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Old 02-21-2014, 04:10 PM   #61
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Well Said
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Old 02-23-2014, 07:06 AM   #62
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Sometimes you (think) the homework is complete so you can make an informed decision, but you still get burned. Two years ago I was looking to upgrade my TV. We needed to stay with an SUV because I drive the "family vehicle" (I'm a stay-at-home dad)... Researched my tow allowances for the Suburban, Sequoia and Armada. All three would tow any camper i'd want to tow (under 26'), or so I thought. So it came down to price vs needs.
When I found the vehicle I wanted, I looked in the owners manual... Tow capacity stated 9000lbs. That wasn't enough for me. I called Nissan and spoke to someone in the technical dept. I gave them the VIN number and wanted the tow cap. Based off the VIN... Again, 9000lb tow. I made the purchase and started shopping TT's around 6,000lbs. Long story short, I came to the truth that my Armada SV is rated at just 6500lbs. Man did I feel like a fool. I love my new Rockwood 2306... But a little miffed about the process of how I came to own it.

So... How do you know for a certainty what the tow capacity is?
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Old 02-23-2014, 08:03 AM   #63
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So... How do you know for a certainty what the tow capacity is?
The door pillar has most everything you need these days.

If you plan on a travel trailer (for example), take the payload number off the pillar and subtract the weight of your family, gear and hitch of choice. Divide what is left of the payload by 0.15 for the maximum GVWR of the camper you should target.

If you are looking to buy a tow vehicle for your camper, take the GVWR of the camper and multiply it by 0.15 to find the maximum pin weight. Add your family, gear, and WD hitch weight (about 100 pounds) and shop for a truck with that available total payload.

Also make sure when you add the GVWRs of both vehicles it is less that the maximum combined weight on the pillar.
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Old 02-23-2014, 08:18 AM   #64
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So... How do you know for a certainty what the tow capacity is?

I don't think anybody can tell you for sure what your tow ratings are. When we first decided to go looking for a trailer, I spent months trying to find out my tow ratings. I got answers ranging anywhere between 5000 and 11000 lbs. I also got a ton of answers like "You shouldn't be trying to even tow a pop-up with a 1/2 ton."

Eventually I was pointed to the ram body builders guide which, as far as I know, is the closest thing to officially published numbers from Ram. Even with those I'm not 100% certain! But I feel confident my particular 1500's configuration means I'm rated for around 8200 lbs.
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Old 02-23-2014, 08:51 AM   #65
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I'm sure this will cause a real debate.
The general rule of thumb I use is as follows (only as the initial starting point)

1/2 ton pickup, dry hitch weight will be no more than 1/3 the maximum carrying capacity on the door jam of the vehicle.

3/4 ton pickup, dry hitch weight will be no more than 1/2 the maximum carrying capacity on the door jam of the vehicle.

1 ton, probably can pull any travel trailer

Anything else seek someone who really knows their stuff.

This is just my opinion and I always err on the side of safety. I have a 1/2 ton dodge with a carrying capacity of 1422 lbs. I settled on a surveyor sc 226rbds with a dry hitch weight of 492 lbs and all the numbers worked out fine. A higher hitch weight would put me over something.
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Old 02-23-2014, 09:39 AM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Herk7769 View Post
The door pillar has most everything you need these days.

If you plan on a travel trailer (for example), take the payload number off the pillar and subtract the weight of your family, gear and hitch of choice. Divide what is left of the payload by 0.15 for the maximum GVWR of the camper you should target.

If you are looking to buy a tow vehicle for your camper, take the GVWR of the camper and multiply it by 0.15 to find the maximum pin weight. Add your family, gear, and WD hitch weight (about 100 pounds) and shop for a truck with that available total payload.

Also make sure when you add the GVWRs of both vehicles it is less that the maximum combined weight on the pillar.

My calculators at http://www.towingplanner.com do most of what you suggest above.
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Old 02-23-2014, 09:58 AM   #67
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My calculators at http://www.towingplanner.com do most of what you suggest above.

I originally used the ones from changing gears. But that one didn't have a good explanation of what's what and I found you had to already know something about weights to really leverage it. I could see how it might be daunting to some people new to trailering. I haven't checked your site yet, but what I'd really like to see in a calculator is someone skin the doorjamb sticker and the trailer's yellow sticker so people like my mother can even punch in their numbers without trying to interpret what's what.

Edit: fixed grammar to account for interrupted train of thought, twice.
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Old 02-23-2014, 09:59 AM   #68
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Sales vs towing knowledge

Herk7769, your site is excellent. I use my numbers for quick evaluation like at the Boston RV Show to quickly size up trailers of interest. Since I could only carry 1500 lbs I only looked at trailers that weighed around 5000 lbs dry with a pin weigh of 500 lbs. if it was 5000 lbs dry with a pin weight of 900 lbs I would pass it up. After I found one I liked I would use your site to run the rest of the numbers to finish the calculations. If it was safe I would proceed from there.
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Old 02-23-2014, 10:03 AM   #69
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Herk7769, your site is excellent.
You mean Doug's Site (Ependydad).
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Old 02-23-2014, 10:04 AM   #70
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Yep my error and apology.
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