if you can run a 5w20 in a race engine for 5000 miles and not have sludge i am way off base here . the studies i read yrs back stated otherwise but i guess there outdated studies

Yes, they are outdated by a long shot. 500-750 track miles and ~5,000 street miles on each oil change. Not a single oil problem, sludge or otherwise.

Wife's SUV goes ~8,000 miles between oil changes and it only gets 0w-20 or 5w-20, currently has about 106,000 miles on it and the engine runs like new, no oil consumption, internals are still clean with no oil sludge or coking in the valve covers.

Daughter's SUV has 137k miles and gets 5w-30, same deal. Only oil-related problem is the front crank seal is seeping but not enough to need to top off the oil between 6,000-mile oil change intervals.

Plus the countless others here on the forums that have run nothing but the recommended oil (5w-20, 5w-30, etc) for many years and have no problems.

Oil has come a long way in the past 20+ years, if you're basing things on what was seen 20+ years ago it simply doesn't apply anymore and hasn't for a long time.

[mopwr4me2003]

The only sludge issue I seen was in the old Toyota SR-5 engines back in the 90’s but that was a motor issue not a oil issue. I did work on a Hyundai Santa Fe that did sludge up but the owner went 35,000 + miles without a oil change. That ended up costing her a new engine cause it got so hot that it snapped the intake cam. But this is the only time I saw something this bad in 20 years of being a auto mechanic. But like what has been beaten to death is the fact that there are 2 people that keep going back and forth and I think they have lost the main topic of the OP. Your opinions are your own and everyone is entitled to that. I think it’s time to move on I’m pretty sure the OP has and he has made his choice by now of what he wants to do. Time to move on. [emoji106]

[mike.t]

[mopwr4me2003]

Originally Posted by mike.t

[emoji106][emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]

[Stovebolt]

Originally Posted by MR.M

Guess it's hard for you to follow along on a thread . you seem to get focused on one thing missing the big picture. i understand you probably have nothing better to do then post on forums . but lets break this down so maybe you can catch up .
OP asked if going to a thicker oil would be better when towing etc . instead of the thin 5w20 . the answer is yes under high loads and heat a 10/30 will perform better . under towing and high heat a 5w20 will break down faster and form you got it sludge . unless your starting your truck in below -10 and driving in cold environments a 10/30 is fine . the manufactures use the thinner oil for mpg .

Now you don't have to agree which i know you won't i can tell your one that needs to be right about everything in your own eyes . i'm sure it makes you feel important . have a good day . now i've been messaged about beating a horse to death i assume you have not . but that normal in forums like this

Thanks for informing all of us that you know everything about oil and the rest of us who have been using oil all our lives know nothing at all. This horse has been beaten to death, let's move on.

[MR.M]

Originally Posted by DieselDrax

Yes, they are outdated by a long shot. 500-750 track miles and ~5,000 street miles on each oil change. Not a single oil problem, sludge or otherwise.

Wife's SUV goes ~8,000 miles between oil changes and it only gets 0w-20 or 5w-20, currently has about 106,000 miles on it and the engine runs like new, no oil consumption, internals are still clean with no oil sludge or coking in the valve covers.

Daughter's SUV has 137k miles and gets 5w-30, same deal. Only oil-related problem is the front crank seal is seeping but not enough to need to top off the oil between 6,000-mile oil change intervals.

Plus the countless others here on the forums that have run nothing but the recommended oil (5w-20, 5w-30, etc) for many years and have no problems.

Oil has come a long way in the past 20+ years, if you're basing things on what was seen 20+ years ago it simply doesn't apply anymore and hasn't for a long time.

20+ is a stretch read the stuides 10 yrs ago . we are also talking tow , not every day driver , max engine load not grocery getter . let the oil stay in your race car for 5000 miles or even 3000 while at wot and then let me know how it all looks after that . my truck has 0ver 175000 always used 10/30 not the 5 recommended no issues , same with truck before 225,000 miles , or blazer before that 235,000 . none ever burned oil or were issues caused by not using the 5w . all these were sold and still running great . so the argument that running a higher wt oil will ruin the engine is a myth . if it calls for 5w20 and you use a 10w30 of course not in -20 temps and your towing and loading the engine 10w30 will be fine if not better then the 5w20 .

[JoelMarc]

Originally Posted by Mad Cow

Something they didn’t tell you when you got your certificate. If Ford REQUIRES a particular oil, by law they have to provide it free of charge to the owner. Else, all they can do is recommend a particular oil. Any SN is the add pack specification by API. SN come in both 20 weight and 30 weight varieties.

While they can not require a specific brand they can require the peticular viscosity, synthetic, synthetic blend, & API rating. That is a fact and my credentials have nothing to do with it. I know the law well and you obviously have been misinformed.