Solved Adjusting Weight Distribution Hitch - Page 2

Triguy · 06-20-2012, 12:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by myredracer

Am interesting in hearing about the science (or art?) of setting these up. Not clear on how tilting the ball can have much of an influence? Ours was set up at a hitch shop.

Quote:

Originally Posted by myredracer

Okay, so now I see that the spacer washer have the same effect as adding or removing links for the bars. Ours has 7 washers plus a thicker, smaller dia. one.

I can see how that if you had no washers at all that you would little or no effect from adjusting links. Looks like the key to the quantity of washers is having the right number so that you are able to add or subtract 2-3 links or so from a mid-point setting.

You got it!

You can think about this a number of ways (this helps me): Tilting the hitch head back (down) allows for additional tension from the spring bars. Tilting toward the TT will add pressure to the spring bars, thus transferring more weight to the TV's front axle and TT axles. Practically speaking, by tilting the head back, you effectively point the front of the spring bars down more. Then, hooking up to the same link or L-bracket hole on whatever WDH you are using will give you more weight transfer.

Remember that the ultimate goal is to transfer the appropriate weight for your setup. Using our understanding as described above, you can do this with a combination of two things: Hitch head tilt and/or raising or lowering your chains (Reese, Eaz Lift) or L-brackets (Equal-i-zer)

Describing in terms of the Reese WDH, for example, if the front of the TV is too high, you can increase the head tilt and/or decrease the tensioned chain link count to achieve more spring bar tension. Effectively transferring more weight to the front of the TV and to the trailer axles. Conversely, if the front is too low, you can decrease the head tilt and/or increase the tensioned chain link count to achieve less spring bar tension.

And, plan to do these adjustments more than one time. Your setup may need to be changed slightly at times to accommodate changes in your towing configuration, even including during the same trip.

Quote:

Originally Posted by myredracer

Would have thought that the ball height above the ground would make more of a difference?

As for the ball, the height of the ball must be determined before any assembly work can be started. That is done before any of the above is setup so its not really used as a means of adjusting for too little or too much weight.

demoore · 06-20-2012, 10:14 PM

Travyp...I use a 1000# with the chains. I hook the 4th chain for tension. Sits perfectly level to ground. Don't remember brand name though. Last truck did not like the weight of the camper and i felt it was too unsafe. 2500hd was worth the $ and state of mind.

travyp · 06-25-2012, 10:55 AM

I thought I would update this thread for everyone's benefit. My Eaz-Lift WDH didn't come with the washers it was supposed to have. I didn't think much of it since the rivet to make the head pivot was threaded, I thought it was a new design. Well let me tell you, they are incredibly important. All that weight trashed the threads. It was crappy but not a big deal. I happened to be visiting the parents so they could hang out with the grandson so dad and I set out to Menards to get some washers. Got it all back together and everything is working great now. Only other thing I had to do was to buy a cheap hydraulic jack that I can carry with me. That is the only way I can put enough tension on the bars to get the trailer level like it should be. I simply jack up the chain end of the bar and then clip it up into the chain holders. Works like a charm.

cyclepuck · 06-25-2012, 11:01 AM

You can also use the tongue jack once coupled to tv lift with tongue jack to take tension off bars making it easier to snap chain bracket.

LadyWindrider · 06-25-2012, 11:32 AM

Once you get the coupler locked on the ball, use the tongue jack as stated, to pick up the trailer and tow vehicle. This will transfer weight back to the front of the tow vehicle, same thing the bars are doing. It will also verify that your coupling is down on the ball, and locked. Several years back someone had a trailer come loose while towing. After looking at pics and all, question was, did it ever get hooked up correctly? Never seen one come uncoupled that was hooked correctly, and using the jack to raise it all will verify.
I pick mine up high enough I can snap the chains up by hand, don't use the cheater bar. I would be afraid a jack under the bar ends might "kick" and hurt someone, mainly me.

Oh, that is why I also bought an electric jack.

travyp · 06-25-2012, 01:16 PM

I do lift the truck with the electric jack. It just doesn't lift it enough. Maybe I could lift it more but I am afraid of burning out the jack. I can get chains hooked up but I need more chains to transfer more weight. As far as using the jack, it is a floor jack not a bottle jack so it is sturdy. I don't get anywhere near it though (well except to reach the handle). I put the ends of the U bolt into the cup for the jack and it isn't going anywhere.

MtnGuy · 06-25-2012, 01:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by travyp

I can get chains hooked up but I need more chains to transfer more weight.

To transfer more weight to the front of the tow vehcle, you need fewer chain lengths under tension between the spring bars and snap up brackets.

If you are having that much trouble getting the chains installed, you may have too much weight distributed to the tow vehicle front axle. I suggest either getting to some scales or doing fender measurements.

travyp · 06-25-2012, 01:37 PM

You are right, I mean't look at it as how many chains hang free. I don't count how many are actually hooked up but it is the same in the end. Like I said, maybe I can use the tongue jack more than I do but I feel like I am going to burn it out. Maybe I am just paranoid. If I break my $20 floor jack I will be less upset than if I burn out my $200 or more electric jack.

**Terier** · 06-25-2012, 02:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by travyp

You are right, I mean't look at it as how many chains hang free. I don't count how many are actually hooked up but it is the same in the end. Like I said, maybe I can use the tongue jack more than I do but I feel like I am going to burn it out. Maybe I am just paranoid. If I break my $20 floor jack I will be less upset than if I burn out my $200 or more electric jack.

Just curious but how many links do you drop before hooking on the saddles? I think you phased it has hanging free.

travyp · 06-25-2012, 02:14 PM

I have 3 hanging (so I am hooked on the 4th chain link) and the bars are pretty much exactly level with the frame.

MtnGuy · 06-25-2012, 09:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by travyp

I have 3 hanging (so I am hooked on the 4th chain link) and the bars are pretty much exactly level with the frame.

Check with your WDH maker to make sure there is not a minimum chain length required. I know that Reese has a minimum of 5 links under tension, but other WDH manufacturers may have different figures. During a turn, the bars will move backwards or forwards, and the minimum chain length for that particular WDH manufacturer may be important to allow that movement.

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