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Old 08-01-2011, 08:23 PM   #11
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Thanks!

I really appreciate the input from everyone! I do have extended mirrors. I used to drive a truck (large set van) and ever since rely on my outside mirrors and I do monitor my TT. SECOND question! If I get one myself, is it something I can install? IS one a little easier to install than another. And I can read manuals and follow instructions
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Old 08-01-2011, 08:41 PM   #12
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I hope you do get one. You'll notice an improvement.

Many people on here and other boards have good things to say about the Equal-i-zer 4-point and about Reese Dual Cam. The Equal-i-zer can be bought online for cheaply at RV Wholdesalers. Set up of the Equal-i-zer can be done by yourself with a few special tools. The Reese requires drilling into the frame IIRC. There are videos on the web that will help show you.

Other wdh that you will run across are the E2, which is a scaled down version of the Equal-i-zer (and not as good as the original) and Blue Ox, which is reportedly as good or better than the equal-i-zer and Reese Dual Cam.

Propride and Hensley are the best, but should be for the $$$$$.
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Old 08-01-2011, 10:14 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pkdennis0504 View Post
I really appreciate the input from everyone! I do have extended mirrors. I used to drive a truck (large set van) and ever since rely on my outside mirrors and I do monitor my TT. SECOND question! If I get one myself, is it something I can install? IS one a little easier to install than another. And I can read manuals and follow instructions
I can only comment on the Equal-i-zer 4 point sway control hitch. You can install that yourself. Just follow the instructions carefully. Most re-do the hitch set up after they get home from their dealer anyway. I think the dealers find a set up that is "middle ground" and will work for most people.

I did mine after my dealer installed the hitch for the first time and following the manual I found several mistakes they made. I tweaked the set up again when I purchased a new tow vehicle. I haven't had any problems towing including the times I've towed in high winds and rain.

I believe RV Wholesalers have the hitch for under $500 (10,000/1,000 lbs) with free shipping. The dealers around here will charge at least $750 including the installation that you have to re-do.

Good luck and happy camping.
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Old 08-01-2011, 10:24 PM   #14
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Towing setups are a common topic on this board and certainly were on the board for my previous trailer (TrailManor). The information given in the responses to questions is usually spot on. What I find amusing though is just sitting in my campsite watching what rolls through. Headlights are always pointed at the sky. On the highways it is the same story. It seems that the percentage of level riding rigs is at most 20%. Is this unique to my stomping grounds (Central/Southern California) or is the disease a pandemic? It is hard to reconcile the board discussions with what you see rolling around a campground. I guess it must be one of those selection bias things.
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Old 08-01-2011, 11:02 PM   #15
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Had a person leave the CG today pulling a 24' TT with a ball hitch and a 16' boat and trailer on a ball hitch. The TV was an old chevy full size window van.
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Old 08-02-2011, 06:30 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Pkdennis0504 View Post
I really appreciate the input from everyone! I do have extended mirrors. I used to drive a truck (large set van) and ever since rely on my outside mirrors and I do monitor my TT. SECOND question! If I get one myself, is it something I can install? IS one a little easier to install than another. And I can read manuals and follow instructions

I can only comment on the Equal-i-zer. I did the install myself. I did buy the thin wall socket to tighten the ball ($60). I found when I got to that point, I needed a 3/4 inch Tourque rachet drive. I checked around town (small town) and finally found someone with a setup that would work to give me ~400 ft lbs on the ball nut. I had the rest of the tools needed, but they are big sized tools and not everyone would have them. It would probably cost more to have to buy the tools than to have someone install it. But if you have a good friend that will let you borrow them, that would be the trick.

It took me about 2.5 hours to do the install from scratch, by myself. I would do it again, no problem.
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Old 08-02-2011, 08:15 AM   #17
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My set up uses a Reese Dual Cam WDH, which I completely recommend. It's pricey, but worth every penny. It takes a knowledgeable technician to adjust it correctly, so we had ours installed at a hitch dealer we trust. The Dual Cam includes built in sway control, and I wouldn't tow w/out it.
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Old 08-02-2011, 10:05 AM   #18
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You have axle ratings - say, 3500 lb per truck axle. The empty truck may go 5500 lbs, with 3000 on the front and 2500 on the rear.
Now you add fuel, passengers, cargo and it may change to say, 3200 front and 2900 on the rear.
Now you hitch up the trailer and it adds 600lbs of weight to the back, behind the axle, which will shift some of the load to the rear axle plus the weight of the trailer tounge, and of course the hitch itself - you can be overloading your rear axle while still being under your total allowable weight.

A WDH hitch will move some of that weight forward to balance things out.

Whether you need that or not only you can really say - is your avalanche a 1500 or 2500? My neighbor has a lightweith 26' trailer on a 90's F350 diesel and says he finds it tows better without the WDH, but that's a 1 ton truck with some serious suspension and he's not loading much if anything in the bed of the truck.

I've got a reese WDH with the cam anti-sway and I can pass or be passed by anything on the hiway, be on bad roads, off camber roads and never have the tail wagging the dog, go up and down gravel road hills in campgrounds (it's not flat here) and never spin a wheel.

I've towed boat trailers in the past and a pop up and never used a WDH and had more issues than I do now - so I"m a fan of WDH and anti-sway.

I'd say if your comfortable with what youv'e got and you're not overloading your rear axle then go with what you know. I suspect your at about the biggest trailer you'd want with out a WDH.
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Old 08-02-2011, 11:30 AM   #19
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You people are great!! I will continue to ask my IQ's army various times. And what can you say about a guy who's name comes from IMHO one of the greatest comedies ever made? Prof_fate - sign of a person with taste
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Old 08-02-2011, 12:01 PM   #20
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A lot of the issues with towing is there are no experts - I can tell you what I've done, and others will tell you what they've done. My TT had a big sticker that says "small SUV towable" - sure, by whose standards? An explorer can tow 7000 lbs and the TT weighs empty 5500....but when you start to actually figure things out there is no way that would work.
And tow ratings are not much more than a guess or marketing - the type of trailer makes a big difference, the terrain, driver experience, TV condition, weather, etc. Can you tow 7500 lbs? In kansas in may on a sunny afternoon, sure. But climbing a hill in 100F heat in july? Can you accelerate onto the highway safely? Does rain, snow, night, cold or hot make a difference? Is that factored into the tow ratings at all? Speed? Curves?

I"m old enough to remember the anemic power cars put out 30 years ago (ever drive an early 80s diesel rabbit? A corvette with 150hp?) yet there were no lightweight trailers and big 4x4 suvs and 130" wb pickups with 800ft lb of tougue and ABS - and people still camped.

I also say you need to consider how much/often/far you tow - once to the GG in teh spring and once back in the fall, or every weekend for 200 miles in the rockies?
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