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Old 07-28-2019, 04:39 PM   #1
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Receiver Extension

Hey All.... I was just in a U-Haul store and I saw a 2" receiver extension (looks like about 7" extension). With my Roo hooked up to my F150 I can't lower the tail gate due to the electric jack head.


Has anyone tried using one? Can you use one with a WDH? If so, does it effect the WDH setup/ride/handling? Any other negatives?



Thanks!
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Old 07-28-2019, 05:14 PM   #2
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longer arm further away from bumper means larger effect of tounge weight. I wouldn't tow like that. lower the tail gate once you are unhooked.
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Old 07-28-2019, 07:18 PM   #3
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I ran into the same with my Chevy 2500 hooked to our Hemisphere. What I did was unbolted the jack, rotated it 45 degrees to the next hole. 2 of the 3 holes lined up for the bolts, I just drilled a new 3rd hole in the jack.
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Old 07-28-2019, 07:34 PM   #4
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The only thing I would consider using an extension with, is a 400 lb utility trailer and locally at that.

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Old 07-28-2019, 07:50 PM   #5
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Rotate the jack. I just drilled new holes and rotated mine 90 degrees. With some brands all you need to do is remove two screws, rotate the head and put the screws back in (not my Husky unfortunately).
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Old 07-28-2019, 08:35 PM   #6
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NO to using extension... way too long

rotate the electric jack head...

You may also me able to purchase a longer SHANK... the part that inserts into the receiver if you only need an inch or so... look on etrailer dot com that sells shanks in many different sizes and lengths, then either transfer your ball or purchase a new one... you may also be able to drill a new hole in your original shank, but I would certainly employ a machine shop to do that work, as usually the shank is a solid piece of steel 2 inches thick
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Old 07-28-2019, 09:25 PM   #7
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NOTE: copied from etrailer.

One thing to note when using a hitch extender like the Hidden Hitch, # 80307, is that the the tongue weight and towing capacity of your trailer hitch will be reduced by 50 percent due to the increased leverage that is placed on your trailer hitch from your trailer.
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Old 07-28-2019, 10:10 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rsdata View Post
NO to using extension... way too long



rotate the electric jack head...



You may also me able to purchase a longer SHANK... the part that inserts into the receiver if you only need an inch or so... look on etrailer dot com that sells shanks in many different sizes and lengths, then either transfer your ball or purchase a new one... you may also be able to drill a new hole in your original shank, but I would certainly employ a machine shop to do that work, as usually the shank is a solid piece of steel 2 inches thick
Agree with you. Longer shanks are available and a better option than using an extension.

Curt makes a bunch of them. I bought one on Amazon previously.
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Old 07-28-2019, 10:15 PM   #9
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Here's a 14" one from Curt.

https://www.curtmfg.com/part/17103

Probably too long but this should show you that they're out there.

Amazon had the best price when I bought one years ago.
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Old 07-29-2019, 12:13 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheWolfPaq82 View Post
NOTE: copied from etrailer.

One thing to note when using a hitch extender like the Hidden Hitch, # 80307, is that the the tongue weight and towing capacity of your trailer hitch will be reduced by 50 percent due to the increased leverage that is placed on your trailer hitch from your trailer.
THIS^^^^^^
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Old 07-30-2019, 11:35 AM   #11
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Receiver Extension

...Thanks for all the replies. Looks like that is a no go. I'll look into rotating the jack. But if I remember correctly 2 of the bolts are right on the edge of the plate.
Cheers!
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Old 07-30-2019, 12:29 PM   #12
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I'd have to do math, but the 50% reduction smells of BS to me. Especially with a WD hitch.

Regardless, I'd lean more towards this:
https://www.etrailer.com/Hitch-Adapt...ophy/HR26.html

I bought steel to extend mine a few inches. 2" solid square and 2.5" square tubing to both reinforce the extension and eliminate the annoying sleeve in my class IV (or class V, I forget) receiver. $35 for enough to do 4+ hitches....
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Old 07-30-2019, 12:45 PM   #13
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I'd have to do math, but the 50% reduction smells of BS to me. Especially with a WD hitch.

Regardless, I'd lean more towards this:
https://www.etrailer.com/Hitch-Adapt...ophy/HR26.html

I bought steel to extend mine a few inches. 2" solid square and 2.5" square tubing to both reinforce the extension and eliminate the annoying sleeve in my class IV (or class V, I forget) receiver. $35 for enough to do 4+ hitches....
NOTE: From "etrailer" website.

Video Transcript for Brophy Hitch Reducer and Extender Review
Today we're going to be taking a look at the Brophy hitch reducer and extender, two and a half inch to two inch trailer hitch, part number HR26. With this product not only do you get a reducer, but you also get an extender. It's perfect for situations such as this where we can't drop our tailgate down all the way because our jack is getting in the way. Now with it installed as you can see, zero problems. This can also work out great if you need a little more clearance for your bike racks or cargo carriers. It's made out of a sturdy steel construction with a black powder coat finish, so it's going to resist rust and corrosion.
It's going to allow you to adapt your two and a half inch by two and a half inch receiver to your two inch by two inch accessories, while giving you an extension of six inches pin hole to pin hole. It's going to have a maximum gross trailer weight of 5,000 pounds and have a maximum gross trailer weight when used with a weight distribution of 10,000 pounds. It's going to have a maximum tongue weight of 500 pounds, and a maximum tongue weight when used with a weight distribution of 1,000 pounds. Brophy does know that when using this product it's going to reduce your hitch capacity by one-third, so keep that in mind when towing. To get this installed you're going to need two hitch bending clips. What we'll do is we'll line up our first holes. Make sure that the end with the collar is obviously going to be sticking out this way.
Take our first pin and clip, slide that through. Then we can take our accessory for our bowl mount as you see here, slide it in, line up our second set of hitch pin holes. Then take our second hitch pin clip and put that in place. If you need pins and clips, they're available on our website at part number PC3. That's going to complete our look at the Brophy hitch reducer and extender, two and a half inch to two inch trailer hitch, part number HR26..
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Old 07-30-2019, 12:56 PM   #14
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I purchased a longer shank from Equalizer and it allowed my tailgate to open. They had no concerns with reduced capacities. My set up didn't even need adjusted. I'd look at getting a longer shank and moving your hitch head.

Which hitch do you have?
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Old 07-30-2019, 01:50 PM   #15
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WDH

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Originally Posted by sugarray40 View Post
I purchased a longer shank from Equalizer and it allowed my tailgate to open. They had no concerns with reduced capacities. My set up didn't even need adjusted. I'd look at getting a longer shank and moving your hitch head.

Which hitch do you have?



I have Equalizer 4pt.
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Old 07-30-2019, 02:15 PM   #16
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I put the correct shank on mine from the get-go. Then set up the WDH accordingly. Tailgate opens fine. No need to mess with the jack. No muss, no fuss.
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Old 07-30-2019, 02:32 PM   #17
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I have Equalizer 4pt.
That's what I had as well. I purchased mine from Amazon actually.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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