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Old 06-24-2013, 12:20 PM   #11
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Just remember, the safety chains must be able to withstand the load of pulling the trailer and the shock load if the coupler/ball should break. They must be crossed under the tongue to catch the tongue in case of a disconnect.
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Old 06-24-2013, 12:34 PM   #12
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Try Fastenal Company if you go the link route. They can find just about anything that involves high strength chain.
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Old 06-25-2013, 05:55 AM   #13
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I have similar trailer and as wmtire says, check towing rating as it will be close. Here is a link to extension chain and 7 pin cable for purchase....

Extension Kit for ProPride 3P or Hensley Arrow - ProPride, Inc.
Does anyone happen to know the weight limit on the connectors and chains in this kit? The GVW of my camper is right around 8,500 lbs, so I was wondering if this would work. Seems like an easy fix if it will. Thanks
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Old 06-25-2013, 09:58 AM   #14
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Yes crossing the chains is something I just found out with my second trailer. How do you know the correct length for the chains?
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Old 06-25-2013, 10:02 AM   #15
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Yes crossing the chains is something I just found out with my second trailer. How do you know the correct length for the chains?
The chains when crossed just need to be long enough to hook. When the trailer turns the slack will increase due to the crossing.
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Old 06-25-2013, 10:05 AM   #16
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Yes crossing the chains is something I just found out with my second trailer. How do you know the correct length for the chains?
Long enough so that they do not bind or become tight on any part of the hitch on the sharpest turn possible. The chains when crossed basically form a nice arc from the trailer to the TV without dragging on the ground. I probably have about 3-4 inches of ground clearance from the lowest point of my safety chains.
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Old 06-25-2013, 10:40 AM   #17
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Long enough so that they do not bind or become tight on any part of the hitch on the sharpest turn possible. The chains when crossed basically form a nice arc from the trailer to the TV without dragging on the ground. I probably have about 3-4 inches of ground clearance from the lowest point of my safety chains.
I was told years ago by a MO State Highway Patrol that they should be the shortest possible and if they have scuff marks on any links that have contacted the ground they should be replaced. I always made mine as short as possible with minimal sag.
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Old 06-25-2013, 10:44 AM   #18
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OK - I am trying to figure this one out. Is your wife using the same receiver shank and ball set-up on your F-150 as she did on her Dad's truck?

The only reason I can think the chains would be too short is if the shank is really long. I am not sure what WDH hitch you are using, but many can be used with a variety of shanks. I ended up with a long shank for Reece Dual cam. When I set it up I intended to replace it pretty quick but found I like it because it means I can turn sharper without hitting trailer...not that that has ever happened to me before...

Anyway - before I started trying to find ways to lengthen the safety chains, I would look at the WDH and see if a shorter shank is possible.

And this is why - the safety chain should be a solid link where it attaches to the trailer to a welded loop. It is no small task to replace with a longer chain as it involves removing that loop and welding in a new one. Just adding quick links is IMHO a really poor choice as you would need a quick link with a 20K lb break strength. Not common, and darn sure not cheap.
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Old 06-25-2013, 11:33 AM   #19
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Just adding quick links is IMHO a really poor choice as you would need a quick link with a 20K lb break strength. Not common, and darn sure not cheap.
You only need to buy 2 quick links ($7 each) and enough chain with a SWL (safe working load) to match the existing chain. The metal tag on our safety chain indicated a SWL of 8,300 lbs. I bought about 2 feet of chain (forget the price, it was less than $5). The guy in the store cut out (with gigantic chain cutters) the desired number of links I needed. The quick links were rated between 10-12K.
I checked with our provincial ministry of transportation to make sure this would be approved. Yes, it was a lot of running around and calling to find the right chain and links with the adequate ratings, but it was something I could do without returning to a dealer and avoid new welding.
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Old 06-25-2013, 12:55 PM   #20
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You only need to buy 2 quick links ($7 each) and enough chain with a SWL (safe working load) to match the existing chain. The metal tag on our safety chain indicated a SWL of 8,300 lbs. I bought about 2 feet of chain (forget the price, it was less than $5). The guy in the store cut out (with gigantic chain cutters) the desired number of links I needed. The quick links were rated between 10-12K.
I checked with our provincial ministry of transportation to make sure this would be approved. Yes, it was a lot of running around and calling to find the right chain and links with the adequate ratings, but it was something I could do without returning to a dealer and avoid new welding.
for a nearly 10K gross weight trailer, you would need 1/2 inch chain with carries a sheer strength of 27,000 pounds. The largest quick link made is 1/2 inch but has a max strength of 10,000 pounds.

No offense, but why would you put in a link that has nearly 60% less strength than the chain you are attaching?
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