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Old 09-07-2014, 09:50 AM   #11
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One thing to remember no matter which method you use is if you need to stop DO NOT set a parking brake when they are hot.
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Old 09-07-2014, 09:56 AM   #12
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One thing to remember no matter which method you use is if you need to stop DO NOT set a parking brake when they are hot.
58 yrs of driving and never heard that one before. Know it is not wise to set the parking brake if you have been driving in freezing conditions in snow/slush as the cables could freeze on the older cars, but never just because the brakes were hot. I guess we live and learn.
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Old 09-07-2014, 10:01 AM   #13
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One thing to remember no matter which method you use is if you need to stop DO NOT set a parking brake when they are hot.
This is exactly true. The brake pads will not cool (no air in contact with them) and the temperatures at the pad face can actually melt the metallic/resin brake materials and fuse the pad to the steel drum/rotor.

This mishap was caused by setting the parking brake after a heavy weight maximum braked landing without the required 15 minute cool down.

The subsequent takeoff resulted in a tire explosion from the heat transferred to the tire instead of the air.

"58 yrs of driving and never heard that one before. Know it is not wise to set the parking brake if you have been driving in freezing conditions in snow/slush as the cables could freeze on the older cars, but never just because the brakes were hot. I guess we live and learn."

We do indeed...
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Old 09-07-2014, 10:09 AM   #14
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This is exactly true. The brake pads will not cool (no air in contact with them) and the temperatures at the pad face can actually melt the metallic/resin brake materials and fuse the pad to the steel drum/rotor.

This mishap was caused by setting the parking brake after a heavy weight maximum braked landing without the required 15 minute cool down.

The subsequent takeoff resulted in a tire explosion from the heat transferred to the tire instead of the air.

"58 yrs of driving and never heard that one before. Know it is not wise to set the parking brake if you have been driving in freezing conditions in snow/slush as the cables could freeze on the older cars, but never just because the brakes were hot. I guess we live and learn."

We do indeed...
Never been in the situation from having to hard use the brakes and then set the parking brake. Just lucky I guess. Usually takes me at least 10 -15 minutes to travel to an area to park after being in the mountains, etc. where hard braking is required. Something to definitely consider.
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Old 09-07-2014, 10:28 AM   #15
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The OP says it's a 3 mile 6% grade. It's not that long. I did the OTR thing for years and even owned couple big trucks.
The posters above that mentioned letting your engine and tranny do most of the work and using intermittent brake pressure that allows air to dissipate some of the heat are correct. You'll be fine.
I've been down the 6% 17 mile grade on I-17 between Flagstaff and Phoenix. The TV was 3/4 ton without an engine brake (jake brake) and loaded pretty heavy. Had no problems.
Typically a long grade will have recommended speed for big trucks. I recommend staying at or below that speed.



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Old 09-07-2014, 10:28 AM   #16
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To the OP,

If you're concerned about overheating run it in the morning or whenever it's cooler. I pick a gear and stay in my turbo with out winding anything up rpm wise. I don't like my tranny hunting gears on my auto. I did the same when I had a standard.
I do the same down hill and never ride my brakes.


To the others good beer drinking arguments. I understand the issues of setting the parking brake in hot conditions... But application on cold should be wet and freezing conditions (I believe) but is this valid with disc brakes vs drum?

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Old 09-07-2014, 10:36 AM   #17
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To the others good beer drinking arguments. I understand the issues of setting the parking brake in hot conditions... But application on cold should be wet and freezing conditions (I believe) but is this valid with disc brakes vs drum? Salt
This is just opinion of course, but I would be hesitant to set the parking brake in freezing/wet conditions with discs as well. Those pads/calipers can also freeze in the "applied" state almost as easily as the drum type.
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Old 09-07-2014, 10:37 AM   #18
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...But application on cold should be wet and freezing conditions (I believe) but is this valid with disc brakes vs drum? Salt
It was very valid on the older 50's-70's drum rear brakes. Not so much anymore, but I don't have to contend with it anymore living in NC and going to FL in late Nov until mid Mar.
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Old 09-07-2014, 10:39 AM   #19
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Never been in the situation from having to hard use the brakes and then set the parking brake. Just lucky I guess. Usually takes me at least 10 -15 minutes to travel to an area to park after being in the mountains, etc. where hard braking is required. Something to definitely consider.
I was thinking more of the "pull over and prolonged stop" after, perhaps, a "panic stop" or stop sign/red light/RR crossing at the bottom of a grade situation.
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Old 09-07-2014, 10:48 AM   #20
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I was thinking more of the "pull over and prolonged stop" after, perhaps, a "panic stop" or stop sign/red light/RR crossing at the bottom of a grade situation.
The only time I use the emergency brake is when I am parking the rig like at a rest stop/restaurant/gas station. I will shift to neutral, set the brake and then shift to park to keep pressure off the tranny park pin/pawl. I've just never encountered the situation you described, but I will definitely keep it in mind. Good advice.
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