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Old 10-24-2012, 09:42 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by PBallie1602 View Post
Thanks! Its hard not to be discouraged. My husband is not mechanical at all so he can't start adjusting this himself and when we spent $25000 on a new TT I had no idea this would be an issue until after the fact. And my son was in the truck the other day and I was scared out of my mind. It was no fun.

i know exactly how you feel, and i understand your frustration with the situation.....in fact im willing to bet that a LOT of the people who buy a trailer and then dont use it, sell it, or traded it for a fifth wheel because of a percieved notion that travel trailers dont tow well are due to the fact they never get thier hitch settings set correctly.

while a hensly or propride (i would go propride myself) will more than likely fix all that ails you in the towing department, I STILL stand by my recommendation to take it to someone knowledgeable and have them adjust it correctly for you......THEN take it to a cat scale and weigh it! that will give you everything you need to KNOW if its adjusted right....AND save you 2500+$....heck, just come on here and give us your scale numbers and we can tell you if its right...

THEN if you still dont like the tow, your only out a bit of time and a few dollars, and you can STILL purchase and install a hensly/propride...

if i had been new to towing, and had the results i got with my NEW 3/4 ton diesel and NEW 35ft trailer as the dealer sent me home with i too would be looking at a fifth wheel as soon as i hit the door......but i knew better, and KNEW that even with my cheap wd hitch system that it was not right....and now that same "cheap" wd hitch makes my trailer pull like a dream, and just as steady as my 40ft enclosed gooseneck car hauler.....

in the end there is NO price you can put on your sanity or familys safety...so if it takes a hensly, then so be it...we all just want to help you enjoy your trailer and the experience of camping. We all just wanna !!!
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Old 10-24-2012, 09:51 AM   #22
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Ok since you have no experience I can tell by your statements you only have a WDH with no sway arms/bars. On your hitch, on each side of the main ball, should be either one or two small balls, that is where the sway control connects. With a trailer the length you have 2 are better than one. When you said your hubby adjusted the chains, that told me you don't have sway control, and adjusting the chains will never have anything to do with sway
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Old 10-24-2012, 10:00 AM   #23
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Ok since you have no experience I can tell by your statements you only have a WDH with no sway arms/bars. On your hitch, on each side of the main ball, should be either one or two small balls, that is where the sway control connects. With a trailer the length you have 2 are better than one. When you said your hubby adjusted the chains, that told me you don't have sway control, and adjusting the chains will never have anything to do with sway
OP states that they have an EZ Lift Sway Control Bar. I don't know how to adjust those.....can maybe someone with that system tell the OP how to adjust that ??
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Old 10-24-2012, 10:06 AM   #24
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Trailer Sway Control by Hensley

Watch the video clip it tells all, you can adjust and weigh all you day at the end all you will have is sway "control", I tried all these things years ago and I'm Scottish I don't like to waste money I just wanted to tow without white knuckles.
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Old 10-24-2012, 10:07 AM   #25
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the standard eaz lift sway is just a friction bar with a rod you tighthen....im assuming thats what she has?...but now reading back in the posts its not all that clear....

and yes, over/under adjusting the chains can induce more sway....remember your picking up the entire rear axle and its load the more you crank them down....ive seen demos where the entire rear of a truck was suspended with the wdh bars.......

also i believe the model of trailer is a 272bh....which should be more than withing the capacity of the f250....unless she is loading the bed with drums of water and firewood...lol
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Old 10-24-2012, 10:09 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by PBallie1602 View Post
Thanks you! I am def taking notes so I know what to ask when I take to the hitch pros!
Found this on-line when I was setting my WDH up. Print this out and take it to whoever you get to set up your hitch.

Quote:
"Park the TT and truck on level ground... Level the TT (using the tongue jack) by measuring the frame front and back with reference to ground level... Measure from ground level to inside top of trailer ball coupler... Record this measurement...

Set unloaded ball height on truck hitch head about 1/2' to 1" higher than this measurement... The exact amount will depend on the stiffness of your truck suspension...

Measure all four truck wheel wells with trailer unhooked... Record this measurement...

Hook up trailer and snap up w/d bars so TT appears to be level... Measure truck wheel well distance again... If front of truck is same height as, or slightly higher than, the unhitched height, you're done (not likely on the first try!!)...
If front of truck is not at or close to the unhitched height, adjust w/d bars as necessary...
If the front is too high, you may have to increase w/d head tilt and/or decrease tensioned chain link count to achieve more w/d bar tension...
If the front is too low, you may have to decrease w/d head tilt and/or increase tensioned chain link count to achieve less w/d bar tension...

The amount of tension required will depend on TT tongue weight and on TV and TT dimensions...

Round style W/D bars should be parallel with trailer frame when these adjustments are complete... If W/D bars are not level with TT frame using a given number of chain links (5 minimum) or the trunnion bars are not slanted downward slightly, tilt w/d bars up or down with adjustment screw, washers, etc., (whatever method is employed on your hitch) and readjust as required, dropping or picking up chain links as needed for necessary tension while maintaining a level condition to the TT frame...

Check the truck's front end height again after these adjustments...

Most hitch manufacturers want to see at least 5 chain links between the snap up plates and w/d bars (under tension)... This is to avoid binding of the w/d bars in turns and when backing...

Once you have achieved the proper truck front end height, check TT for levelness again... If TT is not level, adjust ball height on hitch head as necessary to level TT... If you can't achieve perfectly level, opt for a bit nose down... This will increase TT rear end clearance on sloping driveways and add a bit more hitch weight as the TT center of gravity shifts forward a bit with the nose down...
All these adjustments will interact with one another to some degree so a few readjustments will most likely be required...

When you are done, the w/d bars should be level (except trunnion w/d bars), the TT should be level and the front of the truck should be close to or slightly above the unhitched height...

It's pretty tough to get everything EXACTLY perfect, but get the TT as close to level as you can and the front of the truck as close to the unhitched height as you can... My truck is almost equal squat, maybe a 1/4" lower in the back... Avoid the front end of the truck being lower than the unhitched height... This indicates too much weight is being transferred to the front axle and could cause handling problems and excessive front tire wear...
My TT is level within 1/4" front to rear, being a bit nose down... My w/d bars have an upward set to them, but the Pullrite hitch adjustment is a bit different than others as it's w/d bars do not flex like a normal w/d hitch... So that part is pretty normal for my Pullrite hitch...

The procedure sounds difficult but really is not... It can be a bit tedious trying to achieve a perfect condition, but is not difficult... You should be pretty near perfect after a few readjustments and you'll probably find your TT tows and handles much better...

I have seldom seen a hitch adjustment from a dealership that couldn't be improved on with a bit of fine adjustment...
Best Regards,
Les"
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Old 10-24-2012, 10:18 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by mtnguy View Post
OP states that they have an EZ Lift Sway Control Bar. I don't know how to adjust those.....can maybe someone with that system tell the OP how to adjust that ??
mtnguy, that is a normal sway system with the steel flat bar sandwiched between two brake like materials.



I have two of these bars on my setup. I turn the adjustment handle on them until I can not turn them anymore then back off 1/4 to 1/2 turn.
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Old 10-24-2012, 11:21 AM   #28
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From what I am hearing both the TV tires and the TT tires should be at max pressure and I need to check and make sure BOTH are good brands. My TV does have good tires, but we bought the truck not too long ago 'used' and the dum dum who had it NEVER rotated the tires so the tread wear is wobbly. I wonder if this might be adding to it too. The TT tires are just what came w/ the TT, but they have nitrogen not air in them...
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Old 10-24-2012, 11:30 AM   #29
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Whoops missed all the other post. You guys are really great! I am printing off all this stuff and I am going to take it to the hitch people and then take to a weigh station. If it is still a problem I will have to invest in a Hensley, but it is a problem finding someone to install them... I do have the EAZ Lift sway control bar and a WDH (the 2 lower bars connected by chains) and yes it is the Salem 272BH (need to fix my signature) and the deisel F250 should pull it NP.
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Old 10-24-2012, 11:58 AM   #30
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I think you will get it together and be able to enjoy your camping sooner than later!

Lots of very helpful people here!
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Old 10-24-2012, 03:48 PM   #31
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hang in there, just get some adjustments done. I used to have a fifth wheel, and when I got this TT, and drvoe it home from the dealer, i almost turned around and went back for another fifth wheel.
Once I took the time to adjust my hitch correctly, It tows great now. Still not the same as a fifth wheel, but it is pretty damn close. Since I have the Reese Dual Cam system, (which you can find online for less then $600 and I still recommend) i cant really help you with your adjustments, but it sounds like everyone else on here has got you turned in the right direction. Adjust it, weight it, problem solved..
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Old 10-24-2012, 03:56 PM   #32
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The worst part of being a owner of a Hensley is trying to explain to some one just how well it works. I would run out of space. So if you want to continue to adjust and play with tire pressure every time you're on the road and while you're on the road, keep your current set up. If you want to hookup and go, get the Hensley, it is an investment you will have as long as you have RV's.
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Old 10-24-2012, 03:57 PM   #33
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Now , just for info, I have to go look at this Hensley Hitch, thanks a lot HAHA
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Old 10-24-2012, 04:14 PM   #34
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The worst part of being a owner of a Hensley is trying to explain to some one just how well it works. I would run out of space. So if you want to continue to adjust and play with tire pressure every time you're on the road and while you're on the road, keep your current set up. If you want to hookup and go, get the Hensley, it is an investment you will have as long as you have RV's.
I'm not criticizing you for having a Hensley, I don't know anything about that hitch. But they already have sway control and weight distribution hitch that will work, just needs adjustment and maybe another sway control bar($50). So way should they go out and spend $1395+ for a new hitch? Once their hitch is set up correctly there is no more adjustments that need to be made to it than any other hitch.

I don't play with tire pressure every time I move the TT. I do check it every time I am getting ready to hit the road, as I would do if I had a Hensley.
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Old 10-24-2012, 04:36 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by MIKE44460 View Post
The worst part of being a owner of a Hensley is trying to explain to some one just how well it works. I would run out of space. So if you want to continue to adjust and play with tire pressure every time you're on the road and while you're on the road, keep your current set up. If you want to hookup and go, get the Hensley, it is an investment you will have as long as you have RV's.
The hensly/propride are awesome .......but are you insinuating that by using one you can disregard tire pressures?... surely you are maintining proper pressures based on load like the rest of us?.....
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Old 10-24-2012, 04:49 PM   #36
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OK I am going to try all I can to get this hitch adjusted and if it doesn't happen or I have problems still I will look into the Hensley or Propride, but again who do you have install these? They both say "do it yourself", a phrase which gives me heart palpitations. Why are there not more places offering these services and why do dealers (who do offer the service) seem so inept at something that they should be competent at? Obviously once they sell you they don't care much if you make it home or not. Kinda makes me sad. BTW you guys are really nice and actually do care about someone you don't even know, which makes me happy. If anyone has a referral to someone in the Austin TX area who works w/ or installs these things please let me know.
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Old 10-24-2012, 05:06 PM   #37
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These videos may be of assistance:

&

Note the adjustment section in the pdf http://www.eaz-lift.com/eazlift/Inst...structions.pdf
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Old 10-24-2012, 06:24 PM   #38
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Thank you! I saw the 2nd vid previously and will watch the first and look at the adjustment section of the instructions.
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Old 10-24-2012, 06:54 PM   #39
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I misled myself and all of you, If you want to play with your hitch set up and tire pressure, keep the current set up. I always touch my tires when I fuel. If the trailer tires are hot then I know they are flexing, sway. They are no warmer than the rear truck tires and that is after running 300 miles non stop I-77 north thru VA and WV, with a curve or two, 65-70 MPH.

When you tighten the sway clamp. What ever force was needed to make it give or move will need the same amount of force to move it back the other direction and it will stop where it was, right?

I'm sure other Hensley owners would agree with this statement. At night, I check the mirror to see if the running lights, read trailer, is still there. No more sweaty palms, no fear when I catch sight a 18 wheeler really closing on me on the WV turnpike, those guys can fly, no fear of turns. Next to the Duramax, best money I ever spent.
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Old 10-24-2012, 07:50 PM   #40
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Looking at the stats of the 272BH, the listed empty hitch weight is listed at 650 lbs., and the listed empty weight is listed as 6285 lbs. Usually the options add about 400 lbs., so you may be looking at less that a 10% tongue weight. Of course, the tongue weight will increase when the battery and propane tanks are added, but I am still thinking that there is just not enough tongue weight to make the unit handle decent. That, along with a misadjusted WDH, and a friction sway bar that might not be tight enough, could all contribute to the excessive sway.
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