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Old 06-18-2012, 12:32 PM   #11
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You can get bars too stiff, especially with a light weight trailer. Your trailer isn't light, so probably not. If a dealer put the hitch on, maybe he'll let you borrow some bars in the parking lot, and then do your adjusting and measuring, etc. Of course, then you'd better buy the new bars from him, or work a trade.

As for 1400 pound bars, I've only seen those in trunnion style. The biggest round bars I have found are 1200 pound, at least in Reese dual cam set up.
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Old 06-18-2012, 01:28 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Triguy View Post
They don't? What hitch do you have again?

These manuals show that both models of Eaz lift use washers to tilt the head.
I have the version with the PDF labeled the Elite. I will have to take a picture tonight to show you. If you open the PDF and look at the parts diagram I believe I have #13 on the bottom and then 12a on the top but i don't have the 12b washers. Maybe I am supposed to and they didn't provide them? What is their purpose? To take the load off of the rivet and threads? I already have just under $300 stuck into this setup. If I buy new bars, they will be $85 each so I think what I will do is just try to sell the setup as is to get some of my money back and then buy a better unit like the equilizer hitch or something similar. Although I had good results with my last wdh like this one, it doesn't appear to be enough for my current trailer.
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Old 06-18-2012, 01:30 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by windrider View Post
You can get bars too stiff, especially with a light weight trailer. Your trailer isn't light, so probably not. If a dealer put the hitch on, maybe he'll let you borrow some bars in the parking lot, and then do your adjusting and measuring, etc. Of course, then you'd better buy the new bars from him, or work a trade.

As for 1400 pound bars, I've only seen those in trunnion style. The biggest round bars I have found are 1200 pound, at least in Reese dual cam set up.
I actually found 1400 but not 1200 Camco 48094 Eaz-Lift Elite Spring Bar 1400 lb Camper Trailer RV
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Old 06-18-2012, 02:04 PM   #14
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I have the version with the PDF labeled the Elite. I will have to take a picture tonight to show you. If you open the PDF and look at the parts diagram I believe I have #13 on the bottom and then 12a on the top but i don't have the 12b washers. Maybe I am supposed to and they didn't provide them? What is their purpose? To take the load off of the rivet and threads? I already have just under $300 stuck into this setup. If I buy new bars, they will be $85 each so I think what I will do is just try to sell the setup as is to get some of my money back and then buy a better unit like the equilizer hitch or something similar. Although I had good results with my last wdh like this one, it doesn't appear to be enough for my current trailer.
Hi again.

The purpose of the washers is to allow you to tilt the hitch to transfer more or less weight. You should have received 8 of them.

I admit that I have never used your setup so I'm going by the manual, but the use of washers is commonplace is similar WDH from other manufacturers like Equal-i-zer.

To correct under adjustment (adding weight to the front axle thereby lowering the front) you must add more weight distribution force to the hitch by adding spacer washers or raising the ends of your spring bars.

I prefer to add washers (stay within the range they recommend - 0 to 8) while keeping the spring bars parallel to the frame.
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Old 06-19-2012, 11:14 PM   #15
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I have the same trailer. Went from 2010 Sierra 1/2 ton to 2011 2500 HD with Duramax....solved all problems.
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Old 06-20-2012, 08:59 AM   #16
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I have the same trailer. Went from 2010 Sierra 1/2 ton to 2011 2500 HD with Duramax....solved all problems.
I figured this would solve the issue. You know how it goes with the dealers. "Oh yeah, you can pull that." I am staying within 120 miles of my home all this summer. No long trips so I am getting my ducks in a row to upgrade in the spring. I can't wait to have a proper truck. Question for you though since you have the same trailer. What WDH do you have? I am still thinking about selling this one and getting an equalizer or something similar. Is it worth it or do you have the chain style and it works fine now?
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Old 06-20-2012, 12:30 PM   #17
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Am interesting in hearing about the science (or art?) of setting these up. Not clear on how tilting the ball can have much of an influence? Ours was set up at a hitch shop. Would have thought that the ball height above the ground would make more of a difference?

I had thought that it was simply a matter of setting the number of links so that the truck sits level and Bob's your uncle. But then I found that when sitting at a stoplight in the rain, if I hit the gas hard, the rear wheels would spin. So I added one link and it seems to be okay now. Am wondering what will happen if I load the bed up with a lot of heavy stuff one day. Would I need to remove a link to help compensate?

I notice the OP has an older F-150 like we do. (Ours is a 2000.) I replaced the shocks recently. They seemed okay but I found the fronts were badly worn. I installed a set of Bilstein gas shocks and all I can say is, wow what a difference. Handles really smooth and steady at high speeds on the freeway and cornering is a dream. Can hardly tell there is a trailer behind the truck now...

One trick I have learned about these WDHs is to tension up the bars before you lower the hitch on to the ball. So much easier. Another thing I learned after just two trips out was that one of the retaining pins that holds the bar in place had fallen out because it got hung up on the spring clip. Bought a couple of spares in case this ever happens while out on a trip.
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Old 06-20-2012, 12:54 PM   #18
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I just recently set mine step by step according to directions from manufacture. Took a little time but ended up with the front sitting the same height loaded vs unloaded by tilting head a little more.
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Old 06-20-2012, 01:18 PM   #19
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Okay, so now I see that the spacer washer have the same effect as adding or removing links for the bars. Ours has 7 washers plus a thicker, smaller dia. one.

I can see how that if you had no washers at all that you would little or no effect from adjusting links. Looks like the key to the quantity of washers is having the right number so that you are able to add or subtract 2-3 links or so from a mid-point setting.
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Old 06-20-2012, 01:22 PM   #20
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Okay, so now I see that the spacer washer have the same effect as adding or removing links for the bars. Ours has 7 washers plus a thicker, smaller dia. one.

I can see how that if you had no washers at all that you would little or no effect from adjusting links. Looks like the key to the quantity of washers is having the right number so that you are able to add or subtract 2-3 links or so from a mid-point setting.
You got it.
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