serious towing issues

[cbrady]

Well to start off i'll list my equipment so we can get that out of the way and then i will explain my problem in as much detail as possible. any and all feedback would be greatly appreciated.

Truck- 2008 Ford F350 6.4L Diesel
7" Procomp Lift
37x13.50R22
H&S mini max, S&B intake, FloPro turbo back exhaust
Firestone air helper springs
Reese pro series equilizer hitch

Trailer- 2007 29' Forest River Work and Play
Spring over conversion
12' garage, with custom frame and pro cabinets throughout

Toy- 2007 Arctic Cat Prowler


Ok here goes,

I believe i have nailed down my problem but would like all of you to confirm it or perhaps give me some more insight than i already have. When pulling my trailer it is very uncontrollable and has alot of sway, ive noticed its a little better when pulling with a different non lifted truck but i refuse to buy a different truck so thats not a option. The sway is most noticeable and the worst when going down a hill or around corners. It doesnt seem to be as bad when the trailer is loaded with water and my tool box on the hitch is loaded with jerry cans of fuel. I've bascially come to the conclusion that with the side x side and all the cabinets and contents that i have little to no tongue weight making the trailer very scary to pull. i am going to try and and some temp weight to the tongue and take it for a pull. I am contemplating having a welding shop weld steel plates to my tongue about 2/3 of the weight of my side x side to help with this condition. I believe this is the answer as i refuse to believe that my truck is the issue as i see people with lifted trucks pulling trailers all the time. Please feel free to spout off with any advice at all.

Thanks in advance

[ng2951]

I would check to be sure I had the equalizer set right. If the front end was too light you might have that problem.

Another problem might be the antisway. Check the tension.

[Woodgrain]

Have you taken the (loaded) trailer to a public scale? You want your tongue weight to be about 10~15% of the gross trailer weight.

Also, if you have a deep drop hitch due to the lift, trailer movement transfers to the TV in a rotational momentum instead of just lateral (side to side) movement when everything is aligned w/o the drop hitch. Stiffer sway bars could help or one (extreme) option it to have a goose neck tongue welded on the trailer.

[Dave_Monica]

As suggested, head to a CAT scale and do some weighing. Ideally, you'd want 13% tongue weight with all the things you want to carry in the garage of the camper, the worse case. When the garge is empty, the F350 won't have any issue handling the extra tongue weight...perhaps you'd go up a link on the W/D bars when the garage is empty.

Your set-up doesn't mention any sway control on the hitch...should have something.

Does the camper set level when hitched or nose up?

Dave

[cbrady]

Ya i will try and track down a scale around me, the drop hitch is no more of a drop than a regular hitch as i have done a spring over conversion on the trailer, equilizer hitch seems to be set correctly, tuck and trailer sit perfectly level. the only reason i figure its tongue weight is because i have towed without the bike in the back and it tows just fine as well as it tows not bad when there is water and fuel on board which is all up near the tongue of the trailer

[ironj]

Mine has the same issues when loaded down heavy and trying to haul with the nittos (35/12.5/20)...once tongue weight is near 1000lbs there is hella sway from sidewall of tires flexing......i use the stock 20's to tow at 80 psi and everythng is fine.... my 35s are trail grapplers at 65psi....maybe something to consider...you didnt say what kind of tire...mine is icon 2.5 lifted (really closer to 4" when all said n done).......icon shocks and dual steering stabilizer...no way i would EVER tow highway speeds with the bmf wheel/nitto tire combo.....?????

[cbrady]

ya im running a 37" nitto trail but with 22" rims so they dont have a lot of sidewall to flex

[ironj]

Thats still the same sidewall to rim ratio as mine....it is a lt tire, but the sidewalls are just soft i guess? I dont know, but mine tows like crap with nittos and everything adjusted correct.....slap on the stock michelins at 80psi and it tows almost as good as stock...the lift does make a diff as well...im assuming you are 4 linked?...my old rig was a 04 f150 with fabtech 4link on 35s......it towed a ski boat and small (26ft) trailer ok.....had bad sway with 31ft jayco...i never tried diff tires on that one....

[cbrady]

i hear what your saying but ive pulled this trailer without the bike in the back with the same tire setup and everything,didnt have a issue cruising down the highway at 120km in a down pour, im going to tak out a buddys 30' tomorrow, if it does it with his trailer i'll finally accept it that its the truck but im not giving up hope just yet

[Twisty]

Adding the temp weights sounds like a good idea to me. You can add or subtract to experiment and see how it goes without a big investment in equipment.

[ironj]

Yeah....you really need some scale numbers ....if your light on the tongue or your wd setup is off its a moot point anyway...the tow is gonna suck

Actually my trailer towed fine when it was empty before we loaded it.....tongue weight was about 800lbs.....now loaded the tongue is closer to 1100....and i have the sway issue when running the nittos, but not the stockers?.....its all good tho....i dont like towing with those 4k wheels n tires anyway....lol

Let us know what ya figure out.....i have a buddy with 10" of lift and 22x12 wheels and mud terrains that tows his toy hauler all over with no probs.....so it can be done...

[cbrady]

will do, at least there is hope

[RV Wizerd]

By the looks of the truck nice and stylish
does your truck have a lift kit in the suspension?

[MtnGuy]

cBrady, you show a Artic Cat Prowler in your stats, then mention a bike ??

Don't know the bike stats, but a Prowler can run 1200-1300 lbs. As presumed, if that weight is behind the trailer wheels, that is going to take a lot of weight off of the tongue. The particular model Work and Play is not listed, but most of the bigger ones have the garage area way up past the wheel wells. Moving the Arctic Cat as far forward as possible, and if possible directly over the wheels might make a huge difference.

Originally Posted by cbrady

Trailer- 2007 29' Forest River Work and Play
Spring over conversion
12' garage, with custom frame and pro cabinets throughout

If those cabinets were built behind the area of the OEM cabinets, or worse yet, behind the trailer axles, that could be the problem. You now have extra weight in the back, plus you may not be able to park the Arctic Cat as far forward as need be.

I don't know if adding metal plates to the tongue is the answer if you exceed the GVWR of the trailer......there are all sorts of frame and axle problems that might arise from that.

Can you show a floor plan of your model Work and Play, and also a picture of the inside of your trailer ??

[Woodgrain]

Originally Posted by Twisty

Adding the temp weights sounds like a good idea to me. You can add or subtract to experiment and see how it goes without a big investment in equipment.

Where is your fresh water tank located? If it front of the axels, you could fill it for balist. Water is about 8lb per gal.