That's it. I'm done messing about..

[Cowracer]

Originally Posted by AquaMan

Tim, I have a recommendation for you... but you already know what's coming next.

Yep, and I am sure it will be as intelligent and thoughtful as any post in a section on hitches as a guy in a Class A can make.



Tim

[Cowracer]

A status update to this saga...

My truck is rarely driven. Just on weekends if I go camping or go to the lake. So this weekend I pulled my Polaris General side-by-side (about 1400 lbs) down to the lake on my 2 axle flatbed (another 1500 lbs). While trailer sway was not a problem the truck wandered all over it's lane. It seemed like there was no "on-center" feel to it. I had experienced this once before with an old GMC truck where I over-tighened the gear lash adjustment in the steering box. This pretty much made the wheels stay at whatever angle you had them steered to and they would not return to center (straight ahead). I got to thinking about what could bind up the steering like that and the only thing on the truck would be the steering stabilizer shocks. Ball joints and tie rod ends are all new. The steering stabilizer was on the truck when I bought it, 13 years ago. It most likely was shot.

So before leaving the lake, I removed the stabilizer shocks as a test. And the difference coming home was remarkable. On-center feel was back, and the wandering was pretty much nil. I can see how bad stabilizer shocks, coupled with pulling the camper would make for the nasty experience I had. New stabilizer shocks are on order.

Also, on a Ford diesel forum, a couple other Exy owners said the best money I could spend on the truck would be a rear sway-bar. Did some online research and the Helwig one for Excursions had 78 reviews, and every single one said the same two things. Namely, it made a "night and day" difference in the handling, and that the instructions were pure crap. Ok then. .. Rear sway bar on order as well. (and thank God for YouTube to show me how to install it)

So here is the rub... I have a new ProPride already on order. Chances are that fixing the two issues would have made my Reese Dual-Cam adequate. It's a good system, and I liked it a lot. But I am still going to install the new ProPride anyway. It's a good chunk of change, but I still feel its worth it.

Tim

[B and B]

An F 350 is the best way to go in this car. Lots of towing capacity and lots of people space too. 6 to be exact.

[Lzerarc]

First off, a ProPride hitch USER here, not someone who looks at it, looks at the price, and thinks its a waste. I dont need to try and sell you on the Propride since i see you already ordered it, great! I researched and talked with both companies before dropping the $$$, and through design, reviews, and user input, the 3P was the easy choice. Service after the fact has been incredible.

And to the comment about a small company/single guy making it: not true. Infact most of the "negative" things about 3P are not true. I cant think of 1 negative thing the 3P has over the Arrow, but I can think of several the arrow has the 3P doesnt.

I have had an E2, Equalizer E4, installed a Andersen for a friend we camp with a lot, and also installed a Husky Centerline, and now also have my ProPride (improved Hensley).

Of all of the hitches I have ever used, my ProPride is the fastest and easiest/least amount of work on a hot summer day than any of the above. I can be backed up, hitched and on the road in a few minutes.

While I do think the trailer is certainly taxing the truck, I am also a believe that if you are within the limits of the truck, then you can tow to them. I do not believe in the stupid 80%, 75%, or even a 60% capacity rule I have heard people throw out there. AND the seat of your pants feels fine, that is what I base it on. The numbers and the feel. If its squirrelly and all over, the truck is probably not enough.

I have an F250 towing a Rockwood, 34' long, 8200# ish loaded to camp. I came from an F150 2016, max tow.

I have not towed my camper with an E4 and my F250, but I did with an F150. That was the reason I went to a ProPride hitch. Would move all over with a slight breeze. No breeze it was nice and smooth. And it was setup very well. Truck and trailer sat level, scaled for axle weights, etc.

There was a comment about the Hensley/ProPride being a band aid and covering up sway. Actually a heavy truck covers up sway. It helps to control/reduce the feel, but the trailer is and can still swaying/move behind you for whatever reason. A heavy truck doesn't prevent that. These pivot point projection hitches actually PREVENT sway. They dont cover it up or reduce it like a friction hitch. Due to the forces within the hitch, the trailer physically can not sway. These are facts. Most people who do not recommend them have never seen or used one. I do agree you need to load your trailer right but too many people think these "expensive hitches" just cover up a bad trailer and then turn around and recommend you get a $70k diesel truck. I have an HD truck due to my weights. I have 1050# TW, add the other stuff and I am over GVWR of my F150 and maxed at the rear axle, sometimes over. We decided to trade trucks and have plenty of capacity. The F150 and ProPride made towing a 34' rig about like a typical drive to work. The F250 is even more solid. This last weekend we drove into a rain storm on the interstate. Some wind, mostly rain. I slowed down of course, but was still passing other rigs moving all over the road going 45. wind/rain is mostly a non-issue with the F250/ProPride setup. We are in the midwest so its always windy. For me, the difference can me described, but most people dont believe it until they have done it.

Again, these hitches arent band aides. They prevent sway, not mask it. However yes, you still need a tow vehicle that has the capabilities for the trailer. I think they allow you to more comfortably tow up to the limits of the truck if you want. They make it safer. Because it can not physically sway, your trailer cant take control of the tow vehicle. That is the point these companies are making.

You will love the 3P hitch. You will wonder why it took you so long to get one. The cost is always the hard thing to get over, but its one and done, and will last basically forever.

[Cowracer]

Originally Posted by B and B

An F 350 is the best way to go in this car. Lots of towing capacity and lots of people space too. 6 to be exact.

I think you are right. Please feel free to purchase one and have it sent to me.

Tim

[Hclarkx]

Originally Posted by Cowracer

A status update to this saga...

. . . . . . .

Tim

The engineer in you came through. I found reading this thread very frustrating until you saved it. Fixing a TV problem with a well designed hitch might cover defects in the TV .... until it doesn't. Some emergency maneuver could have given rise to a TV stability issue that the hitch didn't solve and you'd never know this until that emergency arose -- something like downhill braking on a curve when a moose runs in front of you.

BTW, as a Power EE I was tickled by your "under-damped positive feedback in a high gain environment" reference!

[Mountndream]

you going to be able to get this all set up before u head out?


it would be interesting to see how much difference you get based on the 2 separate solutions, rear Sway bar on Truck vs new hitch

[Cowracer]

Originally Posted by Mountndream

you going to be able to get this all set up before u head out?


it would be interesting to see how much difference you get based on the 2 separate solutions, rear Sway bar on Truck vs new hitch

Yep. Should be no problem. Stabilizer shocks are a 10 minute job. Sway bar is about 2 hours. Hitch install should be 4 hours or so. I got a busy Saturday in store for me.

Agreed, it would be interesting to see what the camper does with just the sway bar and steering stabilizer fixes alone, but I probably won't have much of a chance to hitch up the camper just to find out. I will run it down the highway empty. That might show something.

Tim

[Lzerarc]

Originally Posted by Cowracer

Yep. Should be no problem. Stabilizer shocks are a 10 minute job. Sway bar is about 2 hours. Hitch install should be 4 hours or so. I got a busy Saturday in store for me.

Agreed, it would be interesting to see what the camper does with just the sway bar and steering stabilizer fixes alone, but I probably won't have much of a chance to hitch up the camper just to find out. I will run it down the highway empty. That might show something.

Tim

For the 3P install: Rockwoods you should not have to move the propane tank tray or anything. Mine and several I have seen the tray sits above the frame slightly so I was able to slip the U brackets under it. You will need the chain extensions (I made my own picking them up at a tractor supply store) and I did not need a 7 pin extension.
Watch youtube videos of installs prior to it coming and it will make it go a lot easier. If you have someone else to help you, take the help. It installed pretty straight forward, but another set of hands really helped since each person can sit on the sides of the trailer. Also have a big torque wrench. And a floor jack is helpful. Beer too.

[SailorSam20500]

Originally Posted by Lzerarc

For the 3P install: Rockwoods you should not have to move the propane tank tray or anything. Mine and several I have seen the tray sits above the frame slightly so I was able to slip the U brackets under it. You will need the chain extensions (I made my own picking them up at a tractor supply store) and I did not need a 7 pin extension.
Watch youtube videos of installs prior to it coming and it will make it go a lot easier. If you have someone else to help you, take the help. It installed pretty straight forward, but another set of hands really helped since each person can sit on the sides of the trailer. Also have a big torque wrench. And a floor jack is helpful. Beer too.

Agree with most of the above. With 2 people, my hitch went on in 2 hours. I needed 3 or 4 additional links on the chains. Pay attention to the proper routing of the chains - they MUST go under the hitch and inside the WD bars. There are a few of bolts that call for 200 ft/lbs of torque.

Hold off on the beer until you are finished!

[Lzerarc]

Originally Posted by SailorSam20500

Hold off on the beer until you are finished!

Maybe this is why it took us about 3 hours!

make a drinking game out of it...for every nut you put on, take a drink. There are a few pieces to these hitches...

[DDC]

Originally Posted by clarkbre

Based on the below video (1:57), I am thoroughly convinced my F250 needs to be traded for a 1995 Dodge Intrepid. Nothing says "tow vehicle" like a front wheel drive unibody sedan tugging a triple axle Airstream. I'll let you know how the engine braking goes....if I make it down the mountain!

Hensley Hitch Video

"Hensley....Built to blow your tranny!"
Attachment 210567

So sorry for sharing my positive experience, I haven’t heard from you so I expect you didn’t make it down the mountain🤭 oh you just commented without any experience then!

[uhduh camping]

I am late to this conversation. I have the 8329ss and tow it with a Hensley Arrow. I will not tow any other way! Simply rock solid towing now.
I did which to a 3/4 ton truck and thought I could then sell the Hensley. Absolutely not a chance it still swayed with Blue Ox so the Hensley went right back on.
With close to 14k towing miles with the Hensley only once did it sway. I believe other hitch would have flipped me on my side. My own fault I was completely protected by 40 mph winds for several miles and rolled on to the I-95 Susquehanna bridge. I felt the huge push by the wind and said "oh yeah it's windy". Mean while all traffic around came to screeching halt! Must have been pretty dramatic behind me!

[windsurfdog]

Originally Posted by uhduh camping

I did which to a 3/4 ton truck and thought I could then sell the Hensley. Absolutely not a chance it still swayed with Blue Ox so the Hensley went right back on.

Interesting. My Blue Ox is solid as a rock.

[Flat_twin]

How about some more details regarding your setup? Trailer weight? Tongue weight? Is the trailer perfectly level? Coupler height? Ball height?

Front fender measurements with no trailer
Front fender measurements with trailer but no WD
Front fender measurements with trailer and WD

Used a Reese dual cam for the last five years on our 30' toy hauler with zero sway issues. 2008 F250, CC, v10, 4:10 gears.

[Cowracer]

Originally Posted by Flat_twin

Used a Reese dual cam for the last five years on our 30' toy hauler with zero sway issues.

I'm sure you have. It's a great hitch. Please refer to post #42.

Tim

[Midwesterner]

Cowracer, I'm glad you got things sorted out to your satisfaction - that being the only measure that matters when you get down to it. But I have a question that I didn't see answered anywhere. Was Reese ever contacted directly for their insights, and if so, what were they?

Thanks!

[Smiletwice]

Originally Posted by 2Evil4U

My 832ikbs, (same trailer but flagstaff) towed great with a 14k equalizer behind my ram 1500. The key for my setup was transferring enough weight to put 200# more on the front axle than when it was unloaded. It was one finger driving in crosswinds strong enough to blow the OEM stairs out twice.

Ymmv, of course.

This has been a great thread as we're considering purchasing a new 8329SS. We'll be moving up from the Flagstaff 26FKWS which is the same as the Rockwood 2608. Towing with a 3/4 ton GMC gasser. Using the Equal-i-zer 4 point hitch and it's been like "wind.....what wind." Other than the annoying sound effects that come with it, this has been a great hitch. Current hitch is 1,000 lb set up. We virtually never travel with water in the tanks and I just took it to the CAT scales as loaded as we've ever been and used only 800 lbs of our trailer payload. So....Wondering if I need to go to 1200 or 1400 set up with the Equal-i-zer? 8500 dry, maybe 9500-10,000 absolute max loaded. Probably come in right around 1200 on the tongue. Wondering if length creates any additional considerations. Appreciate any insights....

[Flat_twin]

Cowracer, Sorry I missed post #42 where you said you found a problem with suspension parts. Hope your new hitch works out OK.

Smiletwice, If your 1000 lb spring bars can still restore or nearly restore your front axle weight / fender height, you're probably OK.

[reevesfamily]

I love my F250 2wd 6.7l with the Husky Centerline between me and the 34’ 9000lb camper. Solid as a rock, no worries-wind/trucks/etc. But the 250 CC has the wheelbase I need and it isn’t lifted. Plus I don’t drive any over 65 ever, usually 60-62.