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Old 07-15-2013, 10:42 PM   #31
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Rear only. Front are struts, cant do till later this year.

Still pretty stiff, little rebound.
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Old 07-15-2013, 10:48 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by Dabmeb View Post
I always understood to heavy a bar will cause porpoising. You have a trailer with app 500# dry weight hitch. The 1000# bars are maybe to heavy.
I am no expert at this. I would think that too light a bar would have more flex so you would get more up and down movement. At least that has been my experience...

That 500 lbs tong weight for the OP's TT is around 10%. I have read that 10-15% is good with 15% better...
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Old 07-16-2013, 08:08 AM   #33
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Bakken, the w/d hitch isn't used to lift the back end of the tv. The w/d hitch is used to distribute weight which in return will level the ride of the TV and camper. This generally will pick up the tail some, but that's not what it is designed for.

Dabmeb is correct... 1000 LBS bars are twice of what you are needing. Too stiff of bars with too much tension on the hitch will again act like a spring in the center and the front of the trailer and tail of the TV will bounce up and down on this point. Where the lighter bars would allow more flex at this point not creating such a spring affect at the hitch.

It appears you have gotten the rig pretty leveled out with the hitch you have, but I do have a feeling you are experiencing the porpoising due to too much tension on the bars. A big part of that may be the 1000 pound bars...

Have you pulled with out the w/d bars on at all?
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Old 07-16-2013, 08:24 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by avolnek View Post
Bakken, the w/d hitch isn't used to lift the back end of the tv. The w/d hitch is used to distribute weight which in return will level the ride of the TV and camper. This generally will pick up the tail some, but that's not what it is designed for.
Not to be argumentative, but if the WDH isn't designed to level out the TV, what would its purpose be?
Redistributing weight and leveling the TV are inextricably linked.
So, getting the TV to sit on its over-load springs and at the same time be reasonably level would mean there would have to be a very large load on the hitch.
But we digress.
I tend to agree with those who think the OP doesn't have enough weight on the hitch, too heavy bars on his WDH, or a combination of both.
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Old 07-16-2013, 08:29 AM   #35
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You guys are right about the WD bars being too high. Got this off e-Trailer web...

Quote:
The TW rating is the most important factor in determining which size weight-distribution system you should use. If the bars of the system you choose are rated too high for your setup, they will create a rigid ride, which can result in a bouncing trailer. If, on the other hand, the bars are not rated high enough, the system will be unable to properly distribute the weight, rendering it virtually useless.

Here's an example:
If you have a trailer that has a TW of 700 lbs, and your vehicle has 100 lbs of cargo in the trunk, then your overall, weight-distribution TW is 800 lbs. Choosing a weight-distribution system with a 1,500-lb TW rating may lead to erratic performance because it is rated too high. On the other hand, if you choose a system rated too low, say at 500 lbs, the system would be ineffective. Choose a weight-distribution system with a TW rating that is closest to your towing setup's TW to ensure the best performance.
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Old 07-16-2013, 08:31 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by bakken View Post
Not to be argumentative, but if the WDH isn't designed to level out the TV, what would its purpose be?
Redistributing weight and leveling the TV are inextricably linked.
So, getting the TV to sit on its over-load springs and at the same time be reasonably level would mean there would have to be a very large load on the hitch.
But we digress.
I tend to agree with those who think the OP doesn't have enough weight on the hitch, too heavy bars on his WDH, or a combination of both.


Did you read my post? I put down almost exactly what you just said a w/d hitch is designed to do. Lifting the tail isn't the design but will happen in almost every scenario...

To get a truck to ride on the overloads doesn't take as much weight at you think it will... Especially for a bumper mount trailer. It's a simple fact that you will have a more stable and secure ride with higher spring rate in the rear end! How do you get a higher spring rate? Adding springs is the most common, IE squatting and allowing the truck to ride on the overloads installed factory on the truck! Or one could add springs to the package, ie add a leafs, air bags, timbrens or helper springs... even stiffer shocks would help with spring rate...
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Old 07-16-2013, 08:32 AM   #37
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Dump the WD hitch just use an anti sway bar.
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Old 07-16-2013, 08:37 AM   #38
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...even stiffer shocks would help with spring rate...
Sorry, shocks control spring rebound but do not add to or remove spring rate unless they are "coil over" or "air shocks".
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Old 07-16-2013, 08:43 AM   #39
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Sorry, shocks control spring rebound but do not add to or remove spring rate unless they are "coil over" or "air shocks".


I'd have to respectively disagree, shocks can/will increase spring rate of the vehicle. I'd say this is going to be very miniscule amounts, but I'd have to say that it can still affect it. (there are springs in the majority of shocks)

VERY MINISCULE amounts I'm sure, but its there!
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Old 07-16-2013, 08:50 AM   #40
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I'd have to respectively disagree, shocks can/will increase spring rate of the vehicle. I'd say this is going to be very miniscule amounts, but I'd have to say that it can still affect it. (there are springs in the majority of shocks)

VERY MINISCULE amounts I'm sure, but its there!
Spring?
Shocks control fluid flow via valving.
http://www.monroe.com/en-US/support/...ock-Absorbers/
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