Reese Dual Cam HP self tapping screws stripped. Fixed.

[boubou]

[IMG]
tac weld on cam bracket by boubou1, on Flickr[/IMG]
[IMG]
800 lbs Trunion bar by boubou1, on Flickr[/IMG]
[IMG]
Reese Dual Cam HP by boubou1, on Flickr[/IMG]
I tried to reply to a thread I started last fall but it wouldn't let me so here's the story.
I purchased the Reese Dual Cam HP WD/Anti sway for the local auto/truck add on type of shop with install trusting they knew what they were doing. After a few hours of install attempt, I started feeling a little off about their knowledge of the set up but they guys and owner where pretty nice and genuine in their effort and willingness to make it right. The set up was pretty good in the WD part but the trunion bars where a little off the saddle.
After 2 trips, I noticed that one of the cam bracket was stripped. I proceeded to check the torque on them all and they were all stripped. I think the guy probably overdid it when installing and all the self tapping screws got stripped. They were more than willing to fix it for me but their repair job would be to make bigger holes.
I've read enough about Reese DC self tapping screws to know that a lot of them fail so I was not keen in going that way.
I decided to go to my favorite local auto repair shop (don't know why I didn't think of going there in the first place)
The guy had a TT for several years and is familiar with Reese.
We discussed options:
a) new self tapping screws and loctite
b) nutserts
c) tac weld

I picked tac weld (even tho I read a few comments against it) because I will not trade this TT up or down and when I sell it, the Reese will go with it.
It still can be ground off if needed to be removed and...
I just read about this guy who had the same WD system installed on his Jayco and the shop stripped the nuts, then proceeded with the bolt through method and squeezed the frame in. now what?

The shop also re-adjusted the cam arms into the saddles. nice and flush.
All is good and ready for travelin'

[boubou]

No comments? Did I make a "big" mistake going with the tac welding choice?

[OldCoot]

Don't think you were wrong on the tack welds. As you say, you can always grind the weld with a cutoff blade and keep them. Just grind the frame and paint. Why give them away when heavier bars are cheaper than a complete package.

[Gquist]

That should work just fine, I wouldn't think that the small amount of heat used welding there is going to weaken the hitch any, It's too bad Reese doesn't come up with a better mounting system for the sway control,
Can I ask what your hitch weight on the camper is and what bars you are using? 800 or 1200? I am trying to decide what to order for my own that will be here at the end of the month. Thanks!

[boubou]

Originally Posted by Gquist

That should work just fine, I wouldn't think that the small amount of heat used welding there is going to weaken the hitch any, It's too bad Reese doesn't come up with a better mounting system for the sway control,
Can I ask what your hitch weight on the camper is and what bars you are using? 800 or 1200? I am trying to decide what to order for my own that will be here at the end of the month. Thanks!

X Truck:
Steer axle: 3440
Drive axle: 2600
Gross weight: 6040


Truck and TT
Steering axle: 3320
Drove axle: 3460
trailer : 5140
Gros weigth: 11920


So tongue weight 720
Using 800 lbs bars

[Gquist]

Thanks for the info! It looks like I might need the 1200lbs bars, posted dry hitch weight is 870lbs,

[boubou]

Originally Posted by Gquist

Thanks for the info! It looks like I might need the 1200lbs bars, posted dry hitch weight is 870lbs,

I'd agree with the 1200 lbs bars for sure. i was hesitant about the 800 lbs but was told to try them as my tongue weight could not possibly be this high ( 26 ft tt). Was told if Iwent 12000 lbs, it might be too stiff. Looks like 800 lbs works fine for me, but with your heavier tw, I would definitely Get the 1200 lbs

[MtnGuy]

Originally Posted by boubou

X Truck:
Steer axle: 3440
Drive axle: 2600
Gross weight: 6040


Truck and TT
Steering axle: 3320
Drove axle: 3460
trailer : 5140
Gros weigth: 11920


So tongue weight 720
Using 800 lbs bars

boubou, I presume the weights with the trailer are with the WDH spring bars hooked up ?? If so, 740 lbs. is probably not your true tongue weight, as the spring bars will transfer some of the tongue weight back to the trailer. To subtract your solo truck weight from the truck weight with the trailer hitched is a good way to get your tongue weight, but only if the spring bars are not attached. Your tongue weight may be higher, maybe over 800 lbs.

It the truck with trailer was weighed without the spring bars in place, then forget about my 1st paragraph.

BTW, you setup looks great. The spring bar looks centered on the cam, your spirng bars are slightly bent, and 6 links of chain use is good.

[boubou]

When calculating 10-15% tw, are these numbers from tw with or without spring bars attached?
Have to go back to scales :/
Also, how making it 5 links instead of 6? Would that give me some missing weight on front axles(-120lbs with wd attached)??

[boubou]

Originally Posted by mtnguy

boubou, I presume the weights with the trailer are with the WDH spring bars hooked up ?? If so, 740 lbs. is probably not your true tongue weight, as the spring bars will transfer some of the tongue weight back to the trailer. To subtract your solo truck weight from the truck weight with the trailer hitched is a good way to get your tongue weight, but only if the spring bars are not attached. Your tongue weight may be higher, maybe over 800 lbs.

It the truck with trailer was weighed without the spring bars in place, then forget about my 1st paragraph.

BTW, you setup looks great. The spring bar looks centered on the cam, your spirng bars are slightly bent, and 6 links of chain use is good.

I will go back to the scales and weigh TV/TT without bars attached to ne certain.
I have tried to use 5 links instead of 6 to distribute some more weight to the front axles but wasn't able to do it. I ended up raising the jack all the way up and still didn't have enough strenght to push the pry bar and hook up on the 5th link of chain.
Is there an easier way to transfer weight back to front axles? (short agout 120 lbs)? I know the hitch head could be tilted back, bringing bars downward but I think that the same thing would happen, just not enough strenght to push them up.
Would it be so bad to drive with 120 lbs short on front axle from original weigh in or should I just go with fender measurements?

[OldCoot]

Get a longer bar or put a cheater pipe on it. The ones that come with hitches are too short and flimsy anyway. Get an 18" pc of 1/2 black pipe and have someone weld a 3" pc of 3/4" pipe on the end of it or on both ends. Then you don't have to strain getting another link.

[boubou]

Originally Posted by dunnnc

Get a longer bar or put a cheater pipe on it. The ones that come with hitches are too short and flimsy anyway. Get an 18" pc of 1/2 black pipe and have someone weld a 3" pc of 3/4" pipe on the end of it or on both ends. Then you don't have to strain getting another link.

Thank you
i'll do that, easy fix
Brigitte

[OldCoot]

"Give me a lever long enough and a place to stand and I can move the world"- Archimedes, 230 BC