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Old 12-30-2015, 09:06 PM   #51
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A 250 has 8 lug with a much larger axle.


2010 F250 5.4L 3.73
2011 Flagstaff 831FKBSS
Equal-i-zer 4pt 12K
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Old 12-30-2015, 09:14 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lbrjet View Post
A 250 has 8 lug with a much larger axle.


2010 F250 5.4L 3.73
2011 Flagstaff 831FKBSS
Equal-i-zer 4pt 12K
no, not the current ones. The ones from like 15 years ago that looked like F150s but were slightly beefier. A nightmare to get the right brake parts for.
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Old 12-30-2015, 09:59 PM   #53
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Originally Posted by B and B View Post
Hello OP Mr Acadian Bob,

You will have rear axle weight available, not a issue really. The payload is what your issue issue.

I towed 1900 lbs pin weight with my F 150. I was over on payload. The truck handled it just fine. I am not one to say do or don't. It is up to what you feel comfortable with. I never travelled with a full tank of gas to shave 150 lbs off payload and deleted as much stuff as possible to get it under the 1900 lbs. I did nothing to the truck but LT tires one size bigger to boot. I have a Super Duty now, good deal and definitely no issues.
I have seen many successful posts people towing Fifth Wheels with a F 150 Eco Boost, never seen a bad one.
It is up to you and what you are comfortable with.

B

That's a tad inconvenient, not being able to fill the tank, because you had no payload left!!

Glad you got the SD!!


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Old 12-31-2015, 12:04 AM   #54
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You could use the Andersen Ultimate Aluminum Fifth Wheel Connection, would save close to 200# of payload. The Andersen Hitch weighs approximately 40#.
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Old 12-31-2015, 06:14 AM   #55
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Guys, these trucks have what's called ARC (accessory reserve capacity) of hundreds of pounds.

That's because the OEM only prints weights for bone stock units with no options. You start adding things like massively heavy stereos (10lbs) side steps (30lbs) leather seats (5lbs) tri-coat paint (8lbs) or a bedliner (17lbs) and you can eat up a 100lbs real quick. Leaving you with only an additional 400 to 600 lbs of reserve capacity left.

ETA:
Here's an example of how it works
https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas...%20Payload.pdf
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Old 12-31-2015, 09:41 AM   #56
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The best way to check your Payload numbers is to load the truck with all the stuff you take with you in the truck. ie Passengers, Hitch, Chalks, Cooler, GPS, Maps, Tools, Cooler and etc. Bring it to the scales and weight the truck then take that number and subtract it from the GVWR listed on your door jam. The difference between the two number well be the the Max Payload you have left. Bring it to the scales and spending 10 bucks takes all the stubby pencil and guess work out of the picture and gives you real life numbers not some website numbers.

Example would be if you truck scale weight is 5,800 lbs and the door stickers gives your truck a 7,200 GVWR would give you a Max Payload of 1400 lbs.

My current truck with my wife and me including the hitch, bed rug, chalks, and small tool bag and misc stuff had a yellow sticker of 3744 and on the scales it come to 3180 Max Payload left over for our 5th wheel.

Note that yellow sticker on the truck is what the Max Payload when the truck was weighted the day it left the factory and we saw that on our tour of the F150 plant in KC.
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Old 12-31-2015, 10:22 AM   #57
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I had a 2013 F150 Platinum 4x4. Beautiful truck!

However, I didn't like anything it was capable of towing in a 5er and it had every available option.
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Old 12-31-2015, 11:02 AM   #58
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To build off my last post. When refuel at truck stop check out and see if they have a CAT Scale. If they do you can weigh you rig and get real life weights not some stubby pencil weights. All you have to do is pull on to the scale and push the button. Someone will come on and ask for some account number all you have to say it is personnel weighing. Then you pull around pay 10 bucks and get a weight ticket that will look like the one below.

From just this ticket you can check several specs. If you add Scale 1 and Scale 2 together that number should be less than you GVWR listed on you trucks door jam. If you look at Scale 2 that weight would be less than you GAWR (Max Rear Axle Weight) listed on you door jam. Added all three together and that would your weight of your truck and RV and compare that to your Max Tow numbers.

It is a simple process and give real life numbers and takes all the guess work out of the numbers and gave peace of mind knowing for sure what the weights are. Since I weight my truck once or twice a year if I get in accident and some claims I was over weight I can pull out scale weights showing that I was within my weight ratings - just peace of mind.

The below weights were on F350 and 11,500 GVWR with a 11,380lbs 5er.
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Old 12-31-2015, 11:34 AM   #59
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OK, this seems like it is on the edge. I've got 250 lbs in tonneau and side steps. Me, wife, 2 dogs; probably 350. Hitch 250. Other stuff 100. I'm probably below 1,000 lbs remaining. . . . .

Make the trailer weights wet and optioned and I'm probably over payload by 200 to 300 pounds. 10 to 15% overload.

It's amazing how you can eat up that payload.
This is why I never travel with water in my fw tank. Can always get water at the cg and empty my tanks when I am getting ready to leave. No need to carry an extra 250 pounds. I do carry a 5 gallon jug with me for emergencies though.

Jim
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Old 12-31-2015, 12:34 PM   #60
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To make a educate decision you has to be based in facts not fiction, a guess, I saw some else doing it or he said I could. Get the drift.
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