Torque

[Jimsue]

Based on multiple recommendations posted here, I bought an Equal I Zer 1000/10000 WD hitch and am attempting to install it on my 2013 GMC Sierra. Problem is, manufacturer calls for 470 ft lbs of Torque on the nut on the hitch ball shank. I have called three hitch places here in Grand Rapids and they all claim that they do not have a torque wrench suitable for that application. Two said they just use an impact wrench and "crank it down real good!" How precise do I need to be in tightening this monstrous nut and is it possible to just use an impact wrench? Thanks for any help offered...

[force]

I have had 3 or 4 different ball hitches over the years, from my 1 7/16 utility trailer up to my TT at 2 5/16. I have always used my biggest plumber's wrench to crank the nut down as hard as I possibly can. Have never lost a trailer <knocks on wood>

I'm not sure my impact wrench could even muster 470 ft lbs...

[Campster]

I put the shank in the receiver sideways and I used a 3/4 inch breaker bar with a pipe slipped over the end of it and tightened it by hand then stepped on the pipe and put some body weight into it....Figured that would be enough. Have checked it often, can't get it to budge..It's tight enough..

[MtnGuy]

An impact wrench will not properly torque a bolt !!! And to torque to 470 lbs. you would need a big wrench.

Torque, measured in pound feet (sometimes incorrectly stated as foot pounds) is a simple formula. I weigh about 190 lbs., so if I put all of my body weight 1 ft from the axis of the wrench, that is 190 lb./ft.

Try this: Turn you hitch 1/4 turn in the receiver so you have to push down to tighten the ball nut. Take your body weight and divide by 12. With my weight at 190, that figure is 15.8. For me to torque to 470 ft./lbs., I need to put all of my weight on a point 29.5 inches from the axis of the wrench (470 divided my 15.8). I will get a metal pipe and mark it about 29"........I need to take off about 1/2" since the bar will not go all of the way to the axis of the wrench. I will then put my hand centered over the mark, put my knee on my hand, and put all my weight on that knee....a little balancing act is needed.

You will probably need a 3/4" breaker bar and appropriate socket to use this method. If calculated correctly, I betcha this method is ranks right up there with a torque wrench.

[mark0224]

Amazon.com: CDI Torque 6002LDIN 3/8-Inch Drive Memory Needle Dual Scale Torque Wrench, Torque Range 0 to 600-Inc: Home Improvement
found this goes to 600 pounds / inch but is not cheap. Would have to agree with MtnGuy about the pipe on the breaker bar but you won't be able to tell if you have gotten to your goal or exceeded it, tried to find one in 3/4 inch size but they were running around $500 minimum.

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by mark0224

Amazon.com: CDI Torque 6002LDIN 3/8-Inch Drive Memory Needle Dual Scale Torque Wrench, Torque Range 0 to 600-Inc: Home Improvement
found this goes to 600 pounds / inch but is not cheap. Would have to agree with MtnGuy about the pipe on the breaker bar but you won't be able to tell if you have gotten to your goal or exceeded it, tried to find one in 3/4 inch size but they were running around $500 minimum.

600lb/in is only 50lb/ft.

3 4" Drive 500 ft lb Dial Torque Wrench New Made in USA Utica DA4500FM | eBay

[mark0224]

Sorry read the ad wrong but the ones that did register 600 ft/lbs did have rather extreme prices for a one time use. Still think I would go with MtnGuy and use a pipe and 3/4 in breaker bar.

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by mark0224

Sorry read the ad wrong but the ones that did register 600 ft/lbs did have rather extreme prices for a one time use. Still think I would go with MtnGuy and use a pipe and 3/4 in breaker bar.

I always used a crescent wrench and a 3' -4' pc of pipe with the hitch turned sideways in the receiver. Usually either drilled and cotter pinned the nut or just tack welded the ball.

[Jimsue]

Finding an affordable 17/8" thin walled deep socket to fit over the ball shank nut and a wrench to tighten it is proving to be a challenge. Guess Taking it to Terrytown Camper Service Dept and letting them tighten it for a small fee would be a more affordable option. Thanks everyone for your advice. Whew. Didn't know putting a nut on a bolt could be so complicated...

[davel1971]

Originally Posted by force

I'm not sure my impact wrench could even muster 470 ft lbs...

My new 3/4 drive impact gun is about 1500 ft lbs.

[TeJay]

If you are going to own a TT you may have to tighten one of these large nuts again. HF will have a set of large sockets for not to bad of a price. They are usually guaranteed as well.

I like mtnguy's idea. That's pretty slick and that's what I would do. But nobody mentioned that you should also use either Blue or red lock-tight on the threads. That's just incase you don't hit the correct torque. A nut with blue LT on it can be loosened with a regular socket. One with red LT will have to be heated. Anytime I'm tightening things on the suspension I always torque and use lock-tight as a safety precaution. That just makes sense to me.

TeJay

[Platokidd]

Originally Posted by Jim Coolyard

Finding an affordable 17/8" thin walled deep socket to fit over the ball shank nut and a wrench to tighten it is proving to be a challenge. Guess Taking it to Terrytown Camper Service Dept and letting them tighten it for a small fee would be a more affordable option. Thanks everyone for your advice. Whew. Didn't know putting a nut on a bolt could be so complicated...

JobSmart&reg; 3/4 in. Drive 1-7/8 in. Socket - Tractor Supply Co.



http://www.engineersedge.com/manufac..._extension.htm

[force]

Originally Posted by davel1971

My new 3/4 drive impact gun is about 1500 ft lbs.

Wow, had no idea they were that strong, cool (I have just a 3/8" one)

Although in this case, MtnGuy's response is perfect because it's got Science! (and it's a lot closer to free lol)

[MtnGuy]

The tractor posts have been moved to here: http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ead-57865.html

[avolnek]

Man... way too much thought in this thread....

Wrench the nut down as tight as you can with out blowing out your sphincter and move on... There is typically a lock nut there so it's not like the dang thing is going to come loose...

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by avolnek

Man... way too much thought in this thread....

Wrench the nut down as tight as you can with out blowing out your sphincter and move on... There is typically a lock nut there so it's not like the dang thing is going to come loose...

Never seen one with a lock nut, but a std nut and a lockwasher. I usually just tightened with it turned 90° in the receiver with a crescent and a pc of pipe and then either drilled and cotter pinned the nut or tack welded the ball or both. Never had one come loose in over 35 yrs of towing a trailer.

[avolnek]

I stand corrected... yes a lock washer...

[davel1971]

don't they all pretty much rust in place after installation, never to be removed again. Just giver er all you got with the biggest tool you got.

[davidjb]

I have the same hitch, to tighten it I jammed something in the well where the nut is and used a 2 foot stilson with a bar on it at the base of the ball.

[Platokidd]

Originally Posted by davel1971

don't they all pretty much rust in place after installation, never to be removed again. Just giver er all you got with the biggest tool you got.

Not always . They can loosen up.

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