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Old 04-30-2012, 01:00 PM   #31
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I purchased the TT this weekend & bringing it home on Interstate 70 a lot of sway, it was quite windy though? Would it help if I added a second friction sway bar?


My TV is a 2009 F150 4x4 Supercab XLT
Wheelbase 145"
4.6 3v EFI V8 6-SPD
3.55 Ratio Reg Axle Trailer Tow package

Looking at Rockwood Ultra Lite 27033ss
Length 31'11"
Hitch weight 594 lbs
Dry weight 6,048 lbs
Gross weight 7,474 lbs
You did not mention what kind of hitch you have now.
I also think you might be overloaded.
Without a 3 times weigh there is no way to be certain.
1) Truck loaded for camping with family - by itself
2) Same EXACT truck above connected to camper but any WD bars in truck bed.
3) Same EXACT truck above connected to camper with WD hitch bars installed.
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Old 04-30-2012, 01:03 PM   #32
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Two sway bars for your setup would be wise.

Or, even a different WDH.

What is the weight distribution hitch you are using now?
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Old 04-30-2012, 01:34 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bandit7 View Post
I purchased the TT this weekend & bringing it home on Interstate 70 a lot of sway, it was quite windy though? Would it help if I added a second friction sway bar?


My TV is a 2009 Supercab XLT
Wheelbase 145"
4.6 3v EFI V8 6-SPD
3.55 Ratio Reg Axle Trailer Tow package

Looking at Rockwood Ultra Lite 27033ss
Length 31'11"
Hitch weight 594 lbs
Dry weight 6,048 lbs
Gross weight 7,474 lbs
By questioning whether you should add a 2nd sway bar, I would presume that you did not get a WDH with integrated sway control ?? That would be the best bet for that long of a trailer. A Reese Straight Line Dual Cam, Equal-i-zer 4 Pt., or Blue Ox Sway Pro would be good choices, or if you have the big bucks a Hensley or Pro-Pride would be ideal. I looked back through the posts here, and surprising enough there was little mention of WDH and sway control.

Adding a 2nd friction sway bar might help. But as I indicated in my post #18, that trailer has a really lite tongue weight compared to the total trailer weight (under 8%), at least indicated by empty weights at the Forest River site. Usually, the total trailer weights after adding options are about 400 lbs. more than the listed weights, but of course the tongue will come up some also after adding a battery and propane.

Ideally, that tongue weight should be over 12% (or at least 10%) of the total trailer weight to make that puppy tow without a lot of sway. You are going to have to really load that puppy front heavy to make it tow good. It looks like much of the storage (front pass through, wardrobes, under bed storage, etc.). The pantry and fridge appear to be over the wheels, so that is OK. Might want to keep store only lite things in the rear cabinets and pass throughs.
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Old 04-30-2012, 01:46 PM   #34
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Reese
GTW 12,000
TW 1200
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Old 04-30-2012, 01:53 PM   #35
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Cheapest way to help is tighten the sway control more and add another one on the opposite side and KEEP THEM TIGHT. They should make noise when making turns, but that is just letting you know they are working.

We've pulled racecar trailers/campers etc since 76 and found the second sway bar helps tremendously if they are kept tight. They are just a horizontal brake and use brake pad material on both sides of the sliding bar. Also, found a very light sanding with a disc sander on the sliding bar on the sway bars helps when they get glazed, which they will.
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Old 04-30-2012, 02:05 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by Bandit7 View Post
Reese
GTW 12,000
TW 1200
There are 3 types of Reese Hitches:

The standard spring bars (either round or trunnion) and chains. There is no integrated sway control with that system........friction sway control bars are needed

The Pro Series SC with built it sway control.....that works on the same principal as the Progressive E2s.

The Straight Line Dual Cam HP. That system is considered top of the line for Reese. The dual cams can be added to the standard spring bar system, if those spring bars have "crooks" on the ends.

A photo of your system would be good.
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Old 04-30-2012, 02:17 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by Bandit7 View Post
Reese
GTW 12,000
TW 1200
I agree with Chap that the Dual Cam, Equal-i-zer or Blue Ox are better choices than a standard friction.

With regards to his third choice mentioned above, you "might" be able to add the Dual Cam HP sway control onto your exiting setup. I believe that this can be added to an exisitng Reese as long as your existing spring bars have the cam end and the weight distribution is the type that uses chains. You need to speak with Reese first to make sure but it would be less expensive for you than buying a new hitch.

If not, I think a WDH with integrated sway will work better for your setup.
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Old 04-30-2012, 03:12 PM   #38
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I have the Reese standard hitch with tunnion bars and 1 sway bar
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Old 04-30-2012, 03:42 PM   #39
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I have the Reese standard hitch with tunnion bars and 1 sway bar
Since you already have that setup, then adding a 2nd friction sway bar would probably be the cheapest way to go, and may correct some of the sway.

It would be good to get to the scales and get initial weights, although doing a weigh-in camping ready is probably more important. . Weighing your truck alone, then with the trailer, both with and without the spring bars in place will give you all sorts of information. You can see if you indeed do have a lite tongue weight, as well as if the WDH is setup correctly.....that is getting most of the lost front axle weight back to the front axle.

Ideally, it would also be good to get your weights when you have everything loaded for camping. You can see how loading the camper will affect the tongue weight, and making sure that you are not over any or your axle capacities, as well as the gross weights and combined gross weight.

I stopped by the local quarry before loading my camper just to get some comparisons. Come to find out, the dealer setup had only added 60 lbs. back to my front axle out of the 280 lbs. lost when the trailer was hooked up. Needless to say, I have adjusted the WDH significantly since then.
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Old 04-30-2012, 03:52 PM   #40
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