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Old 06-10-2012, 10:03 AM   #21
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Spoke with the LCI Tech re: the LCI Jack and rotating the motor 180 degrees to gain more clearance. He stated that it could not be done due to the groove structure and algnment within the covered motor head area...
As an another option, you can take the jack to a welding shop and they can rotate the triangular flange 180degrees and re-weld it.
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Old 06-10-2012, 01:30 PM   #22
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dunnc,

yes, that is another option. if the 75.00 longer shank approach doesnt work, i may pursue your alternative. prefer to keep trailer components as originally installed if posssible.
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Old 06-10-2012, 01:42 PM   #23
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dunnc,

yes, that is another option. if the 75.00 longer shank approach doesnt work, i may pursue your alternative. prefer to keep trailer components as originally installed if posssible.
It would sure reduce the stress on the hitch receiver by keeping the ball as close to the receiver as possible. A good welding shop can make the jack look just like the original and if you need replacement parts they will still fit.
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Old 06-10-2012, 01:55 PM   #24
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or could some how damage the existing jack and tell the wife you need to buy another jack and buy the one that you can reverse LOL
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Old 06-10-2012, 02:01 PM   #25
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How I solved the problem!

Quote:
Originally Posted by 4kmprs View Post
Spoke with the LCI Tech re: the LCI Jack and rotating the motor 180 degrees to gain more clearance. He stated that it could not be done due to the groove structure and algnment within the covered motor head area.

Sharing the URL to the LCI jack that I am referring to so if others have this question in the future, they know LCI's response.
http://www.lci1.com/images/Flyers/sales/lci_pt2.pdf

Also, re: Hitch/Shank Lengths...Camco offers Eaz-Lift Shanks in various lengths.

I currently have the 48121. The 48123, which is 4 in. longer, looks like it will work from a length perspective. Failed miserably though when attempting to figure out how this 4 inch additional length would impact my tongue weight though.

2a. ADJUSTABLE 2'' SQUARE SHANK HI-LOW
10'' long (comes with hitch)* 48120
12'' long (optional) 48121
14'' long (optional) 48122
16'' long (optional) 48123
http://eaz-lift.com/eazlift/Instruct...structions.pdf (page 2)

Still lots for me to learn. If anyone can assist with the impact of 4 additional inches on the shank, I would appreciate it.

Thanks.
Well contrary to what the tech told you, I turned my LCI head 90 degrees to get the clearance I needed. I found that there are four holes on the tube. The front and back holes are threaded and that is where the attaching bolts were. The other holes were not threaded so I used a tap to thread them and reattached the head in the 90 degree position that gave me the clearance. Easy fix and works with no other changes required.
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Old 06-10-2012, 02:06 PM   #26
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this is definitely a situation of trial and error. 10" is to short, 16" may be too long. i have two holes in my two inch hitch. i will attempt to use the second hole to secure the shank which will reduce the overall length by about 2". the shanks come in 12" and 14" lengths too so i guess i should be working from the 12" up and use the shortest shank possible
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Old 06-10-2012, 02:18 PM   #27
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Well contrary to what the tech told you, I turned my LCI head 90 degrees to get the clearance I needed. I found that there are four holes on the tube. The front and back holes are threaded and that is where the attaching bolts were. The other holes were not threaded so I used a tap to thread them and reattached the head in the 90 degree position that gave me the clearance. Easy fix and works with no other changes required.
Sounds like the best solution and eliminates all the other messing around and can be done in about 30 minutes or less. Even if you have to buy a 3/8 tap, it is cheaper.

Could you have rotated it 180?
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Old 06-10-2012, 04:42 PM   #28
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dunnc, my goal is to become more of a do it myselfer, but work and family leave little time for the learning curve associated with buying tools and trying things for the first time right now.

I have tackled home repairs, but truck and camper repairs are still being handles by the "experts"

great advise and ideas on this thread, but the dealer wasn't familiar with rotating the jack and i felt it was less risky to go with a longer shank than have 2 rookies mess up the tongue and jack.

i definitely will be changing length to the 12" shank first though due to the concerns raised about keeping the ball as close to the truck as possible.

thx for taking the time to respond
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Old 06-10-2012, 06:19 PM   #29
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Lightbulb

Quote:
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Sounds like the best solution and eliminates all the other messing around and can be done in about 30 minutes or less. Even if you have to buy a 3/8 tap, it is cheaper.

Could you have rotated it 180?
Yes, that was actually my 1st thought, but when I saw the holes were already there for a 90 degree turn that made more sense and made it easier to use the extend/retract and light switches.
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Old 06-10-2012, 07:58 PM   #30
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Visited the coachman forums today and there is a thread on the same topic there as well. This seems to be a rather common problem with an easy fix "the jack manufacurers could just thread all holes so the jacks can be installed in any direction". Sounds like Barker Jacks already provide this option.
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