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Old 01-24-2016, 06:26 PM   #1
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Towing A128S with Minivan

I just got a A128S and need to get my 2016 Sienna Minivan converted with a hitch. I would also appreciate any hints about driving the minivan with the A128 S. I have driven 20-35 ft straight vans and RVs before but never towed anything. Looking forward to seeing the great outdoors once the snow in New Jersey melts in a month or two

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Old 01-24-2016, 06:37 PM   #2
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You will need more than hitch, You also need a brake controller, a 7 Pin connector with wiring and depending on where you plan to tow an aux trans cooler.


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Old 01-24-2016, 07:00 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Flybob View Post
You will need more than hitch, You also need a brake controller, a 7 Pin connector with wiring and depending on where you plan to tow an aux trans cooler.

Towing a RV trailer, with a minivan that doesn't have the factory tow package, requires more than just a hitch receiver.
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Old 01-26-2016, 02:53 PM   #4
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Depending on how you load the storage compartment (affects tongue weight), you will probably want/will like a combination weight distributing hitch/anti-sway.

We tow with a Hyundai Entourage minivan. When we went to pick up our A122, a test drive revealed a lot of porpoising (bobbing of both A122 and minivan). Dealer suggested an Equalizer 2 point WDH/anti-sway. Now tows like a dream, minivan rides almost stock while towing. Ride is good enough for wife to drive while towing, even in 30+ MPH crosswinds on the interstate.

Normal tow weight of A122 when camping is 2800 lbs plus/minus for water. Minivan carries 2 coolers with food and drink, camp chairs, EZ-up, outdoor carpet, 2-4 gym bags of clothes, and up to 4 adults.

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Old 01-30-2016, 06:11 AM   #5
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First of all, congrats on the new camper. Second, the Sienna will do great when properly equipped. We pull a 2015 Rockwood 2318G, approximately the same weight loaded as yours, with a 2011 Sienna LE, which is the same generation as yours. Below are the steps we took to get the van ready to tow safely and carry my family of six at the same time.

1). Make sure you have the towing prep package, which includes an oil cooler, extra large radiator to help cool the transmission fluid, and some, remains unused, wiring.

2). Have a class III hitch receiver installed, DIY or other.

3). Install 4-pin wiring, tap into brake and turn signals. This is quite easy, but be sure to get a powered system that requires running a wire to the battery of the TV. Etrailer sells the specific parts and has some great videos for guidance.

4). Purchase and install your choice of brake controller and 7-pin plug. We mounted ours to the hitch receiver and cut out just a bit of the plastic bumper molding so it could be pointed up as the van is rather low to the ground anyway. Our brake controller is a Prodigy P2. The installation is a bit interesting, but Etrailer is your friend here as well. The most difficult part was getting the dual wires, used to power the controller and tap into the brake signal, into the cab. Find a small person to help you. There is a large grommet above the brake pedal (carries all wires from the engine compartment into cab, USE CAUTION!) near the steering column, through which you can carefully feed your wires. There are a couple of bonus soft spots on the outer edge. Make the proper connections, mount the controller and that part is all set.

5). Find a weight distribution hitch that you like. To save weight, use no grease, and essentially have no sway, we use the Andersen No-sway system. It works great for low weight trailers like ours.

6). We use air lift suspension helpers as well, but have found we only need about 10 psi to keep everything level and towing smoothly.

7). Our current mileage, through the hills of eastern Ohio, southern Kentucky, some would say mountains of Tennessee, and western PA averages just a tick above 19 mpg.

Sorry for the long post, but wanted to share our story towing with the same vehicle.

Best of luck,

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Old 01-30-2016, 06:12 AM   #6
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One last item, get a nice set of clamp on towing mirrors.
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Old 02-03-2016, 11:21 AM   #7
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Chances are the wright your towing is better off than this guy...

"We're pretty sure that just because a car meets the payload requirement of the truck doesn't mean it can just be loaded on back. At least this truck driver is being real safe and using a tow strap. We'd hate to see what happens when he hits the freeway. Oh, wait – he's on the freeway. Where's his DOT “Caution! Wide load!” sign?!"
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Old 02-03-2016, 12:01 PM   #8
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If the trailer has brakes you will need a 7 pin, not a 4 pin plug.

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Old 02-03-2016, 04:14 PM   #9
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Just a clarification, in step 4, the 4-pin plug you installed originally is connected to the new 7-pin plug along with the 12 V line and brake controller wire. Stepwise process for vehicles not originally wired to tow. Hope that helps.


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