Tow Vehicle Tires

[KingFisher]

Since I've decided that I can't upgrade my tow vehicle (in sig) I'm wondering about upgrading the tires.

Goodyear Wrangler SRA P265/65R18

I just keep stressing about pulling this 8,000 pound Windjammer to Florida although the few times I've pulled it so far it's pulled great. 7100 pounds on sticker dry weight and going to travel light. One way trip and leaving it there. Hitch weight advertised at 800 pounds, I'm going to go with calling it 1000 pounds to try and be safe. They put 1200 pound bars on the wdh at the dealer.

One part of me says that my silverado tow rating is based on using these tires so I should be ok, not planning on speeding down there.

It would be quite an expensive upgrade, only 9500 miles on the current tires and the truck.
Truck and tires are fine for pulling my other trailer, 5700 pounds dry weight on sticker.

Another thought I've had is just to remove my 180-190 pound camper shell for the trip to increase my payload margin, my payload max is 1745 pounds.
450 pounds humans and dog
190 pounds camper shell
200 pounds in bed
That's 840 pounds, leaving me only 905 pounds left from my 1745 pounds payload for my truck.

No I haven't weighed it, I know I need to.

Just thinking out loud, would appreciate comments.

[Tireman9]

You are making a reasonable effort to pay attention to your weight but there is a good possibility you are at or above your weight limits.

What are the specs for the TV? F & R GAWR, GVWR and combined Gross weight TV + TT? While you are at it with are the specs on the TT? All this is on the vehicle cert labels with possible exception of combined weight limit.

A trip across a platform scale is definitely called for to confirm your estimates are even close.

Upgrading tires may be a good thing but You may find the current tires are at the axle limit.

WDH does not change total weight, just shifts it from TT to TV and from R to F or TV.

Slowing down is good thing but once you hit 65 the load capacity for tires does not increase till you get down in the neighborhood of 25 mph.

[KingFisher]

Originally Posted by Tireman9

You are making a reasonable effort to pay attention to your weight but there is a good possibility you are at or above your weight limits.

What are the specs for the TV? F & R GAWR, GVWR and combined Gross weight TV + TT? While you are at it with are the specs on the TT? All this is on the vehicle cert labels with possible exception of combined weight limit.

A trip across a platform scale is definitely called for to confirm your estimates are even close.

Upgrading tires may be a good thing but You may find the current tires are at the axle limit.

WDH does not change total weight, just shifts it from TT to TV and from R to F or TV.

Slowing down is good thing but once you hit 65 the load capacity for tires does not increase till you get down in the neighborhood of 25 mph.

2015 Silverado Double Cab Standard Bed 4x4.

GVWR 7200
Rear 3950
Front 3950

Gross Combination Weight Rating 15000

Max vehicle capacity weight (payload) 1745

GM tow rating 9200

3001W Windjammer 7100 pounds dry weight on sticker.
Advertised tongue weight of 800 pounds. ( Depends on where you look, some advertise it as 700+), that's why I'm guessing at 1,000 to be safe.

[Tireman9]

Well it looks like your weight ratings are OK. However the 18" wheels IMO are the result of the "Big Wheel" design fashion in the auto industry.

There are some LT tires in 18" rim to choose from. Now to get increased laod capacity or margin you will probably need to go to at least LR-D which are probably rated for 65 psi. Have you looked at your OE wheels to see if there is any indication of max load and/or mas inflation rating?

There is a good chance the OE tires are rated to match the OE tires so you may be looking at a wheel & tire change.

[KingFisher]

My local dealer doesn't carry anything better than what I have, and looking on the internet upgrading tires to LT would be seriously expensive.

So I'll ask an inflation question.

Door sticker says 35 psi cold.

Tire says 51 psi max.

I've always thought I should run the door sticker psi and I have. Should I increase the psi to say, 40 psi?

Or just carry on as I have been.

I notice my Chevy tpms shows me getting up to 39 psi while on the interstate on a warm day but I've never noticed it going above that.

[lbrjet]

Put 40 in your rear tires and stop worrying. You have a 2270 rating per tire at 35 psi and they are practically brand new. Enjoy your trip!


2010 F250 5.4L 3.73
2011 Flagstaff 831FKBSS
Equal-i-zer 4pt 12K

[Tireman9]

Originally Posted by KingFisher

My local dealer doesn't carry anything better than what I have, and looking on the internet upgrading tires to LT would be seriously expensive.

So I'll ask an inflation question.

Door sticker says 35 psi cold.

Tire says 51 psi max.

I've always thought I should run the door sticker psi and I have. Should I increase the psi to say, 40 psi?

Or just carry on as I have been.

I notice my Chevy tpms shows me getting up to 39 psi while on the interstate on a warm day but I've never noticed it going above that.

If your TV is only seeing an 11% increase in pressure and since pressure increases 2% per 10F your tires are only running at about 55F hotter than ambient I see no significant problem.

Personally I usually bump the pressure in my passenger car tires by 10% when setting CIP anyway. Slight improvement in steering response and mpg with slight loss in ride softness.

[DocGTO]

Best and ONLY tire in that size for an "E" load is this:

BFGoodrichÂ*All-Terrain T/A KO2

On sale fore $261/each. Not bad at all.



These tires have a 3305lb load rating. Would help your tow experience greatly.

[Tireman9]

Originally Posted by DocGTO

Best and ONLY tire in that size for an "E" load is this:
BFGoodrichÂ*All-Terrain T/A KO2

On sale fore $261/each. Not bad at all.
These tires have a 3305lb load rating. Would help your tow experience greatly.

Not sure if "All-Terrain" i.e. for off-road use is the "Best" for everyone. A/T tires are nosier and will deliver worse mpg than a "Highway All Season" i.e. rib design. BUT if you have a 4x4 and will be driving off-road with your TT and need Load Range E then you are stuck with very limited choice for tires.

[325BH]

Originally Posted by Tireman9

Not sure if "All-Terrain" i.e. for off-road use is the "Best" for everyone. A/T tires are nosier and will deliver worse mpg than a "Highway All Season" i.e. rib design. BUT if you have a 4x4 and will be driving off-road with your TT and need Load Range E then you are stuck with very limited choice for tires.

I have owned BFGoodrich All Terrain T/A K/O tires. Although they are, in my opinion, the best A/T tire out there... they do come with the cons listed above. The above advice is good.


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[DocGTO]

Originally Posted by Tireman9

Not sure if "All-Terrain" i.e. for off-road use is the "Best" for everyone. A/T tires are nosier and will deliver worse mpg than a "Highway All Season" i.e. rib design. BUT if you have a 4x4 and will be driving off-road with your TT and need Load Range E then you are stuck with very limited choice for tires.

I've used them and they are almost as quiet as my all season tires. My current tires are the Firestone Transforce ATs and they are just as quiet myichelin LTX2s. My last 3/4 Diesel came with ATs from the factory and were quiet. We are driving trucks, not Caddies. LOL.

If he wants to go E load in that tire size, he is very limited and the BFG is a great tire.

[emm-dee]

As I mentioned in another thread, go to any of the truck internet boards and you will find many comments about how bad the SRA tires are. They are more suited for a passenger car. I've had them on two new trucks and changed to E-loads. The improvement in sideways stability is amazing.

The manufacturers use them because they are cheap.

[windsurfdog]

I've got over 52k miles on my SRA's now...getting ready to replace...maybe with same tire, maybe Michelin LTX m/s2...tread wear has been perfectly even with 40 psi cold and rotating every 10k. Towing a 21' trailer with no mushiness at all. $.02...