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Old 04-07-2012, 01:49 PM   #11
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Looks nice thanks for the pic..my coupler looks to be the same style as yours so I will do some tilting today and see how it does...I def do not have that many links under tension...
Did you find that measuring to the top of the coupler on level ground then then adding an inch to set ball height was correct, like the instructions said? That's the way I have mine set right now..23 " to the top of my coupler on level ground....24" to the top of the ball...that's what the instructions stated to do..
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Old 04-07-2012, 01:52 PM   #12
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Sorry to keep picking your brain..it is very helpful...one more question...do I have to use the trunion bars in the same spot every time? Use the same bar on the driver side and the same bar on the passenger side each time?
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Old 04-07-2012, 05:56 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by kozzy View Post
Did you find that measuring to the top of the coupler on level ground then then adding an inch to set ball height was correct, like the instructions said? That's the way I have mine set right now..23 " to the top of my coupler on level ground....24" to the top of the ball...that's what the instructions stated to do..
That should get you in the ballpark. A lot will depend on how your tow vehicle settles in back. Some squat more that others. It is not unheard of that people have to readjust the height of the ball after everything is set up....and then you have to readjust the cam position. It is a vicious circle. My 2006 F150 squats just a shade over 1" in back when I have the proper weight distributed.

I have heard of some people trying to adjust the WDH to level the trailer. That is a no-no. The trailer is leveled by the ball height, and the WDH is for putting most of the lost weight back on the front axle. In doing that, yes it will lift the front of the trailer some, but it is not the purpose of the WDH to level the trailer.-

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Sorry to keep picking your brain..it is very helpful...one more question...do I have to use the trunion bars in the same spot every time? Use the same bar on the driver side and the same bar on the passenger side each time?
Not a problem with picking my brain....it needs some exercise. I think (and hope) that I am giving you the proper instructions, but others can chime in here if they see something wrong.

Yes, it is good to have the spring bars on the same side every time, to make sure the notch is exactly in the dual cam.

I also got out my directions, and found where your ground to spring bar measurements came from. That is listed as a preliminary ballmount adjustment. It is good to start out with those figures, to get you in the ballpark with for the proper adjustment of the head assembly tilt.

I think those preliminary measurements are meant to get the initial setup using 7 or 8 lengths of chain. On some trailers that just doesn't work. In my case, I have the ball mount tilted all of the way back, and can't seem to get things right with anything more than 5 links under tension.

Sounds like you got a great handle on things.
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Old 04-07-2012, 07:15 PM   #14
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I talked to a fellow at reese regarding this very hitch. He said it was their best product for sway control. But, he said on those long trailers, you can add a friction bar to the setup if need be.
Just my 2 cents.
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Old 04-07-2012, 07:29 PM   #15
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Ok I have everything adjusted to the directions now...have the head tilted back just a bit...also have my initial measurements for the squat in the truck. Have to wait till Monday now when I hook back up to finish up...everything has been most helpful thank you...now I am assuming that if I still find myself have to use more chain that my next step would be to raise the ball height one notch and start over?

Right now I believe mine squats like 2.5 inches in the back. I can remember the front...it is my understanding from the directions that the front and backs should squat about 1/2 inch from the unloaded initial measurement, I will be happy if I get it to an inch or less though.

Saskrik....I do understand as well that I can add friction bars if needed....but before I go that way I want to get this adjusted properly and see how it performs. It didn't do too bad on the way down here...just seemed a little off so I am hoping these adjustments will do the trick. But as always I welcome the tips...as I have said a few times the WD stuff is all new to me...
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Old 04-08-2012, 12:37 AM   #16
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I agree with you kozzy. I recently bought the dual cam, but before I did I called reese. I probably wont have time to install mine before June or so. But, I sure do appreciate all the people that post on this forum. All the tips do come in handy. Good luck and keep us posted how you like the hitch once you have it dialed in right.
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Old 04-08-2012, 07:59 AM   #17
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now I am assuming that if I still find myself have to use more chain that my next step would be to raise the ball height one notch and start over?
Using more chain under tension is no reason to raise the ball height. The lengths of chain used are a result of the ball mount tilt. Adjusting the ball height is only needed if the trailer is not riding close to level after the proper weight distributing is obtained. An inch off level front to back of the trailer is not worth worrying with....I think the adjustment holes in the shank are a little over an inch apart.


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Right now I believe mine squats like 2.5 inches in the back. I can remember the front...it is my understanding from the directions that the front and backs should squat about 1/2 inch from the unloaded initial measurement, I will be happy if I get it to an inch or less though.
The directions on the vehicle settling are very vague in the Reese manual. It reads something like "the vehicle should settle evenly, within about 1/2 inch". Huh.....what does that mean ???

When I set up my WDH, the consensus at that time was to have the front of the vehicle settle over the unloaded (no trailer) weight. I have 40 lbs. (about 1/16" difference) on my front axle with WDH hooked up vs. the truck by itself.

The newer thinking is to get most of the lost weight back on the front of the TV. Some people may have put too much weight on the front axle, overloading that. If you can get the front fender measurement of the TV to within 1/8 to 0" of the unloaded (no trailer) weight, then that may be the ultimate set up. The squat on the rear end should be in the 1" area, depending on the TV.

BTW, I don't remember seeing what tow vehicle is being used.

To do the fender measurements, I run a 4' level as close as I can get it to the center line of the wheel. I get that level (perpendicular to the ground), and mark the pavement with a piece of tape.......that way I will get the exact spot on the fender for each measurement. I then run a 2' level under the fender, get that level, and read the figure on the ruler on the upright level.....if that makes sense.
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Old 04-08-2012, 10:50 AM   #18
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You are correct the are vague at best...I'm using a 2011 dodge ram 1500 outdoorsmen.
For my measurements I measure from the pavement to the midpoint of the inner fender both for t and back...then I remeasure after I hook up. That's what I did before. My goal tomorrow will be to get the front to damn near be the same as the un hitched height and the back to be an inch or less. We shall see in the morning when I hook up to go to my next stop..I think my ball height is pretty good...when I was leaving on my trip...the trailer looked level as I was walking from my front door to the road to leave...I remember commenting that I was surprised the trailer looked good..the truck...well..in my opinion it sagged just a little too much..
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Old 04-09-2012, 08:38 PM   #19
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Man....2 hours today to do all the adjusting...but I think I got it...it towed sooooo much better today...I had zero sway and the truck just felt a whole lot better....I too had to tilt the head all the way back...I now have 5 links under tension....the truck sits almost 2 inches in the back and .5 inch in the front....all is level to the nuts....I'm pretty sure the 1 squat in the back for me will be impossible..as my truck has a coiled spring suspension in the rear..and will squat more...I tried a few different setup and this one seems to be the best as far as squatting and keeping the trailer level....
When I drove it today...was totally different then the other day...my truck didn't feel sluggish or " overweighted"...and the other day the trailer just seemed like it always wanted to sway...today...was straight, never swayed once and the truck felt perfect.. I know I could adjust it more to reduce that 2" sag, but that will transfer too much weight to the front I think...with 6 links under tension, the front didn't move and the back was over 2" of sag...so when I shortened it to 5 links, and the back was under the 2" mark, and front was at .5 I figured that was it...mtn thanks for all the assistance...I think I have it locked in now..
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Old 04-10-2012, 10:44 AM   #20
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I know I could adjust it more to reduce that 2" sag, but that will transfer too much weight to the front I think...with 6 links under tension, the front didn't move and the back was over 2" of sag..
When you say the front end didn't move with the 6 links of chain, does that mean your front fender measurements are the same with the truck without the trailer as with the truck with the trailer and the WDH spring bars in place ?? If so, that is probably where you need the setup.

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..so when I shortened it to 5 links, and the back was under the 2" mark, and front was at .5 I figured that was it.
If the front fender is dropping over 1/2" with the spring bars in place vs. the truck without the trailer, that is probably too much weight being transferred to the front axle.

6 chain lengths under tension sounds like the best setup if my interpretation of your measurements are correct.

If you setup the cams for the 5 links of chain, you will need to tweak the yoke setup again for the 6 links if you decide to use that.
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