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Old 10-11-2018, 09:34 AM   #1
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Tow vehicle weight transfer from trailer

My question is that when you attach your trailer and use a properly fitted weight distribution hitch is the max weight you are transferring to your tow vehicle the max cargo rate your truck is rated for.
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Old 10-11-2018, 10:39 AM   #2
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Let me take a stab at this....

If the tongue weight is 1000 pounds sitting on the ball and no WD bars are in place, the 1000 pounds of tongue weight is on the ball. As the rear axle acts as a fulcrum point, the front axle is lifted slightly.

Once the bars are applied and working, the upward tension relieves some of the 1000 pound pressure off the ball and pushes it to the tow vehicle's front axle and the trailer axles. So, the ball might only see a weight of 600 pounds, the front axle will see an additional 200 pounds and the trailer axles will see an additional 200 pounds.

And, you are not really transferring weight. The bars are applying tension to help bridge the weight and support the tongue weight more evenly.
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Old 10-11-2018, 10:46 AM   #3
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Short answer: No.

Some weight yes but not normally your TV max payload. You have to leave room in that for you, passengers and stuff.

The WDH transfers some weight OFF the TV's rear/drive axle to the TV's front/steer axle AND some to the TT axle(s).
In my case, the WDH levers about 180# to the front axle and near the same to my single TT axle. My rig sets almost exactly level ith the WDH connected.
So your tongue weight AND any weight pushed onto the TV front axle count as part of your TV payload capacity.
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Old 10-11-2018, 10:52 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boomerweps View Post
Short answer: No.

Some weight yes but not normally your TV max payload. You have to leave room in that for you, passengers and stuff.

The WDH transfers some weight OFF the TV's rear/drive axle to the TV's front/steer axle AND some to the TT axle(s).
In my case, the WDH levers about 180# to the front axle and near the same to my single TT axle. My rig sets almost exactly level ith the WDH connected.
So your tongue weight AND any weight pushed onto the TV front axle count as part of your TV payload capacity.
So the next question is would you maintain your tow vehicles tire pressure as recommended by vehicle manufacturer or air up when towing and why.
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Old 10-11-2018, 11:03 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by mudman2 View Post
So the next question is would you maintain your tow vehicles tire pressure as recommended by vehicle manufacturer or air up when towing and why.
Generally with a WDH you are wanting to RESTORE the weight you lose from the front axle when you hook the trailer up without the WDH.

As for what PSI to use, the door listed PSI is really all you need. However, the best way to determine what PSI to use is to load up like you're going camping, and go hit the scales to see what your axle weights are. Then go look up the load and inflation table for your tires and see what the recommended PSI is (hint: they are virtually identical between all manufacturers - after all, does your door label state which tire manufacturer, or just the tire size and load range?). My label says 65 front, 80 rear. HOWEVER, according to scale weights, I ONLY need 55 front and 45 rear when we're fully loaded up and the truck is just under the 3/4 ton limit of 10k. That way, I get good load carrying ability, traction, tire wear and it doesn't needlessly ride like a tank.
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Old 10-11-2018, 12:49 PM   #6
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“My label says 65 front, 80 rear. HOWEVER, according to scale weights, I ONLY need 55 front and 45 rear when we're fully loaded up and the truck is just under the 3/4 ton limit of 10k. That way, I get good load carrying ability, traction, tire wear and it doesn't needlessly ride like a tank.”

Please don’t tell noobs to this, it’s wrong. Even if the weight on the tires doesn’t need full rated pressure it increases tire cornering stiffness which increases grip as well maintains proper TV oversteer.
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Old 10-11-2018, 12:50 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lins View Post
Generally with a WDH you are wanting to RESTORE the weight you lose from the front axle when you hook the trailer up without the WDH.

As for what PSI to use, the door listed PSI is really all you need. However, the best way to determine what PSI to use is to load up like you're going camping, and go hit the scales to see what your axle weights are. Then go look up the load and inflation table for your tires and see what the recommended PSI is (hint: they are virtually identical between all manufacturers - after all, does your door label state which tire manufacturer, or just the tire size and load range?). My label says 65 front, 80 rear. HOWEVER, according to scale weights, I ONLY need 55 front and 45 rear when we're fully loaded up and the truck is just under the 3/4 ton limit of 10k. That way, I get good load carrying ability, traction, tire wear and it doesn't needlessly ride like a tank.

Don't just use the door sticker, check to see if the tyres have been upgraded by yourself or a previous owner.
I have LTs on my TV, they call for 60# whereas the door sticker is for the original "P" series tyres rated at 35#. I ride with my LTs set to 50# to soften the ride but bump them to 60 when towing so as to get my full payload capability.
If you have upgraded tyres, watch out for the oil change people, they look at the door sticker (maybe) or more likely not and deflate the pressure to 35#, last four oil changes I've had to have them re-inflate back to 50.

Lastly, you get the maximum capacity of the tyres when they are inflated to their max pressure as rated on the sidewall of said tyres, as you decrease the pressure you also decrease the weight carrying capability of the tyres.


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Old 10-11-2018, 01:20 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dustyhd View Post
“My label says 65 front, 80 rear. HOWEVER, according to scale weights, I ONLY need 55 front and 45 rear when we're fully loaded up and the truck is just under the 3/4 ton limit of 10k. That way, I get good load carrying ability, traction, tire wear and it doesn't needlessly ride like a tank.”

Please don’t tell noobs to this, it’s wrong. Even if the weight on the tires doesn’t need full rated pressure it increases tire cornering stiffness which increases grip as well maintains proper TV oversteer.

X2

Running rear tyres almost at half pressure (56%) while truck is at gross is scary, tyre roll and edge tread ware, damn, Lins should talk to a tyre specialist.

That being said I do run about 15% under max on all four corners when running lightly loaded. But that is the minimum I would run at for the reasons you stated Dustyhd.



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Old 10-11-2018, 01:29 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by wabakami View Post
X2

Running rear tyres almost at half pressure (56%) while truck is at gross is scary, tyre roll and edge tread ware, damn, Lins should talk to a tyre specialist.

That being said I do run about 15% under max on all four corners when running lightly loaded. But that is the minimum I would run at for the reasons you stated Dustyhd.



Geoff
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I've researched the numbers and am getting perfect tire wear after an alignment and adjusting the pressures per scale weights and load and inflation tables - which Ram used to provide and I have from a 2016 model. They also used to provide a 'light load' switch for when you were running empty. You guys need to do research yourself and stop telling everyone they need to max out their tire pressure.
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Old 10-11-2018, 01:36 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dustyhd View Post
“My label says 65 front, 80 rear. HOWEVER, according to scale weights, I ONLY need 55 front and 45 rear when we're fully loaded up and the truck is just under the 3/4 ton limit of 10k. That way, I get good load carrying ability, traction, tire wear and it doesn't needlessly ride like a tank.”

Please don’t tell noobs to this, it’s wrong. Even if the weight on the tires doesn’t need full rated pressure it increases tire cornering stiffness which increases grip as well maintains proper TV oversteer.
How about you post the sentences I typed before that.
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