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Old 09-24-2010, 09:00 AM   #1
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setting up Equalizer WDH

After doing a lot of research on the issue, I decided to switch from my Reese round-bar WDH set up to an Equalizer 12,000 # set up. My new hitch arrived from RV Wholesaler yesterday and I plan to set it up tomorrow. I have read many posts, watched the installation video, and have done a lot of research. I feel very comfortable with the job and I am ready to go. I am looking for any extra tips for the installation. Such as "a little dap of grease here..." or any other little thing not found in the manual or video. I have the type B tongue coupler on my trailer.

Ray
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Old 09-24-2010, 09:15 AM   #2
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Sorry, but I don't have any tips to give you. I set mine up following the manual's instructions. They were easy to follow and I didn't run across any problems. I'm sure you'll be able to set it up without any problems as well.

Good luck and enjoy the new hitch.
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Old 09-24-2010, 11:15 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grandpaofthree View Post
After doing a lot of research on the issue, I decided to switch from my Reese round-bar WDH set up to an Equalizer 12,000 # set up.
Any particular reason for the switch ??
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Old 09-24-2010, 11:32 AM   #4
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Any particular reason for the switch ??
My current set up does OK, but in crosswinds and passing semis, I get some sway. When I purchased the hitch, I had never used a WDH, and I didn't do any research on them. I just let the dealer sell me what they thought I needed. It uses a single friction-type sway control, which is designed to control sway once it starts, and it does do that. However, the sway can be a bit unsettling, especially for the navigator. As I understand it, the four-point sway control of the Equalizer is designed to stop sway from happening. The last reason is we plan to get a bigger TT in the next few years and we will eventually need to upgrade the hitch.

Ray
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Old 09-24-2010, 11:53 AM   #5
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Thanks for the reply. Since you have the friction-type sway control, I presume that your Reese setup didn't have the integrated dual cam anti sway control. I guess you know that if you have the round bars with the crook in the ends, that you could have added just the dual cams ??
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Old 09-24-2010, 12:11 PM   #6
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I do not have the dual cam sway control. I have the straight end round bars on mine. However, I did not know about replacing the round bars with the dual cams.

I also found that the dealer set up the hitch so my trailer is slightly nose-up. I needed a different shank with more drop in order to level out the trailer properly. My current hitch head is in its lowest position. All of the issues added up to new Equalizer hitch.
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Old 09-24-2010, 12:23 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by grandpaofthree View Post
I do not have the dual cam sway control. I have the straight end round bars on mine. However, I did not know about replacing the round bars with the dual cams.

I also found that the dealer set up the hitch so my trailer is slightly nose-up. I needed a different shank with more drop in order to level out the trailer properly. My current hitch head is in its lowest position. All of the issues added up to new Equalizer hitch.
Your decision makes sense, since you pretty much would have had to start over with the Reese system. The round bars with the flat ends won't work with the dual cams.....they need the notch in them.

Good luck with the new setup.
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Old 09-24-2010, 02:45 PM   #8
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I only ran into one problem when installing the Equalizer hitch, and that was tightening the Ball shank Nut. You need to have a socket, there is no way to do it with wrenches due to the design of the mount. The Ball nut is in a recessed area. I actually took mine back to the dealer I bought it from and they ran the nut on with an Air wrench and tourqed it for me. They did this for no charge since I bought the hitch from them.

I have noticed after towing a few times that the chrome plating on the ball was very chewed up so i am using the ball grease now.

Be sure you are on level ground when you set it up and both TT and TV should be loaded as if you are taking a trip.
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Old 09-24-2010, 10:07 PM   #9
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Ray, I'm sure you will be happy with your Equalizer - I installed one on my last and my current trailer. My few pointers:
1. Don't forget - when all else fails, read the directions!
2. Make sure your tow vehicle is at full towing weight, meaning full tanks and a few cinder blocks may be used to compensate for passengers who don't want to sit for hours waiting on you.
3. Ensure trailer is at towing weight - I usually tow with less than full fresh water, but with installing the hitch didn't have the trailer fully loaded so I just filled the fresh tank all the way. Seemed to be close enough for me.
4. Be careful when tightening the outside link plates - if they start to move on you after some use (walking) it can be very likely you have them too tight, not too loose.
5. You will be surprised at how much weight transfer difference adding a washer can make. Don't be tempted to move the L-bracket up a notch before you are at max washers. It is tempting to do this, so you won't have to "undo" the 3/4 x 5 bolts (especially after you've done that already a few times), but you will be surprised at how much difference one washer can make in the weight transfer.
6. Be ready to check, double check and triple check your measurements at the front and rear tires before making more adjustment.
7. I used a tape measure to measure vertical distance at the tires, and used a ruler placed in the same location under the fender well to ensure getting a consistent reading. Find a method that works for you.
8. I'll assume you have all the necessary tools & have the hitch ball installed first & torqued to required specs. I had my friendly mechanic do this to make sure - I don't have enough strength to trust I torqued that puppy to 450 ft lbs!.

Charlie
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Old 10-04-2010, 11:10 AM   #10
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Charlie can you elaborate more on the use of the washers, I am currently running only 4 to keep the ball more level. Is this wrong?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Char_n_Kath View Post
Ray, I'm sure you will be happy with your Equalizer - I installed one on my last and my current trailer. My few pointers:
1. Don't forget - when all else fails, read the directions!
2. Make sure your tow vehicle is at full towing weight, meaning full tanks and a few cinder blocks may be used to compensate for passengers who don't want to sit for hours waiting on you.
3. Ensure trailer is at towing weight - I usually tow with less than full fresh water, but with installing the hitch didn't have the trailer fully loaded so I just filled the fresh tank all the way. Seemed to be close enough for me.
4. Be careful when tightening the outside link plates - if they start to move on you after some use (walking) it can be very likely you have them too tight, not too loose.
5. You will be surprised at how much weight transfer difference adding a washer can make. Don't be tempted to move the L-bracket up a notch before you are at max washers. It is tempting to do this, so you won't have to "undo" the 3/4 x 5 bolts (especially after you've done that already a few times), but you will be surprised at how much difference one washer can make in the weight transfer.
6. Be ready to check, double check and triple check your measurements at the front and rear tires before making more adjustment.
7. I used a tape measure to measure vertical distance at the tires, and used a ruler placed in the same location under the fender well to ensure getting a consistent reading. Find a method that works for you.
8. I'll assume you have all the necessary tools & have the hitch ball installed first & torqued to required specs. I had my friendly mechanic do this to make sure - I don't have enough strength to trust I torqued that puppy to 450 ft lbs!.

Charlie
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