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Old 09-26-2007, 02:38 PM   #11
RAC
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Join Date: Jul 2007
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Base Vehicle
Model: 2006 Ford F-150 Lariat Super Cab
4x2
Styleside
145 Wheel base
6.5 ft Cargo Box
7050# GVWR

Power train:
Engine: 5.4L 3-valve V8
Exhaust System: High performance cat back dual rear exit exhaust system

Differential: 3.73:1 gear ratio with limited slip differential

Transmission: Ford 4R100 4 speed automatic with overdrive
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Old 09-26-2007, 02:39 PM   #12
RAC
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I'm really surprised they have such a high gear in your truck with the tow package. Just make sure you leave overdrive off and you'll be fine.
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Old 09-26-2007, 08:13 PM   #13
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Yep Im looking at the window sticker and it says:
3.55 Ratio limited slip axel
7200# GVWR Package
Trailer Tow package
Electronic 4 spd auto over drive

Dont know why they would use that either other than being able to get better milage. Although I only get about 15/16 mpg since i put the cap on it now and 18 before.
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Old 09-27-2007, 07:52 AM   #14
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Yeah, the cap puts a lot of drag where the "bubble used to be in the bed and mad air miss the tailgate. I said earlier the dealer let me tow it befor I bout it. I would recommend that.
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Old 10-02-2007, 02:07 PM   #15
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Well I had allready signed the papers with out making that tow before you buy stipulation. I pick up the trailer tomorrow. BTW I received my Equal-I-zer Hitch over the weekend. The RV dealer was not to pleased because I was originally going to buy his unit made by Reese so he is going to charge me to install it, go figure. At least I know that I have done every thing possiable to make it safe to tow this weight of trailer with my F-150. Who knows maybe next year I will be trading it for an F-250. Really dont want to take a large hit on the truck however some times you have to "Pay to Play". I was on the fence about buying the Blast 210 model weighing in at 4200# however something had to be cheapened up to get it down to the number so I decided to go this route with the heavyer unit. Hope I have not made a mistake.
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Old 10-02-2007, 04:49 PM   #16
RAC
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Installation of the hitch is pretty easy if you have a little mechanical know how and a good torque wrench.
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Old 10-02-2007, 04:51 PM   #17
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You'll be good to go. Remember, The difference between 60 MPH and 65 MPH is 120 miles over a 24 hour period (2 hours) and HORRIBLE gas mileage. Slow and easy. At least that's what....nevermind
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Old 10-03-2007, 12:48 PM   #18
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Actually I have quite a bit of mechanical ability to do the job, what I dont have is a thinwall sockt to tighten the ball nut. I have partilly assembled the hitch. I am going see if they will let me do the rest on there premises brfore i leave. I just ordered a set of new airbags on ebay for a third of what they retail for to assist in the weight distribution. That way I can air them up for towing only.
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Old 10-03-2007, 12:59 PM   #19
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Pretty cool.....I used a thinwall and an impact wrench. Hardest part was setting the stupid angle. Remember to have the bags on the Truck when you go to have it set up, because they need to level the brackets on the tongue to the TV. No bags, and they'll set the brackets too low.
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Old 10-05-2007, 09:31 AM   #20
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Well I picked the trailer up on Wensday. Unfortunatly I did not receive the air bags in time so I will have to reset the tension angle after I install them. As it stood it towed fine however it was also unloaded. Should i have the load in the trailer before I reset the tension angle or just change it with the air pressure. I'm thinking use the air pressure to adjust ride hieght would be easyer than having to change the tension angle for when Im just camping versus when I take the Sandrail or Pilot and 4 wheelers.
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