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Old 10-01-2012, 06:48 PM   #21
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Got it. No wonder, I was like WTF the reviewers raved about this product, the sway control doesn't make any difference driving over 250 miles this past weekend .

Road King,

Does the second sway control help?
I started in '76 with one and in '77 went with 2 and used both on both rv trailer and racecar trailers. Much more sway control. Still have them for the racecar trailer, but we tradeded for a 12 Flagstaff 8528RKWS 5er in Feb so we don't need them except for the rc trailer which just sits nowadays which is for sale complete with a dirt track dwarf car. lol
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Old 10-01-2012, 07:08 PM   #22
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If your trailer is over 28' you should have 2 sway control bars. Plus do not forget to remove the bars before backing up. You can do major damage to the head of the receiver. Don't ask me how I know but it was and expensive lesson to learn.
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Old 10-01-2012, 07:14 PM   #23
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Sway "Control" vs "Sway elimination"

Yes, a Hensley or ProPride hitch ELIMINATES sway. Yes, you can set up a "sway control" and drive in a controlled safe manner for 8000 miles and not detect any sway. But, I can drive your set up 8 miles and MAKE the trailer sway.

With a Hensley or ProPride you cannot MAKE it sway, believe me I have tried at 75 mph on a downhill with a 35 foot trailer on an F-150, cannot make it SWAY, because the ball is eliminated with this tupe of hitch.

If you really want a relaxed drive (especially on down hill slopes) with a long Ultra-light trailer make the investment in a Hensley or ProPride.
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Old 10-01-2012, 07:19 PM   #24
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If your trailer is over 28' you should have 2 sway control bars. Plus do not forget to remove the bars before backing up. You can do major damage to the head of the receiver. Don't ask me how I know but it was and expensive lesson to learn.
Don't know what happened to yours, but I never unhooked or loosened the sway bars when backing. You must have put them in a heck of a bind turning while backing.
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Old 10-01-2012, 07:38 PM   #25
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"The product installation instructions for part number 3400 states that, on some installations, damage to the sway control may occur during extremely sharp turning maneuvers. This can be checked by slowly backing the vehicle into a jackknife position while someone is watching. You should not allow the slide bar to contact completely (bottom out) and the sway control should not contact the bumper. If it looks as though contact will be made or the sway control will bottom out, then the sway control must be removed before backing up the trailer. If not, when backing for short distances in situations where tight maneuvering is not a concern, the sway control can be left on."

For the little effort needed to remove the bars why take the risk of doing damage.

"A popular accessory to the weight distribution system is the sway control. Trailer sway can be caused by crosswinds, poor trailer loading (load too far back), or inadequate spring bar tension. The use of a weight distributing hitch by itself will help improve trailer sway, but some additional products can help eliminate it. Trailer sway can be controlled with three different types of systems. NOTE: Friction sway controls should be removed in inclement weather and when backing up." This is from the company web site.
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Old 10-01-2012, 07:48 PM   #26
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I too was taught to remove my sway bar when backing up. If I only backing up in a straight line for a short distance I will usually leave it on.

I was also warned about over tightening the sway bar. I'm willing to say that chances are I don't have it as tight as many members here are suggesting. My system works well and I never had any sway even on the freeway with semi trucks passing. Towing speed here in SoCal is 55 mph so I get passed a lot.
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Old 10-01-2012, 07:52 PM   #27
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I too was taught to remove my sway bar when backing up. If I only backing up in a straight line for a short distance I will usually leave it on.

I was also warned about over tightening the sway bar. I'm willing to say that chances are I don't have it as tight as many members here are suggesting. My system works well and I never had any sway even on the freeway with semi trucks passing. Towing speed here in SoCal is 55 mph so I get passed a lot.
It's the sharp turns while backing you have to be concerned with. Backing and turning doesn't put anymore load on the sway bars than turning while going forward. You just can't jackknife while backing.
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Old 10-01-2012, 08:42 PM   #28
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It's the sharp turns while backing you have to be concerned with. Backing and turning doesn't put anymore load on the sway bars than turning while going forward. You just can't jackknife while backing.
And that makes sense to me.

But on another note - I found it much easier to back into my spot at the storage place if I remove the anti-sway bar first. I have to back up and turn into the spot due to the design of the parking area. With it on the trailer kept drifting to the next space over.
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Old 10-01-2012, 08:58 PM   #29
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And that makes sense to me.

But on another note - I found it much easier to back into my spot at the storage place if I remove the anti-sway bar first. I have to back up and turn into the spot due to the design of the parking area. With it on the trailer kept drifting to the next space over.
If I got into a real tight spot, I removed the sway bars and the torsion bars because with the chains, it really puts a bind on everything. Only had to do this maybe 3 or 4 times in 35yrs of using a WDH. Once in a parking lot where I got boxed in and had to back into a ditch and took everything off to get more wt on the truck to pull out of the ditch. Never parked again where I could get boxed in.
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Old 10-01-2012, 10:48 PM   #30
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Just a general question. I have the Husky chain WDH with the friction sway control bar. I am reading reviews of the other newer WDH such as the Equalizer 4 pt sway. Does the Equalizer work better than the one I have?

Btw, I have a 22' bumper to tongue and advertised dry weight of 3926 lbs with 416 lbs hitch weight (2006 Thor Summit 22RB).
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