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Old 04-23-2012, 03:26 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Lonewolfcry View Post
I always thought the ideal setup would allow the TV to settle an equal amount (front and rear) from unhooked measurements. My TV settled 1" in the rear and 1/2" in front with bars on.
Should I bring the front back up to unhooked measurement?
The way I read the Reese directions, you are probably on the money.....but the instructions are a little convoluted, at least to me. In part 7 under initial hook-up, it reads "Lower jack. Re-measure front and rear wheel well reference points (vehicle should settle evenly, within about 1/2 inch)". Currently, my truck goes down 1/16" in the front when I hook up the spring bars vs. the truck with no trailer hooked up.....I am adding an extra 40 lbs. to the front axle. If I got that down to 1/2", I would be afraid that I would be overloading the front axle. But.......as I tightened up the spring bars, the back end would come up, so I would not have to go the the full 1/2" on front.

If the vehicle were to settle "evenly", or even worse 1" in front and 1/2" in back (that seems OK with their explanation??) I would think that could put entirely too much weight on the front axle. Of course that is covered later when it reads the front should never settle more than the back. Instead of settling evenly, the 1" on the rear and 1/2" on the front axle, seems a better choice. If your current setup works well, and you are not over either axle weight rating, then you should be good to go.

Trucks and many SUVs are built to carry weight on the back axle. My current "actual" setup has the back of the truck going down 1 1/16", and the front 1/16". That puts me at 89% of the GAWR on the front axle, and 88% of the GVWR on the rear axle. I am adding 520 lbs. to the rear axle, and 40 lbs. to the front axle over the weights of no trailer hooked up. I am comfortable with that, but may slack off just a little when I set up my new head assembly.
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Old 04-23-2012, 03:45 PM   #12
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Calculating the figures with boubou's rig:

With 6 links: 85.6% of the FAWR, 88.2% of the RAWR.

With 5 links: 89.7% of the FAWR, 81.5% of the RAWR.

IMHO, either 1 of those is a good setup. If it were me, I think I would try the 6 links, and see how it drives compared to the 5 lengths. If it drives just as good, then I think that is what I would use. But that is just me......to follow the Reese directions exactly, you might even have to tilt the head assembly back more to get more weight distributing to get the "vehicle to settle evenly, within about 1/2" as indicated in their instructions.

BTW, notice the rear axle weight with no spring bars attached....that 880 lb. tongue weight has added 1320 lbs. to the rear axle, putting it over the RAWR, while taking 440 lbs. off of the front axle. To me, that shows the importance of using a WDH.
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Old 04-23-2012, 06:17 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by mtnguy View Post
BTW, notice the rear axle weight with no spring bars attached....that 880 lb. tongue weight has added 1320 lbs. to the rear axle, putting it over the RAWR, while taking 440 lbs. off of the front axle. To me, that shows the importance of using a WDH.
I wouldn't consider going without one!
who does???
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Old 04-24-2012, 09:47 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtnguy
Even though it appears so, the tongue weight does not change by using different lengths of chain. The tongue weight is still gonna be 880 lbs. You are just redistributing that 880 lbs around a bit. Some goes to the trailer axles, some to the truck front axle, with some subtracted from the truck rear axle. So, regardless of which chain lengths you finally decide is best, you will still have 15% tongue weight vs. total trailer weight.
So when people have low tw, theybtend to move stuff up front to prevent trailer sway. If I understand well, this makes no difference in tw but still helps balancing?
They say 11 to 15% tw is ideal. How does one know how much tw one has until you go to the scales? (after getting the trailer). What happens when tw is way too low?
Just curious
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Old 04-25-2012, 09:16 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by boubou View Post
So when people have low tw, they tend to move stuff up front to prevent trailer sway. If I understand well, this makes no difference in tw but still helps balancing?
Moving stuff around in the camper does affect the tongue weight. In my case, if I travel with with my fresh water tank full (over and a little behind the back axle), I lose 20 lbs. of tongue weight. If I travel with my water heater full (which I usually do, located in the back of my camper), I lose 20 lbs. on the tongue weight. My grey tank is directly in front of the axles, and my black tank is in front of the grey tank. A full grey tank will add 40 lbs. to my tongue weight, and a full black tank will add 80 lbs. to my tongue weight.....I have never had to travel with those full.

That will affect the weight distributing on the TV. If I have to travel with the waste tanks full, the tongue is going to press down on the hitch more, and tend to raise the front end of my TV more. But in the process, the spring bars are going to bend more, so not all of that extra tongue weight is gonna be added to the hitch.....if that makes sense.


Quote:
Originally Posted by boubou View Post
They say 11 to 15% tw is ideal. How does one know how much tw one has until you go to the scales? (after getting the trailer). What happens when tw is way too low?
Just curious
You don't know the tongue weight until you hit the scales. You can weigh the tongue with a Sherline or the bathroom scale method, but that still does not give you the total trailer weight, so you have no idea what the tongue weight percentage is.

If the tongue weight is too low, the extra weight at the back of the trailer is going to cause instability. That extra weight back there is gonna exacerbate any side to side motion by trying to make the back of the trailer catch up with the front. The forward motion will tend to bring it back in line, but the weight might then take it to the other side....and so the sway continues.
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Old 04-25-2012, 10:03 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtnguy
Even though it appears so, the tongue weight does not change by using different lengths of chain. The tongue weight is still gonna be 880 lbs. You are just redistributing that 880 lbs around a bit. Some goes to the trailer axles, some to the truck front axle, with some subtracted from the truck rear axle. So, regardless of which chain lengths you finally decide is best, you will still have 15% tongue weight vs. total trailer weight.
So Amount of chains will not change tw but gear in tt does....
Wd is just that. Wd
Got it
Thanks for your patience in explaining this
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