TIRES???

[ependydad]

Originally Posted by KFX450RXC

If you can swing the price, they're hard to beat. I had my dealer swap out the China tires for G614s before we came to pick it up. I keep my tires around 100 psi and they have stayed that way since April.

I love the peace of mind plus they're rated at 75 mph if that means anything to you. I don't do 75 mph but when I have to pass someone on I-95, I don't worry about the tires at all.

Truth be told, you can opt for the Sailun S637 and save almost $100/tire. Same specs, just not a name brand. I've yet to hear any and reviews of users of them.

[SidecarFlip]

Originally Posted by spock123

On my last trip I had lost a sensor on one of my tires and would you not know that tire started to leak, leaking valve stem. I want to change to metal valve stems, how do I find the size?


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Screw down stems all come with 2 rubber grommets that fit all rim holes, big and small. You just choose the correct one and use that. When you install them or have them installed, the nut that secures the stem to the rim and puts pressure on the rubber hole grommet cannot be too tight. Recommended torque is 15 inch pounds and apply some good grease to the grommet before installing it in the rim hole. The grease helps it seat easier and prevents any leaks.

I don't use anything else, from my lawn tractor to the cars to the pickup to my quad trailer, every wheel had a screw down stem.

In the old days when rubber valve stems were actually rubber and made here, they lasted.

Modern, made in China synthetic rubber valve stems rot in a couple years and then you have a leak and a blown (from too little pressure) tire. Cheap insurance. in my book.

[mike.t]

Originally Posted by spock123

On my last trip I had lost a sensor on one of my tires and would you not know that tire started to leak, leaking valve stem. I want to change to metal valve stems, how do I find the size?


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There are two with many choices.
Tire Tech Information - Tire Valve Types, Components & Uses

[Tireman9]

Originally Posted by SidecarFlip

Screw down stems all come with 2 rubber grommets that fit all rim holes, big and small. You just choose the correct one and use that. When you install them or have them installed, the nut that secures the stem to the rim and puts pressure on the rubber hole grommet cannot be too tight. Recommended torque is 15 inch pounds and apply some good grease to the grommet before installing it in the rim hole. The grease helps it seat easier and prevents any leaks.

I don't use anything else, from my lawn tractor to the cars to the pickup to my quad trailer, every wheel had a screw down stem.

In the old days when rubber valve stems were actually rubber and made here, they lasted.

Modern, made in China synthetic rubber valve stems rot in a couple years and then you have a leak and a blown (from too little pressure) tire. Cheap insurance. in my book.

"grommet cannot be too tight" Yes you can be too tight and split the grommet. Spec is 25-45 inch pounds. Not 15 in-lb or 10 Ft pounds or more

" apply some good grease to the grommet " Not a good idea. Haven't you ever heard that petroleum products can hurt rubber? Use standard tire mounting lube like "Murphys" on the grommet as you would on tire bead and flange area of the wheel as I do on my mounting machine I have at home.

Yes there was a batch of improperly made passenger valve stems a few years ago but the rubber in most passenger and LT tires and maybe ST type has been almost 100% synthetic for years.

Yes most bolt in metal valves like this

do come with two different size grommets.

[SidecarFlip]

Originally Posted by Tireman9

"grommet cannot be too tight" Yes you can be too tight and split the grommet. Spec is 25-45 inch pounds. Not 15 in-lb or 10 Ft pounds or more

" apply some good grease to the grommet " Not a good idea. Haven't you ever heard that petroleum products can hurt rubber? Use standard tire mounting lube like "Murphys" on the grommet as you would on tire bead and flange area of the wheel as I do on my mounting machine I have at home.

Yes there was a batch of improperly made passenger valve stems a few years ago but the rubber in most passenger and LT tires and maybe ST type has been almost 100% synthetic for years.

Yes most bolt in metal valves like this

do come with two different size grommets.

I bet you are one of those tire jockeys who ignore the balance mark on a new tire so you can charge the customer for a 'balance' too....lol

I use silicone grease not petroleum based grease, maybe I should have stated that and I stand by 15-20 inch pounds on the fixing nut. You want to seat the grommet, not deform it.

Valve stems (rubber or hybrid synthetic) are made offshore today and they are generally all junk.

Why even bother with conventional valve stems anyway. If a rubber stem was so good, why is it that ALL large trucks have screw down stems. Simple answer, screw down is superior.

You mount yous and I'll mount mine

[Tireman9]

Originally Posted by SidecarFlip

I bet you are one of those tire jockeys who ignore the balance mark on a new tire so you can charge the customer for a 'balance' too....lol

I use silicone grease not petroleum based grease, maybe I should have stated that and I stand by 15-20 inch pounds on the fixing nut. You want to seat the grommet, not deform it.

Valve stems (rubber or hybrid synthetic) are made offshore today and they are generally all junk.

Why even bother with conventional valve stems anyway. If a rubber stem was so good, why is it that ALL large trucks have screw down stems. Simple answer, screw down is superior.

You mount yous and I'll mount mine

Sorry just a tire design and quality engineer with 40 years experience. Only tires I mounted were the few hundred race tires I sold in late 70's as a "paying" hobby and the couple of sets I may mount each year on my machine in my workshop.

"All" street tires tires do not have balance or high point marks.
Even when you "match mount", balance weights are many times needed and the only way to know how much or where is to perform a balance measurement.
Yes it would have helped if you said silicone grease, although I would still prefer Murphys as it is designed to be slippery when wet to allow rubber to slide against the metal rims. Then when it dries it is very sticky and prevents slip. This can be a problem with tires if they slip on the rim and change the balance point. Might also be a problem with bolt in valves as the valve might also move and rotate in the hole in the wheel with something that is always slippery like silicone grease.
Would be interested to see your lab test data on "all" tire valves. What physical property are you using to indicate they are "junk"?

RE torque. TRA standards book indicates "Recommended torque at installation: 25-45 inch pounds" Maybe you need to contact them and point out their error.

I do not see where I suggested that people should use regular rubber "snap-in" valves like TR-413. In my blog and in many posts I recommend bolt in valves as seen in the picture in my post.

Have a good time in your RV.

[Funhaus]

Originally Posted by Cardinal camper

Just bought 2017 Sandpiper in July. China "bombs" from factory. 1st blowout "Westlake" third time out!! Need recommendations for good, safe, and dependable tires. Never will I understand why FR puts CHEAP tires on brand new RV. Thanks in advance for your help!!!

I've been waiting for Tireman9 to reply to the OP about his "Blowout" he has posted on various RV forums about what causes your tire failure and the term "Blowout" is not the proper description of what has happened.
I was admonished for explaining that most people use the term "Blowout" for almost all tire "failures" because that is what we are accustomed to calling them.

[spock123]

My Silverado tires are about gone, they are Goodyears and Goodyears will go back on truck. Pulling a fifth wheel wears them out. I will put metal stems on this time. My next trip is probably going to be about 3,000 miles and on my back tires I can see Lincoln's head.


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[SidecarFlip]

Originally Posted by Tireman9

Sorry just a tire design and quality engineer with 40 years experience. Only tires I mounted were the few hundred race tires I sold in late 70's as a "paying" hobby and the couple of sets I may mount each year on my machine in my workshop.

"All" street tires tires do not have balance or high point marks.
Even when you "match mount", balance weights are many times needed and the only way to know how much or where is to perform a balance measurement.
Yes it would have helped if you said silicone grease, although I would still prefer Murphys as it is designed to be slippery when wet to allow rubber to slide against the metal rims. Then when it dries it is very sticky and prevents slip. This can be a problem with tires if they slip on the rim and change the balance point. Might also be a problem with bolt in valves as the valve might also move and rotate in the hole in the wheel with something that is always slippery like silicone grease.
Would be interested to see your lab test data on "all" tire valves. What physical property are you using to indicate they are "junk"?

RE torque. TRA standards book indicates "Recommended torque at installation: 25-45 inch pounds" Maybe you need to contact them and point out their error.

I do not see where I suggested that people should use regular rubber "snap-in" valves like TR-413. In my blog and in many posts I recommend bolt in valves as seen in the picture in my post.

Have a good time in your RV.

Wrong, it's a Federal DOT requirement for all tires, passenger and commercial.

Not here to dance with you... Don't want to but your statement I bolded is flat wrong.

But then again, you may be a retired authority key word retired. It's a Federal regulation.

Have a good time with your blog or whatever it is.

[Iwannacamp]

Mmmm. I would put money on who is correct here...


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[lesptr]

As would I.

[ependydad]

Originally Posted by SidecarFlip

Wrong, it's a Federal DOT requirement for all tires, passenger and commercial.



Not here to dance with you... Don't want to but your statement I bolded is flat wrong.



But then again, you may be a retired authority key word retired. It's a Federal regulation.



Have a good time with your blog or whatever it is.

I have no dog in this fight but care to link/quote your source?

[f5moab]

Originally Posted by SidecarFlip

Wrong, it's a Federal DOT requirement for all tires, passenger and commercial.

Not here to dance with you... Don't want to but your statement I bolded is flat wrong.

But then again, you may be a retired authority key word retired. It's a Federal regulation.

Have a good time with your blog or whatever it is.

Not an expert by all means on Title 49 › Subtitle B › Chapter V › Part 574 › Section 574.5 - Tire identification requirements; however, I'm having a hard time finding anything about this mark in the mandated TIN (Tire Idenification Number) marking requirements. I believe, this particular Title (49) is not updated till Oct 1 each year (the Title I am very familiar with-27 is updated earlier in the year), so maybe you have some inside info about an upcoming update.
Just curious.....

[Airdale]

Originally Posted by SidecarFlip

Wrong, it's a Federal DOT requirement for all tires, passenger and commercial.

Not here to dance with you... Don't want to but your statement I bolded is flat wrong.

But then again, you may be a retired authority key word retired. It's a Federal regulation.

Have a good time with your blog or whatever it is.

http://www.tirebusiness.com/article/...rkings-serve-a

[wmtire]

This is just too easy for me to settle, being in the position I am in. I just went and grabbed a couple of new Goodyear's off the rack and took pics. As everyone can see, not all tires have the balance and/or high point marks. Nor are they required too.

[Davidjeff]

Originally Posted by Tireman9

Sorry just a tire design and quality engineer with 40 years experience. Only tires I mounted were the few hundred race tires I sold in late 70's as a "paying" hobby and the couple of sets I may mount each year on my machine in my workshop.

"All" street tires tires do not have balance or high point marks.
Even when you "match mount", balance weights are many times needed and the only way to know how much or where is to perform a balance measurement.
Yes it would have helped if you said silicone grease, although I would still prefer Murphys as it is designed to be slippery when wet to allow rubber to slide against the metal rims. Then when it dries it is very sticky and prevents slip. This can be a problem with tires if they slip on the rim and change the balance point. Might also be a problem with bolt in valves as the valve might also move and rotate in the hole in the wheel with something that is always slippery like silicone grease.
Would be interested to see your lab test data on "all" tire valves. What physical property are you using to indicate they are "junk"?

RE torque. TRA standards book indicates "Recommended torque at installation: 25-45 inch pounds" Maybe you need to contact them and point out their error.

I do not see where I suggested that people should use regular rubber "snap-in" valves like TR-413. In my blog and in many posts I recommend bolt in valves as seen in the picture in my post.

Have a good time in your RV.

May I also add to ensure an even better ride, tire life and wear have every tire mounted "Road Force" checked and the tire will be mounted in its most optimum position in relation to the wheel, then at that point the tire can be balanced.

[Davidjeff]

Originally Posted by wmtire

This is just too easy for me to settle, being in the position I am in. I just went and grabbed a couple of new Goodyear's off the rack and took pics. As everyone can see, not all tires have the balance and/or high point marks. Nor are they required too.Attachment 121589Attachment 121590Attachment 121591Attachment 121592

Having installed 1000's of tires you are exactly correct of not having the marks on all tires for orientation. If they do we orientate them to the stem and then road force ck the assy and the re-orientate the tires on the rim for the lowest road force achievable. Takes time, sometimes cost more but uses lower total weight and creates a better ride with lower drift pull issues...

[Iwannacamp]

Interesting info after the popcorn...
Commercial Truck Tires & OTR Tire Solutions - Bridgestone
https://www.yokohamatire.com/tires-1...match-mounting


All interesting articles... The more I see here the more I need more info. I already am scared to walk by a tire. I have always said..There is a professional everything. You pick a topic and there is professional version.

[rracer5]

Originally Posted by Funhaus

I've been waiting for Tireman9 to reply to the OP about his "Blowout" he has posted on various RV forums about what causes your tire failure and the term "Blowout" is not the proper description of what has happened.
I was admonished for explaining that most people use the term "Blowout" for almost all tire "failures" because that is what we are accustomed to calling them.

I don't care what anybody says. When I hear what sounds like a 12 guage shotgun going off and look in the mirror and see pieces of tire/tread flying off in all directions, it's a "blowout"!

I don't care if it started as "tread separation", it still blew out.

[SidecarFlip]

Originally Posted by ependydad

I have no dog in this fight but care to link/quote your source?

He may be right on prevailing torque on the nuts on screw down valve stems but, in my other life (not camping), I'm a Federally authorized examiner trainer for commercial drivers and I'm a safety and risk management officer for a large commercial carrier.

I'm quoting the regulation concerning static balance indicators on tires from the FMCSA handbook, parts 40, 202, 325. 350-399 Inclusive. The regulation regarding manufacturers to mark the heaviest point on any new tire applied to class 6-8 truck tires and non commercial tires as well and has been in force for a number of years. Non commercial tires manufacturers are required to only provide one indicator whereas commercial tire manufacturers are required to provide 3 marks of different colors, usually red, green and blue with green being the centerpoint.

You can go read the regs if you want to. I happen to have the book sitting here but they are online and at your library...

ISBN Number is: 978-1-60287-592-0

My License number and Certification number is: 6998

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