Tightening Hitch Ball

[Rod Johnson]

Originally Posted by baldy

And the answer is....

Wait for it....

A strap wrench!!

Snap-on

BLPSTWR4, Wrench, Strap, 4"

Even a Snap On is only $15.

I couldn't get my strap wrench to hold it tight enough

I put my belt around the ball and clamped in the pipe side of my bench vise and cranked on the nut with a breaker bar.

[MtnGuy]

Thanks for all of the ideas. Heading to Lowe's today to either get a pipe wrench (need 1 of those around the house, anyway) or see if they might have a strap wrench.

[Mountainmanbob]

Originally Posted by mtnguy

strap wrench.

strap wrench as shone
might not be the best tool for the job
hard to beat a pipe wrench
grip that ball right
should be minimal scratching

Mountainman

[sherdep]

the ball sould have two flat places at the base across from each other where you can put a adjustable wrench on it and then put a put a piece of cloth on the end of the wrench and let it rest on the bumper or hitch if possible while turning the nut.

I would install the reciever upside down so the nut is on top and the ball is on the bottom and tighten the ball and nut that way.
you may need an extra hand to hold the wrench and or ball until it gets tight.

I doubt a strap wrench is going to have enough strength the hold it in place

[MtnGuy]

Originally Posted by sherdep

the ball sould have two flat places at the base across from each other where you can put a adjustable wrench on it and then put a put a piece of cloth on the end of the wrench and let it rest on the bumper or hitch if possible while turning the nut.

This ball has a completely round base.

Originally Posted by sherdep

I would install the reciever upside down so the nut is on top and the ball is on the bottom and tighten the ball and nut that way.

I have the WDH installed 1 quarter turn in the receiver so that I can push down to tighten the nut. That way, I can stand on a scale and get the proper torque on the nut.

[baldy]

You look at the task and think it will be easy but it turns out to be the biggest pain ever. Every time I touch one I curse it!!

I have used a big pipe wrench only because nothing else would work. Usually when trying to remove it though.

Soft jaws in the chuck of the vise would work to clamp onto the ball.

Good luck!

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by baldy

And the answer is....A strap wrench!!

Snap-on BLPSTWR4, Wrench, Strap, 4"

Even a Snap On is only $15.

I am thinking you never really tried this on a trailer hitch ball...

[MtnGuy]

Update. The strap wrench wouldn't quite hold the ball enough. I ended up putting the strap wrench on the ball, and a pipe wrench on the base, and had the missus do the torquing with the cheater ball. After a little filing the grooves that were made by the pipe wrench, all is good.

[OldCoot]

I always ground or cut flats on the base and put it in a vise and tightened with an 18" cresent and cheater bar. Once tight, tack welded on the flats. Always drilled a hole in the threaded portion of the shank, below the nut and inserted 1/8" cotter pin.

[MtnGuy]

Originally Posted by dunnnc

Always drilled a hole in the threaded portion of the shank, below the nut and inserted 1/8" cotter pin.

No room for that. With an 1 1/8" platform, the nut and washer, that takes up pretty much all of a 2 5/8" shank. Torquing to 450 lbs., and rechecking after a couple of uses, the nut backing off should not be a problem.

[OldCoot]

Have also drilled thru the nut on one or two of them, it is easier to drill also.

[baldy]

Originally Posted by herk7769

I am thinking you never really tried this on a trailer hitch ball...

I have done it but I have never torqued one to 450 lb fts. I have just torqued it until it was as tight as I could tighten it. Figured that was enough and have never had an issue. Right or wrong? Probably wrong but never had an issue. The key is to have it "shouldered". My E2 came assembled

I do know this much. Leave it a year and try to get it apart

I will take your word for it that it doesn't work!!

I like the welding and cotter pin method!

[Mountainmanbob]

Originally Posted by mtnguy

Torquing to 450 lbs

where did that Torq information come from ??
never heard that one before

seems kind of high

Mountainman

[kandl]

Originally Posted by Mountainmanbob

seems kind of high

From Reese: 450 ft/lbs for 1-1/4" nut, 250 ft/lbs for 1" nut

I have a ball with the flats that I use a honk'n big crescent wrench on - I can't imagine trying to torque this beast to 450 without a way to effectively grip the ball. I rotate the ball mount 90 degrees in the truck receiver and let the handle of the crescent wrench come up against a wood block placed in line with its rotation arc. The magic number for the nut is arrived upon via a 3/4 inch breaker bar and that oh so important bit of leverage (pipe).

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by Mountainmanbob

where did that Torq information come from ?? never heard that one before seems kind of high
Mountainman

My manual (page 3) requires the Equalizer ball to be torqued to 430 foot pounds but there is a note that some manufacturer's of trailer hitch balls may require higher.

"Hitch balls require a 1-7/8” socket and a torque wrench capable of approximately 450 ft. lbs. torque for installation. Your nearest Equal-i-zer dealership will have the tools needed and will usually install the hitch ball for a reasonable fee."

I can do further research on your manufacturer if you need it.