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Old 09-02-2016, 10:12 AM   #1
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Towing a Cedar Creek 33IK

DW and I are new to the forums as we are buying the 33IK and a truck in the next few weeks. Two questions:

One CC salesman says I have to use a Chev Duramax 3500HD. The second CC dealer says a 2500HD will do fine.

Secondly, will I need to use a slider hitch if my truck has a 6 1/2 bed? Pros or cons?

If we pull this off we will see you all out there.

Jim and Janet
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Old 09-02-2016, 11:50 AM   #2
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To be sure you get the right truck, look at the gross vehicle weight rating of your prospective trailer then multiple by 20-25% which will give you the pin weight of the trailer when fully loaded (I would use the 25% factor to be safe). Then compare that with the Payload capacity of a 2500 & 3500 truck you are looking at. When you look at the payload capacity, don't forget to subtract the weight of any passengers, your weight over 150 lbs. if that applies and gear you may carry in the truck. It is not uncommon when towing a 5th wheel to find the pin weight is close to, at, or exceeds the payload capacity of a 2500. If the results are at or just under, you might consider a 3500 anyway as for not a lot of $$ more it will give you more payload capacity, which is nice to have the flexibility.
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Old 09-02-2016, 02:34 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim10Yes View Post
DW and I are new to the forums as we are buying the 33IK and a truck in the next few weeks. Two questions:

One CC salesman says I have to use a Chev Duramax 3500HD. The second CC dealer says a 2500HD will do fine.

Secondly, will I need to use a slider hitch if my truck has a 6 1/2 bed? Pros or cons?

If we pull this off we will see you all out there.

Jim and Janet
Do you already have the 3/4 ton truck?

Some will tell you that you can get by without a slider hitch for a 6'-5" box, because of the new style caps and the extended pin boxes.

Will in my very humble opinion I would buy the slider hitch. It is better to have and not need the hitch than to find out after you have failed the window and dented the cab that you needed the slider hitch.

I have always owned short bed trucks and I do have a slider hitch. I use the hitch occasionally when I am in very tight campgrounds and putting the camper in the driveway at home. Otherwise the hitch is in the towed position and I can drive anywhere I need to drive when towing my 5er.
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Old 09-02-2016, 09:48 PM   #4
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Jim if you go gas 2500 there good chance you will have enough payload but you will probably exceed the Gross Combine Ratings. If you diesel 2500 you will have the tow capacity but probably be over your payload. With 1 ton most likely you will be under all the manufacture specs.

Really good video on how to match your truck to your rv

Matching Trucks to Trailers
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Old 09-02-2016, 10:10 PM   #5
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I can't speak to Duramax as I have a F250 and pull a 33IK. I am over payload. Truck pulls fantastic and I don't notice any issues but I know I'm over payload. I have a diesel (only way to go IMHO when you get to bigger toys) but this eats into payload. My buddy just bought a new Montana 5ver and was looking at a 250 and I convinced him to go SRW F350.

My recommend is get the 3500 SRW. I don't know about Chevy but Ford the price difference is about $1000. You will have plenty of payload and when you upgrade you will be set.

BTW I am completely happy with how my F250 tows and will be keeping the F250 even though the WP on this site will have a diffent opinion..
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Old 09-02-2016, 10:18 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Hermes1 View Post
To be sure you get the right truck, look at the gross vehicle weight rating of your prospective trailer then multiple by 20-25% which will give you the pin weight of the trailer when fully loaded (I would use the 25% factor to be safe). Then compare that with the Payload capacity of a 2500 & 3500 truck you are looking at. When you look at the payload capacity, don't forget to subtract the weight of any passengers, your weight over 150 lbs. if that applies and gear you may carry in the truck. It is not uncommon when towing a 5th wheel to find the pin weight is close to, at, or exceeds the payload capacity of a 2500. If the results are at or just under, you might consider a 3500 anyway as for not a lot of $$ more it will give you more payload capacity, which is nice to have the flexibility.

I agree...
I started out with a 3/4 ton Chevy diesel towing a fifth wheel copper canyon with a slider hitch, only has to use slider once. was not happy...traded camper and truck in bought a cedar creek and new Chevy 1 ton dully best investment in my opinion. Like what the above says, you are not paying much more for a 1 ton...like the duel wheels in the rear you don't get the rocking side to side like a single wheel truck. My 3/4 ton rock and roll side to side, don't have this issue with my dully.


2014 cedar creek 36ckts
2014 Chevy 3500 1 ton crew cab 4x4 long bed.


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Old 09-02-2016, 10:32 PM   #7
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I agree...
I started out with a 3/4 ton Chevy diesel towing a fifth wheel copper canyon with a slider hitch, only has to use slider once. was not happy...traded camper and truck in bought a cedar creek and new Chevy 1 ton dully best investment in my opinion. Like what the above says, you are not paying much more for a 1 ton...like the duel wheels in the rear you don't get the rocking side to side like a single wheel truck. My 3/4 ton rock and roll side to side, don't have this issue with my dully.


2014 cedar creek 36ckts
2014 Chevy 3500 1 ton crew cab 4x4 long bed.


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I don't have any rock and roll with my SRW F250 but I'm sure the DRW adds to stability. I also have the short bed and I recommend getting a slider. I have never used mine as the front of the 33IK is shaped to allow a pretty sharp turn but I can't do a 90. Pretty close but no way. Let me tell you a story about my buddy I convinced to get a F350. He got a slider hitch but did not use it the very first time he backed his brand new Montana with his brand new F350 into his driveway. He remembered me saying I've never had to use it. Pow, blew out a rear window. The Montana cap design and the 33IK cap design are completely different. Get the slider! It does not have to be automatic but you want the option. Just remember depending on the truck and payload when you start adding auto slider capabilities you are also eating into payload...
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Old 09-02-2016, 10:49 PM   #8
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Go with the 3500, duramax/allison
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Old 09-03-2016, 12:42 AM   #9
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I had a F250 diesel with the camper package. I was well over payload even if it were a gasser. I bought an F350 SWD diesel. I have zero sway and do not notice when semis pass or I pass them. If the poster with the 2500 noticed sway and the F250 does not, that alone should eliminate the 2500. Often you can purchase an F350 at the same price or very close to the same as an F250. Well worth being under all weight numbers.
The Ford short bed is a few inches longer than the Chevy but I still have a slider. It does add more weight and I rarely use it, but when needed you will be overjoyed it is there. Another reason for the F350. Nothing like a diesel for the torque, HP, and engine brake descending steep hills/mountains. Seriously, a 2500 or 250 is only a slight step up from a 1500/F150.
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Old 09-03-2016, 12:18 PM   #10
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You will never be sorry you got the F350. It is awesome! In the mountains you don't have to worry about going up or down.
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