Reese dual cam wdh

[kozzy]

K I have a Reese dual cam strait line hitch for my lacrosse 318. Just did the first trip from new York to Florida. Doesn't seem like enough weight is being distributed o the front axels. I still had some sway. Well more than I thought I should have had..now I pulled out the Reese manual and measured everything for the initial setup. The dealer had the ball height correct, but it looked like the ball head angle was way off. According to the Reese manual my trunion bars should have initially been 7.5 inches off the ground instead they are currently 11. Because of those I can't raise my chains enough to move enough weight to the front of my truck...so am I right in assuming that if I correct this ball head angle issue, it will allow me access to more chain links to properly distribute weight to the front of my truck? Thoughts and assistance would be great.

[OldCoot]

You are correct, by tilting the hitch head down, you will be angling the torsion bars down and thus allowing more links to be dropped to increase the weight transfered to the front axle. Just make sure when you tilt the head that you get the bolts tightened so the head cannot move.

[kozzy]

That's what I thought. Thank you much. I find it weird that it will still work correctly with the head tilted downward a little...but hey I. Sure Reese knows what they are. Doing. I figure I have to tilt it down 3 notches...about 3 inches. And hopefully that should do it...I'm hoping this will reduce the sway I'm getting. The trailer handled well...I would get some sway when a tractor trailer drove by or in the gusty wind...but every once in a while out of the blue it would just sway and recover...very strange. This WD hitch stuff is all new to me...I went from a pop up to fifth wheel....never used this type of setup until now..thanks for the input I'm going to do the adjustments tomorrow. Monday I am leading for Tampa which is an hour away from me. That should give me a good test before I make the long drive back to new York next week.

[Twisty]

Putting more pressure on the spring bars should help the "cam" to have more effect.

[kozzy]

Great. All great tips and help. Gonna try it tomorrow. Thanks

[OldCoot]

"I went from a pop up to fifth wheel...."

Don't think you meant 5th wheel, if you're using a Reese WDH.

[MtnGuy]

1st of all, do the fender measurements that are spelled out in the book. You need to find out if you are setup correctly as it is now.....but rarely do dealers get it right. If you are getting the proper weight distributing now, then the sway may be a result of the cam not being exactly positioned in the spring bar notches.....explained below.

Tilting the head back 1 notch is about equal to 1 notch of chain. In other words to keep the current weight distributing, if you tilt the head assembly back 1 more notch, then you would have to add a link of chain (under tension) to receive the same weight distributing. Using the same link of chain with the head assembly tilted back 1 more notch is gonna give you a lot more weight distributing.

Keep in mind that Reese recommends at least 5 chain links between the snap-up bracket and the cam. More than 5 links is a good thing, if the dual cam is not getting too close to the road.

If you have at least 3 notches to tilt the head assembly back, start there. That will give you flexibility to fine tune your set-up by finding the proper chain length that suits your rig.

Once you have the proper weight distributing, you need to make sure the dual cam is exactly centered in the notch on your spring bars. This is very important !!! Any variation with that is not optimizing the sway control. I have even marked my spring bars so they go back on the same side every time. Any minute difference in the lengths of the spring bars could cause the sway control not to function as well if I reversed the bars.

[kozzy]

Haha. No I meant 5th wheel. I had a pop up then went to a 5 th wheel. That was all before I got my current. TT. I should have explained a little better...
I am used to the 5 th wheel setup...this is my first experience with weight distribution hitches.

[kozzy]

Mtnguy...thanks for the good clarification. When I started my trip, I had the 5 links in between and the sway was bad, every stop I made I was adding one, to the point now where I have 3 and that is all I can do without affecting my turning, but my head is not tilted at all and I have the room to tilt it. I did all the measuring per the Reese manual and the ball height is correct, but I believe the tilt is off. When I put the bars in place and swing them out to where they would hook to the cam, and take the slack up, I should have 7.5 inches from the ground to the tip of the bar, and right now I have 11.. So I plan on tilting the head back 3 notches for starters, that should give me about 8 inches from the ground and allow me to use the recommend 5 links or less of chain...right now the bars sit in the cams perfectly, but I will recheck all that after I make the adjustments..
Does that seem right and make sense to you?

[MtnGuy]

Originally Posted by kozzy

So I plan on tilting the head back 3 notches for starters, that should give me about 8 inches from the ground and allow me to use the recommend 5 links or less of chain...right now the bars sit in the cams perfectly, but I will recheck all that after I make the adjustments..
Does that seem right and make sense to you?

That should read 5 links or more on chain links under tension.

If your coupler is mounted on top of the trailer tongue, then the head assembly will probably end up being tilted back severely. If the coupler is mounted to the bottom of the trailer tongue, then the head assembly should not be tilted back much, and may even be tilted forward.

I would be less concerned with the true measurement of the cam to the ground as much as how many lenghts of chain are under tension. Under 5 is bad, 5 links is good, 6, 7, or 8 even better.....more lengths means your spring bars will clear your cam adjusters better during a sharp turn. But there is a balancing point there, that you don't want your spring bar tips too close to the ground, as they could rub going over a hump in the road.

On my setup, I have the ball tilted all of the way back, and I am using 5 links of chain. That is the about the best that I can get my setup.

[kozzy]

Looks nice thanks for the pic..my coupler looks to be the same style as yours so I will do some tilting today and see how it does...I def do not have that many links under tension...
Did you find that measuring to the top of the coupler on level ground then then adding an inch to set ball height was correct, like the instructions said? That's the way I have mine set right now..23 " to the top of my coupler on level ground....24" to the top of the ball...that's what the instructions stated to do..

[kozzy]

Sorry to keep picking your brain..it is very helpful...one more question...do I have to use the trunion bars in the same spot every time? Use the same bar on the driver side and the same bar on the passenger side each time?

[MtnGuy]

Originally Posted by kozzy

Did you find that measuring to the top of the coupler on level ground then then adding an inch to set ball height was correct, like the instructions said? That's the way I have mine set right now..23 " to the top of my coupler on level ground....24" to the top of the ball...that's what the instructions stated to do..

That should get you in the ballpark. A lot will depend on how your tow vehicle settles in back. Some squat more that others. It is not unheard of that people have to readjust the height of the ball after everything is set up....and then you have to readjust the cam position. It is a vicious circle. My 2006 F150 squats just a shade over 1" in back when I have the proper weight distributed.

I have heard of some people trying to adjust the WDH to level the trailer. That is a no-no. The trailer is leveled by the ball height, and the WDH is for putting most of the lost weight back on the front axle. In doing that, yes it will lift the front of the trailer some, but it is not the purpose of the WDH to level the trailer.-

Originally Posted by kozzy

Sorry to keep picking your brain..it is very helpful...one more question...do I have to use the trunion bars in the same spot every time? Use the same bar on the driver side and the same bar on the passenger side each time?

Not a problem with picking my brain....it needs some exercise. I think (and hope) that I am giving you the proper instructions, but others can chime in here if they see something wrong.

Yes, it is good to have the spring bars on the same side every time, to make sure the notch is exactly in the dual cam.

I also got out my directions, and found where your ground to spring bar measurements came from. That is listed as a preliminary ballmount adjustment. It is good to start out with those figures, to get you in the ballpark with for the proper adjustment of the head assembly tilt.

I think those preliminary measurements are meant to get the initial setup using 7 or 8 lengths of chain. On some trailers that just doesn't work. In my case, I have the ball mount tilted all of the way back, and can't seem to get things right with anything more than 5 links under tension.

Sounds like you got a great handle on things.

[saskrick]

I talked to a fellow at reese regarding this very hitch. He said it was their best product for sway control. But, he said on those long trailers, you can add a friction bar to the setup if need be.
Just my 2 cents.

[kozzy]

Ok I have everything adjusted to the directions now...have the head tilted back just a bit...also have my initial measurements for the squat in the truck. Have to wait till Monday now when I hook back up to finish up...everything has been most helpful thank you...now I am assuming that if I still find myself have to use more chain that my next step would be to raise the ball height one notch and start over?

Right now I believe mine squats like 2.5 inches in the back. I can remember the front...it is my understanding from the directions that the front and backs should squat about 1/2 inch from the unloaded initial measurement, I will be happy if I get it to an inch or less though.

Saskrik....I do understand as well that I can add friction bars if needed....but before I go that way I want to get this adjusted properly and see how it performs. It didn't do too bad on the way down here...just seemed a little off so I am hoping these adjustments will do the trick. But as always I welcome the tips...as I have said a few times the WD stuff is all new to me...

[saskrick]

I agree with you kozzy. I recently bought the dual cam, but before I did I called reese. I probably wont have time to install mine before June or so. But, I sure do appreciate all the people that post on this forum. All the tips do come in handy. Good luck and keep us posted how you like the hitch once you have it dialed in right.

[MtnGuy]

Originally Posted by kozzy

now I am assuming that if I still find myself have to use more chain that my next step would be to raise the ball height one notch and start over?

Using more chain under tension is no reason to raise the ball height. The lengths of chain used are a result of the ball mount tilt. Adjusting the ball height is only needed if the trailer is not riding close to level after the proper weight distributing is obtained. An inch off level front to back of the trailer is not worth worrying with....I think the adjustment holes in the shank are a little over an inch apart.

Originally Posted by kozzy

Right now I believe mine squats like 2.5 inches in the back. I can remember the front...it is my understanding from the directions that the front and backs should squat about 1/2 inch from the unloaded initial measurement, I will be happy if I get it to an inch or less though.

The directions on the vehicle settling are very vague in the Reese manual. It reads something like "the vehicle should settle evenly, within about 1/2 inch". Huh.....what does that mean ???

When I set up my WDH, the consensus at that time was to have the front of the vehicle settle over the unloaded (no trailer) weight. I have 40 lbs. (about 1/16" difference) on my front axle with WDH hooked up vs. the truck by itself.

The newer thinking is to get most of the lost weight back on the front of the TV. Some people may have put too much weight on the front axle, overloading that. If you can get the front fender measurement of the TV to within 1/8 to 0" of the unloaded (no trailer) weight, then that may be the ultimate set up. The squat on the rear end should be in the 1" area, depending on the TV.

BTW, I don't remember seeing what tow vehicle is being used.

To do the fender measurements, I run a 4' level as close as I can get it to the center line of the wheel. I get that level (perpendicular to the ground), and mark the pavement with a piece of tape.......that way I will get the exact spot on the fender for each measurement. I then run a 2' level under the fender, get that level, and read the figure on the ruler on the upright level.....if that makes sense.

[kozzy]

You are correct the are vague at best...I'm using a 2011 dodge ram 1500 outdoorsmen.
For my measurements I measure from the pavement to the midpoint of the inner fender both for t and back...then I remeasure after I hook up. That's what I did before. My goal tomorrow will be to get the front to damn near be the same as the un hitched height and the back to be an inch or less. We shall see in the morning when I hook up to go to my next stop..I think my ball height is pretty good...when I was leaving on my trip...the trailer looked level as I was walking from my front door to the road to leave...I remember commenting that I was surprised the trailer looked good..the truck...well..in my opinion it sagged just a little too much..

[kozzy]

Man....2 hours today to do all the adjusting...but I think I got it...it towed sooooo much better today...I had zero sway and the truck just felt a whole lot better....I too had to tilt the head all the way back...I now have 5 links under tension....the truck sits almost 2 inches in the back and .5 inch in the front....all is level to the nuts....I'm pretty sure the 1 squat in the back for me will be impossible..as my truck has a coiled spring suspension in the rear..and will squat more...I tried a few different setup and this one seems to be the best as far as squatting and keeping the trailer level....
When I drove it today...was totally different then the other day...my truck didn't feel sluggish or " overweighted"...and the other day the trailer just seemed like it always wanted to sway...today...was straight, never swayed once and the truck felt perfect.. I know I could adjust it more to reduce that 2" sag, but that will transfer too much weight to the front I think...with 6 links under tension, the front didn't move and the back was over 2" of sag...so when I shortened it to 5 links, and the back was under the 2" mark, and front was at .5 I figured that was it...mtn thanks for all the assistance...I think I have it locked in now..

[MtnGuy]

Originally Posted by kozzy

I know I could adjust it more to reduce that 2" sag, but that will transfer too much weight to the front I think...with 6 links under tension, the front didn't move and the back was over 2" of sag..

When you say the front end didn't move with the 6 links of chain, does that mean your front fender measurements are the same with the truck without the trailer as with the truck with the trailer and the WDH spring bars in place ?? If so, that is probably where you need the setup.

Originally Posted by kozzy

..so when I shortened it to 5 links, and the back was under the 2" mark, and front was at .5 I figured that was it.

If the front fender is dropping over 1/2" with the spring bars in place vs. the truck without the trailer, that is probably too much weight being transferred to the front axle.

6 chain lengths under tension sounds like the best setup if my interpretation of your measurements are correct.

If you setup the cams for the 5 links of chain, you will need to tweak the yoke setup again for the 6 links if you decide to use that.