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Old 08-09-2013, 05:36 PM   #31
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I had a similar situation when I traded in my '01 Expedition for my '11 F-150. Dealer said when empty, leave 2 links on my leveling hitch, but leave 3 (more weight transferred forward, because of more load on the chains and bars) when the trailer got loaded. I used 3 for a couple of trips and bounced a lot. On the way back from my last trip, I switched back to 2 and it solved the baoncing and jarring. I guess I just don't run as loaded down as some... With the 1-ton van, your problem will probably be more difficult to solve.
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Old 08-12-2013, 01:11 AM   #32
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That's something, I have never seen those before. Does anyone on here actually use them?
I should of posted this a while back but here's a install and review.

Installation and Review of Sulastic Springs on 2006 GMC 2500 Duramax - YouTube
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Old 08-20-2013, 04:19 PM   #33
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Well our first trip with the new air bags installed was less than impressive. Granted, I only had 50 psi in the bags but I had hoped to see some improvement. I guess the only thing left is to air them closer to 100 psi and try that. I have set up, adjusted, and readjusted the hitch to no avail.
The only thing that I would like to try that I haven't is running with no WDH at all as an experiment. My hitch says no more than 600# of dead weight though so I can't do that. FRUSTRATED!!!
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Old 08-20-2013, 05:04 PM   #34
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Gizmo...maybe one of these with a 5'ver attached will accomodate your camping family!
Good luck with getting your ride comfort sorted out...it can be a pain to figure it out
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Old 08-21-2013, 01:35 PM   #35
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Gizmo...maybe one of these with a 5'ver attached will accomodate your camping family!
Good luck with getting your ride comfort sorted out...it can be a pain to figure it out
That would work! And maybe a trailer behind the fiver just for good measure!
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Old 08-25-2013, 09:31 AM   #36
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So this weekend I had to pull a 16ft enclosed trailer full of generators for work. No WDH and really unsure of the weight. The van rode like a dream! Now I'm considering upgrading to a better hitch receiver that can handle the tongue weight of the trailer with no WDH. My only concern is the fact I would have no sway control at that point, any suggestions?
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Old 08-25-2013, 09:39 AM   #37
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So this weekend I had to pull a 16ft enclosed trailer full of generators for work. No WDH and really unsure of the weight. The van rode like a dream! Now I'm considering upgrading to a better hitch receiver that can handle the tongue weight of the trailer with no WDH. My only concern is the fact I would have no sway control at that point, any suggestions?
With just a little creativity, you can add 2 friction sway bars which will be a tremendous help.
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Old 08-25-2013, 10:07 AM   #38
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With just a little creativity, you can add 2 friction sway bars which will be a tremendous help.
How would you do that? This project has already cost me a lot of money! I can get a hitch rated at 2400# tongue weight with a ball mount and ball rated for the same for a little over $300. I'm not sure where to find just the ball mount that accepts friction sway bars as well as the trailer brackets. I don't know if I REALLY even need it but I would rather be safe then sorry.
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Old 08-25-2013, 10:17 AM   #39
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How would you do that? This project has already cost me a lot of money! I can get a hitch rated at 2400# tongue weight with a ball mount and ball rated for the same for a little over $300. I'm not sure where to find just the ball mount that accepts friction sway bars as well as the trailer brackets. I don't know if I REALLY even need it but I would rather be safe then sorry.
Most friction sway bar kits come with the steel bar that has to be welded to the side of the hitch. Just add one to both sides of the hitch. You have to turn the friction bar upside down when you install it on the left (drivers) side.
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Old 08-25-2013, 10:38 AM   #40
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Gizmo.
Have you contacted the hitch people for there input for spring bar ratings, etc. The Chevy 3500 van cut away I drove with a loaded box on the rear always had a hard rebound on the frt suspension. This was due to a more limited travel in the frt suspension then say a pick up based frame. Also the vehicle builders all seem to be building the vans and trucks for a smooth ride vs what we are doing when we tow a trailer. This seems to cause more bucking and bouncing when we tow. The hitch people build there stuff to lift the trailer and back of the vehicle and hold the load. This works against what the chassis people have done. Sometimes the factory shocks might no be the best when hauling the load. Is it possible for your dealer to check the vans alaignment with the trailer attached. This would make sure you are not changing the alaignment when hooked up.
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