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Old 11-04-2014, 09:52 PM   #11
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When you say on 3rd link, is that 2 loose or 3 links under load? You do not want less than 4 links under load as the bars can bind. At 4 links under load, an adjustment in the tilt becomes required. We had the reese dual cam on our old tt, it is a pain to dial in but once correct it is a great hitch.

The absolute best way to check your setup is to go weigh it at a catscale. You will want to make 3 passes (usually $9-12 for first pass, $1-3 for each additional weigh in a 24 hr period). Do this with truck and trailer loaded, ready to camp with all passengers, pets, gear and a full tank of fuel. First weigh is just truck, no trailer. Front axle on scale pad 1, rear axle on scale pad 2. Second weigh is truck with tt no wdh. Truck as in first weigh, tt on scale pad 3. The difference in the truck Wright is your tongue weight. The difference in the total ticket weight is your trailer weight. Third weigh is truck with tt and wdh. Look at the truck weights, what happened to Your axle weights? The idea of a properly adjusted wdh is to bring the front axle as close to unloaded weight as possible without going heavier. You can adjust by wheel well measurements but I have found better results doing the weight method.


Also look at your scale weights to make sure you are within truck specs. The first weigh ticket will be used to do this. Subtract the total truck weight from the trucks gcwr to see your adjusted towing capacity. Subtract the total truck weight from the trucks gvwr to get your available payload. Your tongue weight has to be factored into your payload. Go back and look at your third weigh (with wdh). Is your truck under gvwr and are you under gcwr? Are you under max RAWR?



On edit- I see you are in hickory. There is a scale at the wilcohess in Conover (exit 133 of 40) and one at the country Mart in maiden (321 and startown rd)
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Old 11-05-2014, 08:44 AM   #12
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Awesome. I get gas at that Wilco all the time. I'll take a look at the scale next time i'm in there.
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Old 11-05-2014, 12:49 PM   #13
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prob need to go with towing shocks like kyb mono max in the rear and i would do the front too. you prob don't have the 10 ply ( e range) tires either. both of those will reduce the bounce. then increase tension on load leveler.
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Old 11-10-2014, 10:25 AM   #14
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We had a lot of bounce on a similar trailer/hitch setup. LT tires solved the problem.
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Old 11-12-2014, 12:55 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by ncbrit View Post
I have a Sierra SLT, towing a 7600lb trailer with the Reese dual cam hitch. The truck and camper sit level, but I get what I feel is excessive bounce (porpoising). Is it a matter of adjusting the hitch to reduce bounce? The way the dealer set it up has me using the third chain link. If I move up to the next link, I assume that it will put more tension on the sprung bars. I can move one link without having to adjust the length of the cams. Is that the right thing to do?
Load range E LT tires will help, but the shocks on the new GM trucks are fairly soft too(they really ride well though). Had the same problem with my equipment trailer and the shop truck, so I went to heavy duty coil over shocks and they helped a lot with bouncing, but the empty ride went to hell.
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Old 11-15-2014, 10:40 AM   #16
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I had a Reese dual cam hitch. It's not the hitch but rather how much weight you are distributing. I had to play with it and found depending on how much weight I had in the front of the trailer determined how many chain links I left exposed on the distribution arms. Too many and I would get reciprocate bounce from the truck to the trailer.
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Old 11-16-2014, 08:12 PM   #17
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The WDH should be adjusted so you are on the 5th link, giving you the ability to go to the 4th link if your camper gets loaded up a big trip. I've done a lot of reading up on adjusting the Reese Dual Cam and the claim is it works best when adjusted like that. Plan on making the adjustment to mine in the spring.
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Old 11-17-2014, 09:03 AM   #18
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OldCoot, I got an email saying you replied on this thread, but I don't see it here... odd.
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Old 11-17-2014, 10:57 AM   #19
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the all terrain suspension is different than the E85 (i think that's the code) for the towing suspenstion. I know the shocks differ, not sure what else.

Second, Reese says 4 or 5 links on the chain NEVER fewer. 3 is wrong. And the bar needs to be parallel the trailer frame when all hooked up and sitting level. You can tilt the ball mount to 'add links', but maybe you need a heavier bar.

We moved from an expedition to the silverado (4 door short bed 1500) and have no more porpoising...two things changed - the WB of the TV and how 'hard' I had to crank the bars to get things level - since the leverage changed as the WB got 24" longer.

So I"m thinking your bars/setup is wrong.
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Old 11-17-2014, 11:06 AM   #20
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OldCoot, I got an email saying you replied on this thread, but I don't see it here... odd.
My comment was for a regular Reese Trunion WDH, really not pertinent to the dual cam. We always tilted the head until the bars were level when hooked up and had 3 links loose. We used dual friction sway bars.
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