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05-02-2013, 08:33 AM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 34
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Torque Wrench Recommendation
Bought a propride 3p. Sean recommended using a torque wrench for install. I don't own one. Does anyone have a recommendation?
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05-02-2013, 08:46 AM
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#2
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Savannah, Tennessee
Posts: 83
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Just bought a 1/2" torque wrench from Harbor Freight for $9.95 plus $6.95 shipping a few months back. Works great.
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05-02-2013, 08:52 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: USA
Posts: 171
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The harbor freight is good but it tops at 150ftlb if you do not want to buy call local parts stores (autozone. Advance auto. Oreilly) most have lend a tool where you put a deposit down take tool use it return it get deposit back
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05-02-2013, 09:03 AM
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#4
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chfranco
Bought a propride 3p. Sean recommended using a torque wrench for install. I don't own one. Does anyone have a recommendation?
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If you are planning on adding it to your tools, get a good one from a reputable firm. I have a Williams 0#-250# which cost over $100 and that was 35 yrs ago. Read the reviews on the HF torque wrenches and you'll find they are only an oversized ratchet. Not good for actual torqueing.
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05-02-2013, 09:11 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 319
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I would say it depends on what you are using it for. Make sure it can handle the job. We took delivery of a TT about a month ago and the driver over torqued the WDH bolts because he didn’t have the proper tool. The job called for 257 ft/lbs and most standard wrenches (under a $100) do not get that high. As a result when we needed to make an adjustment to the WDH we snapped a wrench trying to get them loose.
FROM BLUE OX MANUAL:
“The ball height needs to be 1” to 2” higher than the trailer coupler height, adjust as necessary. Torque the 3/4”-10 bolts to 257 ft/lbs.”
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05-02-2013, 09:19 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Canton, Michigan
Posts: 1,348
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I know that HF get a bad rep, and I'm sure that their tools do not perform or last as well as Snap-on, etc. However, I can confirm that the torque wrenches from HF that I have owned for several years have mainteined calibration, as confirmed in the labs where I work.
Like any tool, use them for their intended purpose, follow instructions, and do not torque beyond their rating, nor beyond where you have them set.
The good thing is that if my wrench does go out of calibration after 5 years of use, I can't just buy another one and not break the bank. I just don't use them enough to justify top dollar.
__________________
thebrakeman ('70), DW ('71), DD ('99), DD ('01), DD ('05)
2004 Surveyor SV261T (UltraLite Bunkhouse Hybrid)
2006 Mercury Mountaineer V8 AWD Premier
Equal-i-zer WDH (10k), Prodigy Brake Controller
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05-02-2013, 09:23 AM
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#7
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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caveat emptor
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05-02-2013, 09:34 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: West St. Paul, Manitoba
Posts: 886
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Being a Mechanic (retired) for over 36 years, the best money can buy are Snap-on or Mac, however there are lesser know brands that can do the job! Sears (craftsman), Gray, Proto, etc. Now there are different types as well, beam, dial, click type. Starting at approx $30 and up. Get what works best for you as long as it works properly!!
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Of all the things I've lost in my life the thing I miss the most is my mind!
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05-02-2013, 09:52 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Langley, BC
Posts: 903
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I looked all over town and could not find one to rent that goes up to 300 ftlbs. so I bought one. Came in handy anyway for redoing the front end of our truck. I got one from Princess Auto which is sort of our equivalent of HF. Even came with a certificate with a signature from the guy in China that calibrated it. Sure am relieved to know it's gonna be super accurate.
My trusty ol' 3/8" Snapon doesn't go high enough for the lug nuts on our truck so the new 3/4" drive torque wrench is good for that too. Had the tires balanced recently and found that the shop was quite low using their pneumatic torque wrench. So for the $99 I invested in the new torque wrench, I think it is a good long term investment. Can never have too many tools anyway. Interestingly, I checked the by-hand torque value on our Subaru when I took the snow tires off and found that I was pretty close.
When I picked up our new trailer and took our new Reese strait-line along, the dealer just used a battery operated impact/torque gun. Yikes. Torqued it all when I got home. I can't believe a dealer would not use a torque wrench on a hitch.
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Gil & Deb & Dougal the Springer Spaniel
Langley, BC
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05-02-2013, 10:54 AM
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#10
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Shenandoah Valley of Virginia
Posts: 9,280
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If you can push straight down on the nut, then it might not even be necessary for a torque wrench. It hard to justify spending a couple hundred dollars on a 500 lb. torque wrench that will be used on a couple of times a year.
As you all know, torque is measured in foot pounds. All of my 190 lbs. exerted on a spot 1 foot from the bolt axis is 190 ft/lbs. 2 foot from the bolt axis is 380 lbs. If I need to tighten the bolts on my hitch, I turn the shank over so that I have to push the breaker bar down to tighten the bolts. My 190 lbs. exerts 15.8 lbs. every 1 inch (190 divided by 12). If I need 300 ft/lbs, then I mark a spot on my breaker bar 19" from the bolt axis. (300 ft/lbs/ divided by 15.8). I then center my hand over that spot, put my knee on my hand, and carefully balance all of my weight there.
You can also use scales. I have a breaker bar with a union on it exactly 4 ft from bolt axis. Standing directly over the scales, and getting the breaker bar as near parallel to the ground as possible, I push down on the union until the weight on my scales show 115 Lbs......a loss of 75 lbs. (300 ft/lbs divided by 4 (ft) is 75 lbs.
The same goes with tightening the hitch ball to 450 lbs....for this I have to turn my hitch 1/4 turn to the right. My 190 lbs. minus 112 lbs (78 lbs.) is what should be showing on my scales using the 4 ft breaker bar, again making sure the bar is directly over the scales and parallel to the ground. Using the other method, I would need to put all of my weight on a point 28.5 inches from the bolt axis (450 ft/lbs. divided by the previously calculated 15.8 lbs per inch)
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Chap , DW Joy, and Fur Baby Sango
2017 F350 Lariat CCSB, SRW, 4x4, 6.7 PS
2017 Grand Design Reflection 337RLS
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05-02-2013, 11:44 AM
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#11
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtnguy
If you can push straight down on the nut, then it might not even be necessary for a torque wrench. It hard to justify spending a couple hundred dollars on a 500 lb. torque wrench that will be used on a couple of times a year.
As you all know, torque is measured in foot pounds. All of my 190 lbs. exerted on a spot 1 foot from the bolt axis is 190 ft/lbs. 2 foot from the bolt axis is 380 lbs. If I need to tighten the bolts on my hitch, I turn the shank over so that I have to push the breaker bar down to tighten the bolts. My 190 lbs. exerts 15.8 lbs. every 1 inch (190 divided by 12). If I need 300 ft/lbs, then I mark a spot on my breaker bar 19" from the bolt axis. (300 ft/lbs/ divided by 15.8). I then center my hand over that spot, put my knee on my hand, and carefully balance all of my weight there.
You can also use scales. I have a breaker bar with a union on it exactly 4 ft from bolt axis. Standing directly over the scales, and getting the breaker bar as near parallel to the ground as possible, I push down on the union until the weight on my scales show 115 Lbs......a loss of 75 lbs. (300 ft/lbs divided by 4 (ft) is 75 lbs.
The same goes with tightening the hitch ball to 450 lbs....for this I have to turn my hitch 1/4 turn to the right. My 190 lbs. minus 112 lbs (78 lbs.) is what should be showing on my scales using the 4 ft breaker bar, again making sure the bar is directly over the scales and parallel to the ground. Using the other method, I would need to put all of my weight on a point 28.5 inches from the bolt axis (450 ft/lbs. divided by the previously calculated 15.8 lbs per inch)
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Only one correction mtnguy, to be technically correct, torque is measured in lb-ft, horsepower is ft-lb.
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05-02-2013, 11:55 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Eastern Ontario
Posts: 4,167
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldCoot
Only one correction mtnguy, to be technically correct, torque is measured in lb-ft, horsepower is ft-lb.
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OldCoot you might be correct, but all my torque wrenches are mark either foot/lbs or in/lbs on them.....
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Fonzie
2011 Rockwood 8319SS with ProPride 3P hitch/GoodYear Marathons/TST TPMS 507
2019 F350 Ruby Red 6.7l diesel 3.31 axle electronic locker
Yamaha 3000iseb generator:Progressive Ind. EMS-HW30C : Eastern Ontario
Nights Camped: 2014 (18) 2015 (18) 2016 (36) 2017 (32) 2018 (42) 2019 (28) 2020 (35)
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05-02-2013, 12:01 PM
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#13
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fonzie
OldCoot you might be correct, but all my torque wrenches are mark either foot/lbs or in/lbs on them.....
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It is a very common error, The SI unit for torque is the newton metre (N·m) or in English terms pound feet (lb·ft)
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05-02-2013, 12:08 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Eastern Ontario
Posts: 4,167
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Thanks, learn something everyday, which makes it a good day......
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Fonzie
2011 Rockwood 8319SS with ProPride 3P hitch/GoodYear Marathons/TST TPMS 507
2019 F350 Ruby Red 6.7l diesel 3.31 axle electronic locker
Yamaha 3000iseb generator:Progressive Ind. EMS-HW30C : Eastern Ontario
Nights Camped: 2014 (18) 2015 (18) 2016 (36) 2017 (32) 2018 (42) 2019 (28) 2020 (35)
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05-02-2013, 01:26 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Canton, Michigan
Posts: 1,348
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldCoot
Only one correction mtnguy, to be technically correct, torque is measured in lb-ft, horsepower is ft-lb.
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ft-lb or lb-ft, same thing. There may be a standard convension, but they both mean the same thing, neither of which is a unit of power.
Horsepower is a unit of power, and is never stated in terms of ft-lb or lb-ft (which are units of torque).
The amount of power is expressed as so many "horsepower", or "hp", or some other unit of power (watt, Btu/hour, etc).
__________________
thebrakeman ('70), DW ('71), DD ('99), DD ('01), DD ('05)
2004 Surveyor SV261T (UltraLite Bunkhouse Hybrid)
2006 Mercury Mountaineer V8 AWD Premier
Equal-i-zer WDH (10k), Prodigy Brake Controller
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05-02-2013, 01:33 PM
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#16
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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From Horsepower - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
The mechanical horsepower, also known as imperial horsepower, of exactly 550 foot-pounds per second is approximately equivalent to 745.7 watts.
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05-02-2013, 02:17 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Martinez, CA
Posts: 371
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Wow! He just wanted a suggestion for a torque wrench.
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2012 Rockwood Windjammer 3008 W
2020 Tundra Dbl Cab 4X4 SR5
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05-02-2013, 02:19 PM
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#18
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Senior Moment
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Weatherford, TX
Posts: 178
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buffalohunter
Wow! He just wanted a suggestion for a torque wrench.
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Guess that's what they mean by TMI.
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05-02-2013, 02:30 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Langley, BC
Posts: 903
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Well, my Haynes Ford manual refers to ft-lbs and my old import car manuals refer to ft-lbs. But I have seen it as lb-ft too. Some say tomato and some say tomato. Ft-lbs seems to roll off the tongue easier....
Just be glad you don't to deal with metric all the time. Very, very glad. Then you'd have to deal with things like kilopascals for air pressure, liters per 100 kilometers for gas mileage and yes, newtons for force. I can't stand it for the most part. Then we have mixed systems in use in Canada. Like lumber is sold in feet and inches like a 2x4 stud or 4x8 sheet of plywood. Canada officially converted to metric in the 70s. But if you went to a lumber yard and asked for a 38x89 mm stud they'd think you were nuts and ask you to go away. Some grocery store items are still sold in both systems. Go figure. 355 mL of pop anyone?
Give me miles, feet and ft-lbs any day of the week.
ps: when the heck did Ford go with metric?? Good thing because all my old tools are metric.
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Gil & Deb & Dougal the Springer Spaniel
Langley, BC
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05-02-2013, 03:30 PM
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#20
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Shenandoah Valley of Virginia
Posts: 9,280
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldCoot
Only one correction mtnguy, to be technically correct, torque is measured in lb-ft, horsepower is ft-lb.
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Whoops. The correct term for torque is lb-ft, but many people (like myself) say ft-lbs. Like another member indicated, it seems to roll off of the tongue better.
__________________
Chap , DW Joy, and Fur Baby Sango
2017 F350 Lariat CCSB, SRW, 4x4, 6.7 PS
2017 Grand Design Reflection 337RLS
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