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Old 07-06-2015, 12:17 PM   #1
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Rockwood Sway Problem

We have a 2015 Rockwood UltraLight 2608WS and had it out for the first camping trip of the season this past weekend. We had so much sway that we were really worried about losing control. On the PA turnpike, we could only do about 40 MPH for fear of trucks blowing us right off the highway. We couldn't even get above 50 MPH as it would start to sway on its own.

We are towing with a 2012 Expedition EL with e-rated light truck tires (at full pressure). We have a Reese WDH with the dual cams (dealer installed). I am almost certain the WDH is not installed correctly.

When I spoke to a few other seasoned campers at the campground we were at, they all told me the front of my camper should not be up high than the back of my camper. When we finally got home and I was able to measure on level ground, when fully set up with the WDH on, the front of the camper was 2 inches higher than level and the back end of the camper was about 2 inches lower than the level point (front of camper was 4 inches higher than back).

I have already had the camper back to the dealer once right after we drove the camper home because of the sway but they told me the WDH is within spec. Is it really difficult to follow the manufacturer setup instructions? I just don't trust the dealer enough to go back for a second time to get them to set it up right.

Something just doesn't seem right here.
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Old 07-06-2015, 12:32 PM   #2
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Would suggest you do some internet searching, especially with YouTube. There are some straight forward, easy, and excellent how-to videos on explaining the proper procedure and setups using WDH and fine tuning them. You may find fine tuning them yourself is better than what the dealers would do. I did my own setup using the Videos and am very glad I learned how. As some here have repeatedly stated, they don't trust the dealers with the WDH setups. Check out the Videos, you will be ever so glad you did.
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Old 07-06-2015, 05:51 PM   #3
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As already stated, watch the U tube you'll be gald you did. I would say your set up is off. I don't have the dual cam set up, but I understand it's a good system but somewhat hard to get it right. may be some dual cam folks will jump in and help.
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Old 07-06-2015, 06:19 PM   #4
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You need to get the TT level or slightly (1/2") nose down. Also you need to make sure your SUV is setup right. The front of the SUV should be a close to it's original unloaded hgt as possible.


Do some research and learn to do your own work on the TT. The WD is really pretty simple once you start adjusting it. If you don't own any tools then it's time to invest in some. You'll save yourself some money as well as frustration when you learn to do your own work.
Most of the time RV dealers just slam the WD on the rig and send us on our way.


Here's a video on the DC Reese. I will say that the Reese DC is harder to get perfect that the rest. simply because you need to get the cams centered on the spring bars.
Reese Strait-Line Weight Distribution System Installation - 2013 Ram 1500 Video | etrailer.com
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Old 07-07-2015, 06:59 AM   #5
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Thanks everyone. I found the installation instructions also on the Reese website. Doesn't look too difficult. One quick question....when the installation is totally done and trailer is hooked up to the tow vehicle, should the weight distribution arms be parallel to the ground or parallel to the trailer frame?
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Old 07-07-2015, 07:24 AM   #6
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Thanks everyone. I found the installation instructions also on the Reese website. Doesn't look too difficult. One quick question....when the installation is totally done and trailer is hooked up to the tow vehicle, should the weight distribution arms be parallel to the ground or parallel to the trailer frame?
Ideally yes, but if they are slightly off either up or down really makes no difference if the trailer and tv are level.
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Old 07-07-2015, 07:27 AM   #7
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I would suggest paying attention to the difference in height of the front of the TV. If the WDH is installed correctly, the height of the front of the TV (measured from the ground to the bottom of the front wheeel well) should be almost = when hitched and unhitched. Indeed it's better to have the trailer nose down a little rather than nose up.
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Old 07-07-2015, 07:34 AM   #8
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Better to have the trailer level front to back. PERIOD. If not, there is/will be more load on either the front or rear axles. KEEP IT LEVEL. You can tweak it to get it level.
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Old 07-07-2015, 07:35 AM   #9
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As mentioned the trailer should be level to slightly nose down to begin with. You also need to make sure if you are loading heavy objects into the camper that the heavier items go to the front to help keep the tongue weight up.

Also, depending on the tongue weight of your camper you may not want to be running full pressure in your tires on the tow vehicle. Max air pressure is for the max load. If you are running max air and not the max load your tires will be balloned out and you'll be riding more on just the center section of your tires and not the whole tread width. It is unlikely this is causing anything with your trailer sway but worth noting...
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Old 07-07-2015, 07:37 AM   #10
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I would start with (T/W)! How much T/W # ready to go down the road? How much does the (Unit weight) ready to go down the road? The DEALER cant set up your unit (UNLESS) you have all the (Ready to Go Stuff) in the unit and are at His Dealership? Yes it should be (Level or Down a LITTLE) ! Youroo
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Old 07-07-2015, 07:43 AM   #11
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Someone explain this "Down a little" and why not just level? Just how much is "a little"?
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Old 07-07-2015, 07:58 AM   #12
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Easy its just a (TAD)! Youroo!!
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Old 07-07-2015, 08:02 AM   #13
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A little more than a skoch?
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Old 07-07-2015, 08:06 AM   #14
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More than a Hair! Youroo!!
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Old 07-07-2015, 08:28 AM   #15
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You guys crack me up! I really do appreciate all of the help. I have reviewed the instructions from Reese and the videos and I think I can get this straightened out.

On the plus side, it gives me an excuse to get some nice tools (big wrenches)....maybe even a nice torque wrench...."Sorry dear, the guys on the forum said I have to use a torque wrench to do it right."

Have a great day everyone.
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Old 07-07-2015, 09:08 AM   #16
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Someone explain this "Down a little" and why not just level? Just how much is "a little"?
Depending on the draw bar and which hole needs to be used it could be a toss up between slightly nose high or nose low. Sometime the available holes don't allow the nose to be perfectly level.

Down a little is a scoch more than a nats *****.
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Old 07-07-2015, 09:22 AM   #17
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Depending on the draw bar and which hole needs to be used it could be a toss up between slightly nose high or nose low. Sometime the available holes don't allow the nose to be perfectly level.

Down a little is a scoch more than a nats *****.
That's where tilting the head comes in. It can be adjusted in minute amounts with a little patience.
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Old 07-08-2015, 04:08 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tntbream View Post
You guys crack me up! I really do appreciate all of the help. I have reviewed the instructions from Reese and the videos and I think I can get this straightened out.

On the plus side, it gives me an excuse to get some nice tools (big wrenches)....maybe even a nice torque wrench...."Sorry dear, the guys on the forum said I have to use a torque wrench to do it right."

Have a great day everyone.
The Reese DC WDH works really well when it's set up properly. If you have the trunnion bars, you'll find that they'll be pointed downward (relative to the TT frame) when set up. The round bar setup will typically result in the bars being close to parallel to the TT frame. Either way it's imperative that your TV settles equally at the front and rear fender and that the TT is level. The nose down thing is totally nose down. Unless... the adjustment in your ball mount will not get the TT perfectly level. Then, the nose down option is preferred. You can do this. And best of all, you get more toys (tools).
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Old 08-25-2015, 11:12 AM   #19
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V-Nose Reese Straight Line/Dual Cam

Referring to Dual Cam, is this also called the "straight line" version?

I agree that the hitch works well when set up. My last dealer did not do well in that dept. and I've been changing mine for 3 years trying to keep from bending chain hangers. Adjustment of the hitch so the bars sit in the chain hanger is the key.

The head is very adjustable for leveling the trailer and angle of the bars. Lots of work though.
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Old 08-25-2015, 01:06 PM   #20
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Referring to Dual Cam, is this also called the "straight line" version?
Reese Strait-Line/Dual Cam - one and the same.

You shouldn't need to constantly adjust it once it's set up unless the TT load is drastically changing. It's critical that the cam arm be adjusted such that when the snap-up bracket is closed, the chain is vertical when the cam is nested in the spring bar detent. We've put over 15K miles on ours and it has not required any adjustment.
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