Should I, or not....

[bikendan]

Originally Posted by Coquilleguy

Dave,
I run a Ford 150, 5.0 also and my trailer is the same as yours. The 5.0 is the largest engine that comes with a 150 stock pickup. I have not found any pull that has maxed me out, especially when using the tow package. Bigger towing vehicle is always better, but my wife is not convinced, YET,

You can get a 6.2 v-8 in a F150.
I just saw one yesterday, in a dealer lot.

http://www.pacificcoastauto.com/2014...A_10884207.veh

[PenJoe]

Do the math. You have a an approx 4.5 year old truck that you are happy with. With average driving, that would put the odometer at around 60K-75K miles. By today's standards, it's just broke in (and almost paid for). If it is a high miler, you make want to consider a trade before you do any upgrades.

Next, do you do more towing or regular driving, tow steep grades, etc. that would make more sense to switch ratios. And will you gain that much more to warrant the price. In addressing of 3.15 vs 3.75 gear ratios, this is referring to the differential as opposed to the transmission. The speedometer can be corrected via the transmission computer. It used to be a gear change for the transmission. For a 3.15 ratio differential, the drive shaft is turning 3.15 times for one turn of the wheel. For a 3.75 gear ratio, the will be 3.75 turns of the driveshaft for one turn of the wheel. That means the engine will be running at slightly higher RPMs. All else being the same, this higher ratio will cost you about 2 MPG. Now, if you are doing a lot of towing, the fuel usage may be a wash because the the 3.15 ratio is harder/longer to get mass moving. Changing the diameter of the tires can also make a difference. If you are running 20" tires vs 17" tires, the 20" tire will roll farther than a 17" tire because of the circumference. So tire size has as much to do with ratios as the differential. If that is the case sizing from 20" to 17" tires would be fairly equivalent to changing gear ratios. You would still have to have the speedo corrected.

As for beefing the suspension, you will not increase capacity. It will only help with stability and leveling. We have had Firestone Ride-Rites on our last 4 rides and they do help. LT tires are definitely a step up.

If you opt to change TVs, you may consider that the year change is rapidly approaching so the 2017s will be discounted. Also check for low mileage used with a clean CarFax. We purchased a new model with 4,000 miles that was a really good deal and a lot cheaper than new. It was transported from three states over. As you now have a 2WD and decide to go with the 3.75 gear cluster, consider one with a locking differential.

We are only giving our best advice. The ultimate decision is DW and the pocketbook. We had a similar dilemma when we sold our Southern residence. Should we trade the 2WD with locking differential for a 4x4. DW brought me to reality when she state that we replaced the Southern home with another and won't need a 4x4 for Winter driving. Why didn't I think of that?

[The_Rhino]

Originally Posted by velorandy

Love to hear some opinions & thoughts, I have a 2013 F150 5.0L Screw 2WD..... which is nearly paid for. I'm towing a Surveyor 295QBLE, which has me getting close to some of my F150 maxs.

I'm thinking about getting my trans gears changed from the factory 3.31 to 3.73, beefing up the suspension & LT tires.... or a new F250.

I know the F250 would be the quick easy answer, but I'd sure love not to have a truck payment for at least a few years.

Thoughts....

IMO it would be better to upgrade to a USED gas 3/4 ton vs. throwing more money at your 1/2 ton because you won't get any of your gearbox/tire money back if/when you trade-in... If you sell your 1/2 ton FSBO & find a good deal on a used 3/4 ton, the price-difference could be negligible...

In 2013 I purchased a used 2 year-old 2011 Ram 2500 CC 2WD w/5.7 Hemi, 3,000 payload & balance of Powertrain Warranty for only $14K & used it as my daily driver & TV for the next 4 years without any out-of-pocket expenses other than oil changes. (Although this summer I finally put some new Coopers on it & upgraded the brake discs/pads...)

Our TT is 6,500 empty w/empty hitch of 650 but ready-to-camp we're at 8,000 w/loaded tongue weight of 1200. Add our family of 5 (700) and we have a payload of 1900 without anything else added to the PU bed.

With a payload of 3,000 we bring what we want under a like-new fiberglass cap I found on CL for $500... Also, on short trips to electric-only local state parks I like to bring my own fresh water (+330 lbs. - mostly tongue weight) because there is always a line at the spigots. I can also wait to dump at our next destination if there is a long line on our way out...

[DouglasReid]

Originally Posted by velorandy

Looking for better tow performance, my F150 has been a great truck but if I can squeeze a little better tow performance... that would be great.

I was looking at, drooling, over the F250 last night.... but holy cow, $65,000 sticker for what I'd want. It would be nice to be payment free for a few years.

There is one more option you may not have considered................a good condition low mileage used truck.

Last year I purchased a 2008 Chevy 2500 with a diesel engine with only 35000 miles. The truck looked, smelled and drives like new for less than $30,000. Beat the hell out of that $65000 vehicle in m opinion.

If you do not get in a hurry and take your time those deals are out there, you just have to be patient.

[velorandy]

Originally Posted by PenJoe

Do the math. You have a an approx 4.5 year old truck that you are happy with. With average driving, that would put the odometer at around 60K-75K miles. By today's standards, it's just broke in (and almost paid for). If it is a high miler, you make want to consider a trade before you do any upgrades.

Next, do you do more towing or regular driving, tow steep grades, etc. that would make more sense to switch ratios. And will you gain that much more to warrant the price. In addressing of 3.15 vs 3.75 gear ratios, this is referring to the differential as opposed to the transmission. The speedometer can be corrected via the transmission computer. It used to be a gear change for the transmission. For a 3.15 ratio differential, the drive shaft is turning 3.15 times for one turn of the wheel. For a 3.75 gear ratio, the will be 3.75 turns of the driveshaft for one turn of the wheel. That means the engine will be running at slightly higher RPMs. All else being the same, this higher ratio will cost you about 2 MPG. Now, if you are doing a lot of towing, the fuel usage may be a wash because the the 3.15 ratio is harder/longer to get mass moving. Changing the diameter of the tires can also make a difference. If you are running 20" tires vs 17" tires, the 20" tire will roll farther than a 17" tire because of the circumference. So tire size has as much to do with ratios as the differential. If that is the case sizing from 20" to 17" tires would be fairly equivalent to changing gear ratios. You would still have to have the speedo corrected.

As for beefing the suspension, you will not increase capacity. It will only help with stability and leveling. We have had Firestone Ride-Rites on our last 4 rides and they do help. LT tires are definitely a step up.

If you opt to change TVs, you may consider that the year change is rapidly approaching so the 2017s will be discounted. Also check for low mileage used with a clean CarFax. We purchased a new model with 4,000 miles that was a really good deal and a lot cheaper than new. It was transported from three states over. As you now have a 2WD and decide to go with the 3.75 gear cluster, consider one with a locking differential.

We are only giving our best advice. The ultimate decision is DW and the pocketbook. We had a similar dilemma when we sold our Southern residence. Should we trade the 2WD with locking differential for a 4x4. DW brought me to reality when she state that we replaced the Southern home with another and won't need a 4x4 for Winter driving. Why didn't I think of that?

Lots of great info here, thank you. My F150 has 84K on it. We plan on using our TT about 8 trips a year, with varying distances of 25 to a 1000 miles. We generally tow to beach locations, which means for me flatter terrain as I leave home. Because of my small-ish TV, I'm purposely avoiding our mountains of NC.

On our inaugural voyage, my F150 dropped to 3rd gear (4000 rpm) a couple of times to maintain 60 up about a 4-5% hill.

[jtesta1]

If you change your gear ratio, theoretically you can tow more but legally your registration doesn't change only your gearing.

[velorandy]

Originally Posted by jtesta1

If you change your gear ratio, theoretically you can tow more but legally your registration doesn't change only your gearing.

I'm just looking for a little power from a gear change, not looking to add any more weight. Thanks.

[Vince and Charlette]

IMHO: Use what you've got until the wheels fall off. (Maybe just upgrade the tranny for now.) Here's the answer to enjoying the peace of being debt-free. Start now making payments to yourself, i.e. send a monthly allotment to your savings. You may not end up with enough to buy a new truck several years down the road, but at least you'll be able to take a big bite out of the cost.
As a bonus suggestion: check with your wife and see what she thinks. On major purchases, if we don't agree, then we don't go ahead with the purchase. That's why we're married!

[velorandy]

Originally Posted by Vince and Charlette

IMHO: Use what you've got until the wheels fall off. (Maybe just upgrade the tranny for now.) Here's the answer to enjoying the peace of being debt-free. Start now making payments to yourself, i.e. send a monthly allotment to your savings. You may not end up with enough to buy a new truck several years down the road, but at least you'll be able to take a big bite out of the cost.
As a bonus suggestion: check with your wife and see what she thinks. On major purchases, if we don't agree, then we don't go ahead with the purchase. That's why we're married!

I'm 56 years old, and I've had a car payment my entire adult life. I'm looking forward to not having a payment in the near future. Time to save and think about what lies ahead. Right now we are also looking at the added expense of two teenagers going to college. So, with that said, I'd like to make this F150 work for sometime to come.

This forum is really a great tool, thanks everybody for their suggestions and opinions.

[itat]

Your Surveyor is a 33' TT and it only weighs under 6000# and a tongue weight of 770#? I think those are brochure numbers not real world numbers. Have you actually weighed it to get your real world, loaded weights? What is the GVWR of your 2013 F-150? I recommend you get your setup weighed when fully loaded if you haven't already, just so you have the full story.

The pulling power is probably less of an issue than the payload capacity, especially with your family on board. I have a 32' TT and I was 600# over my '09 F-150's GVWR.

As others said, suspension and tire upgrades won't improve payload and payload is always the first rating to be exceeded. If and by how much you're willing to exceed your GVWR and axles ratings is up to you.

A better gear ratio may provide more pulling performance but that's likely not your biggest shortfall.

[eaglecrest]

I have a 2013 F150 crew Ecoboost. I pull a 8000 empty weight trailer and will reach close to 9500 loaded. I set the cruse at 65 for 7 percent grades and 75 for flat on the interstate (speed limit) - I travel the Rockies mainly. I average between 11 and 12 pulling the trailer and 21 empty. I thought about an F250, but my son convinced me on the F150 Eco. There's a test group in Denver that tests trucks up I70 to Vail. The 3.5 Six Eco is really amazing.

[ddbck]

Get the F250 you will never look back!

[ddbck]

Originally Posted by eaglecrest

I have a 2013 F150 crew Ecoboost. I pull a 8000 empty weight trailer and will reach close to 9500 loaded. I set the cruse at 65 for 7 percent grades and 75 for flat on the interstate (speed limit) - I travel the Rockies mainly. I average between 11 and 12 pulling the trailer and 21 empty. I thought about an F250, but my son convinced me on the F150 Eco. There's a test group in Denver that tests trucks up I70 to Vail. The 3.5 Six Eco is really amazing.

Lol, stop exaggerating!

[eaglecrest]

Just like politics - the truth is hard to swallow.

[m35a2]

Originally Posted by velorandy

I do have the tow package (not the Max Tow Package), which included a transmission cooler.

Our inaugural trip with our new Surveyor, my transmission temperature ranged between 201-203° with an outside temperature in the low 90's.

Just for comparison, pulling my camper into and out of Tucson in 110 degree weather, trans temp never got above 173. I had an odb adapter plugged in and was logging. I was fairly impressed. Trip in was in a 2500, trip out was in a 3500 (traded while I was in Tucson).

I've always been a Ford guy, went with the Dodge this time because it seemed comparable but at a cheaper price. I'm really happy with it.

Antlers up!

[325BH]

Originally Posted by m35a2

Just for comparison, pulling my camper into and out of Tucson in 110 degree weather, trans temp never got above 173. I had an odb adapter plugged in and was logging. I was fairly impressed. Trip in was in a 2500, trip out was in a 3500 (traded while I was in Tucson).



I've always been a Ford guy, went with the Dodge this time because it seemed comparable but at a cheaper price. I'm really happy with it.



Antlers up!

The reason for the temp difference is where the manufacturers have the thermostat set.

My 2016 F250's trans temp runs 200 degrees whether empty in spring or pulling 11,000 lbs up a grade in summer.

[325BH]

Originally Posted by eaglecrest

I have a 2013 F150 crew Ecoboost. I pull a 8000 empty weight trailer and will reach close to 9500 loaded. I set the cruse at 65 for 7 percent grades and 75 for flat on the interstate (speed limit) - I travel the Rockies mainly. I average between 11 and 12 pulling the trailer and 21 empty. I thought about an F250, but my son convinced me on the F150 Eco. There's a test group in Denver that tests trucks up I70 to Vail. The 3.5 Six Eco is really amazing.

The problem isn't the ecoboost, it is the 1/2-ton truck.

Those that step up to a bigger truck never look back.

[m2kamp]

Originally Posted by 325BH

The problem isn't the ecoboost, it is the 1/2-ton truck.

Those that step up to a bigger truck never look back.

I think the primary reasons the ecoboost is not available in the Super Duty's is they are not robust enough to handle being maxed out daily (like most HD trucks are) and the lack of engine braking required to hold back 20k lb+ weights going down the other side of the mountains. IMO this is why 6.2L gas not 3.5L ecoboost in Super Duty.

[Pauls Toy Hauler]

IMhumbleO, what you have is probably fine for now. like others have said save the money plus whatever equity your paid off truck gives will help lower the cost. Maybe get you a used super duty. I say that but I'm not a used truck kind of guy so take it for what it's worth.


However.......I've never really been concerned with towing power as much as I have been with something that adds mass to my stopping power. I live by the adage "It's not what you can pull it's what you can stop" fortunately taking care of the latter most definitely exceeds the first.


Good luck with your future adventure........but yeah....it's nice not having a payment. It will be a while for me as I recently upgraded from a 250 SRW to a 350 DRW

[Hersbird]

Keep what you have and keep it stock. You don't tow enough to justify any changes. Just use a lower gear and go slower those 15 mins a year you are going up a big hill, don't be afraid to use the RPM on a gas motor. I already wish I just kept my Hemi instead of getting a Cummins this year and I towed more than ever. Still it doesn't get enough of a difference in MPG (picked up 20%), doesn't have that much more power, and when not towing it is not near as nice to drive as the 1500. Off road it beats the heck out of you as well. Thank goodness the 2004 Cummins 6 speed is considered gold and I'll get my money back and then some. I'm going to go with an ecodiesel 1500 next time and hope for the best of both worlds. In the future when you really need to get something bigger, for now drive it as is, I wish I had.