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Old 05-10-2016, 11:38 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by Iwannacamp View Post
25 years in the auto parts business taught me much about noisy brakes and dirty rotors.
Customers/users are hardly ever happy. I will give my opinions(couple anyway). Inexpensive.. but last. Clean and quiet. Friendly to the environment and the rotors.
Brake pad bonding was done on purpose(glued to caliper). Noise starts at the rotor surface and is transmitted and sometimes amplified through the hardware.
Smooth rotors(but not glassy), clean lubricated hardware(caliper has to move). Quality product. Rotos are lighter than they used to be, but yet most not ventilated and are doing sometimes 80% of the work. Just as important as anything make sure to wash the rotors before and after installing. I could go on.

here you go...

The Perfect Brake Job
Took a look at the link.... IMO, the most important step to alleviating squealing brakes would be #29 (lubricate pads at all metal-to-metal contact points to include shim on backing plate)

The shim lubrication is often overlooked and has made a difference when doing it myself.....

J.
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Old 05-10-2016, 11:40 AM   #22
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talked to a friend who does brake work her said on the 3/4 ton and up trucks use OEM or go to NAPA for brakes as most auto shops sell what they can buy cheep and make there money off and they don't hold up near as well
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Old 05-10-2016, 04:12 PM   #23
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No noise here

I always use OEM pads on my rigs. That doesn't mean I go back to the dealer to get then though. Let your fingers do the walking and find your best price on-line. I have never had a squeak from using the factory pads, they cost more but I hate squealing brakes.
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Old 05-10-2016, 04:19 PM   #24
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I always use OEM pads on my rigs. That doesn't mean I go back to the dealer to get then though. Let your fingers do the walking and find your best price on-line. I have never had a squeak from using the factory pads, they cost more but I hate squealing brakes.

If you buy the brake pads online, who does the install?
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Old 05-10-2016, 04:26 PM   #25
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If you buy the brake pads online, who does the install?
With disc breaks changing out pads and rotors is for the most part very easy . just did mine on my 2500hd chevy . new rotors front with semi-cermic pads lifetime warranty and new pads on the rear . total time 1.5 hrs and that's me taking extra time to lube the front end and clean things up very well . if you've never done it then take it in most lifetime warranty break jobs will be less then $250
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Old 05-10-2016, 06:30 PM   #26
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If you buy the brake pads online, who does the install?
Usually you do .......... unless you have a mechanic like I do that will do it for $20. A few will do it most will not do to liabilities.

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Old 05-10-2016, 07:15 PM   #27
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Wagner Ceramic and hose off the rotors on occasion
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Old 05-10-2016, 09:09 PM   #28
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I have been using ceramic pads on all my vehicles for atleast 10 years and have loved the great gripping and quite braking. a BIG plus is no break dust messing with my wheels.
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Old 05-10-2016, 09:27 PM   #29
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I am about to replace all 4 corners on my Tundra. I will use ceramic pads with slotted and drilled rotors. I tow in mountains and the fronts have a problem with heat build up and shake like a dog when they get hot.

That said, if you have ANY mechanical aptitude, replacing rotors and/or pads is as easy as it gets and you'll save more than enough for premium parts.
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Old 05-10-2016, 09:47 PM   #30
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Brakes are not difficult, run the rotors down to local parts store they can turn them, or replace them. Pad's, OE, clean and lube all slide pin's, contact point's, the best pad's actually have an adhesive on them so when the caliper is extended from being used they actually glue themselves to the caliper/piston, this pulls the pads off the rotor when the brakes are released. Some also have fingers on the slides to push the pads off the rotors also. No drag all around. As far as noise, it comes down to rotor finish, good luck.
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Old 05-10-2016, 10:35 PM   #31
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All disc brake pads have a metal tab attached ,when the pads need replacing the tabs touch the rotors making a squeal indicating the need for replacing before they are metal to metal.
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Old 05-11-2016, 05:17 AM   #32
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All disc brake pads have a metal tab attached ,when the pads need replacing the tabs touch the rotors making a squeal indicating the need for replacing before they are metal to metal.


X2
I was taught the same thing. But if two shops didn't see this, I'd check runout on rotors, turn if needed, and replace with stock pads.

Good luck,
Dave
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Old 05-11-2016, 06:39 AM   #33
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All disc brake pads have a metal tab attached ,when the pads need replacing the tabs touch the rotors making a squeal indicating the need for replacing before they are metal to metal.

Not all pads have the tab.
That's why brake inspections are needed.


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Old 05-11-2016, 07:40 AM   #34
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I do 90% of my own work and I was looking for 1) A quiet pad\rotor combination and 2) A near dust free rim. What I decided on 3 years ago was a Raybestos heavy duty set of front slotted rotors and NAPA ceramic heavy duty brake pads. The outcome was an extremely quiet braking application in all weather and speeds with very little brake dust. I bought my rotors and pads thru Rock Auto parts online.(they had a wholesale closeout price on the pads). A few folks have commented on how ceramic pads weren't the best when towing heavy, but I've had NO diminish in stopping power at any speed. Doug, buy online, and have a good local Independent garage do your install. If we lived closer I'd turn you into a shade tree mechanic over a few beers...
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Old 05-11-2016, 02:53 PM   #35
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As a professional automotive technician for over 35 years. If you machine the rotors due to lateral run out or thickness parlisium. Correct finish and washing machine surface with soap and water with a stiff Bristol brush. Never use anti seize lube on anything for brakes. Not compatible with rubber, use a high temperature brake lubricant and replace shim hardware. O.E brake material is best. Use common sense when braking as pads need time seat. Do not use heavy braking when getting pads to seat. Use moderate braking, do not use light braking as pads glaze and will cause noise. You should also flush the brake fluid system with new fluid. Brake fluid absorption of water is normal and even with a sealed system. This is why brake fluid turns darker and breaks down also with heat. Good luck
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Old 05-11-2016, 03:16 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by Kenny kustom View Post
Not all pads have the tab.
That's why brake inspections are needed.


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Thanks Kenny. Been in the automotive after market 40+ years (15 of the those managing a brake supply warehouse) not all pads have wear sensors.
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Old 05-11-2016, 03:17 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by jimmyt11664 View Post
As a professional automotive technician for over 35 years. If you machine the rotors due to lateral run out or thickness parlisium. Correct finish and washing machine surface with soap and water with a stiff Bristol brush. Never use anti seize lube on anything for brakes. Not compatible with rubber, use a high temperature brake lubricant and replace shim hardware. O.E brake material is best. Use common sense when braking as pads need time seat. Do not use heavy braking when getting pads to seat. Use moderate braking, do not use light braking as pads glaze and will cause noise. You should also flush the brake fluid system with new fluid. Brake fluid absorption of water is normal and even with a sealed system. This is why brake fluid turns darker and breaks down also with heat. Good luck
Do vehicle manufactures make their own brake pads/shoes?
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Old 06-04-2016, 08:38 AM   #38
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It's brakes and shocks today. Having my wife's uncle do the work.

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Old 06-04-2016, 11:22 AM   #39
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Those shock boxes look familiar.


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Old 06-04-2016, 11:23 AM   #40
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And here's my view- working on my cousin's computer! I was nothing more than moral support out in the garage anyway.

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