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Old 03-21-2014, 10:17 PM   #1
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towing issue

I have an 05 z71, extended cab pic up with 342 gears, with a 5.3 liter motor. I have pulled a short distance, of 5 miles and it pulls and stops ok not counting the local hills that is not so good. I also have a 05 2500 suburban 4x4, with a 6 liter motor, and 373 gears, that I have pulled the same 6600 lb camper for the same distance of about 5 miles to check both trucks out to see how they do. The 6 liter motor does do a little better, than the 5.3 motor, but using the same hitch, on both trucks, the pic up pulls alot smoother than the suburban. The suburban wants to bounch a little, unlike the pic up, and I can feel the camper slightly fish tailing, but can not see it in the mirror. I have street tires on the pic up, and mudders on the suburban. Both have good tires. The pic up has stiff shocks, but so does the suburban. I want to use the suburban for my main tow vehickel, so whats with the camper doing this to my suburban and not my pic up?
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Old 03-21-2014, 10:38 PM   #2
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Do you have a anti-sway system set up? Did you install an electronic brake controller?
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Old 03-21-2014, 10:53 PM   #3
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anti sway would be my suggestion also and the Suburban will bounce a little its ,I believe, a shorter wheel base. Same hitch set up won't work on both either, everything must be level when hooked up, to much tongue weight will make things bounce. Adjust the hitch to make the tongue on the trailer level with the tow vehicle and that should take out what the anti sway doesn't.
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Old 03-22-2014, 02:52 AM   #4
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There is a few things that come to mind.

1) Are you using a weight distribution hitch?
2) Are the tires on the 'Burban LT tires? Soft sidewall? If the tires are flexing, that will give you an uncomfortable feeling. When you say mudders, I am not thinking of a good tire for towing.

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Old 03-22-2014, 09:47 AM   #5
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thanks for the replies, I am using a weight distribution hitch, and the tires on the suburban are not soft but heavy ply tires don't know what class, but the tires were set up 80 lbs in back and 65 in front by the tire place that is a good store. I think the person that helped me set the hitch up did not know the importance of the camper being level. The chains were very tight on it, and the ground we set it up on was not real level, but the camper was leaning back a little, and he told me that was ok, I think if I go back and hook up, and use more chain lenks, like from the 5 I was using to 6 then the camper tounge will be level, and this time I am going to take a level with me. Thanks for the advise and please I can use all i can get.
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Old 03-22-2014, 09:54 AM   #6
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I do have a sway bar, adjusted like I was told to do on both, and a wd hitch. I think the experienced guy that helped me the first time set it up right, but the salesman helped me the second time on the other truck is the problem. going to make it alot more close to level, going on several trips next month and want it right. The suburban sits higher off the ground than the pic up and I think that is one of the differences of the two and the chains on the hitch can't be set up the same way as I need to put more slake in them, to get the camper level.
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Old 03-22-2014, 10:24 AM   #7
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If the suburban sits higher off the ground than the pick up, the hitch head will have to be adjusted to different holes to accommodate the change in height. If the bars are set too tight, this may cause the back of the tow vehicle to bounce and may also take too much weight off of the rear tires which may cause some sway. From people I have talked to, the mudders have caused some sway. The camper should be as level as possible, but it doesn't need to be perfect. If you can't get the trailer perfectly level using the head adjustment and not having the bars too tight, then the nose of the trailer should be slightly lower-this will allow the trailer to track better and may reduce some sway. Hope this makes some sense.
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Old 03-22-2014, 06:22 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eddy G View Post
thanks for the replies, I am using a weight distribution hitch, and the tires on the suburban are not soft but heavy ply tires don't know what class, but the tires were set up 80 lbs in back and 65 in front by the tire place that is a good store. I think the person that helped me set the hitch up did not know the importance of the camper being level. The chains were very tight on it, and the ground we set it up on was not real level, but the camper was leaning back a little, and he told me that was ok, I think if I go back and hook up, and use more chain lenks, like from the 5 I was using to 6 then the camper tounge will be level, and this time I am going to take a level with me. Thanks for the advise and please I can use all i can get.
I used to tow a TT using a WDH and my understanding of how to set up a weight distribution hitch is to find some level ground and then measure the height from the ground to a spot on the front bumper as well as the back bumper of the tow vehicle without the trailer hooked up. Record the readings. Then hook up the trailer to the tow vehicle and recheck the heights at the bumpers...you want the change to be less than about 1". If the front of the tow vehicle goes higher than that or the back lower, you need to increase the weight distribution setting until the tow vehicle stays pretty much as it was without the trailer attached. This keeps the back end of the tow vehicle from squatting down and making the front tires feel like they are 'floating'.

As for the trailer being level, this is better accomplished by setting the trailer on level gound, leveling the trailer, and then adjusting the ball height on the tow vehicle to match the coupler height on the trailer...assuming that your ball height is adjustable.
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Old 03-23-2014, 10:13 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lefty59 View Post
I used to tow a TT using a WDH and my understanding of how to set up a weight distribution hitch is to find some level ground and then measure the height from the ground to a spot on the front bumper as well as the back bumper of the tow vehicle without the trailer hooked up. Record the readings. Then hook up the trailer to the tow vehicle and recheck the heights at the bumpers...you want the change to be less than about 1". If the front of the tow vehicle goes higher than that or the back lower, you need to increase the weight distribution setting until the tow vehicle stays pretty much as it was without the trailer attached. This keeps the back end of the tow vehicle from squatting down and making the front tires feel like they are 'floating'.
I know the manual on my 2006 F150 states to use the front bumper for measurements, but that can get all kinds of weird readings.......I tried that originally, and it was hard to figure out exactly what the truck was doing. I use the fenders to measure WDH setup now. I want the front fender back to the original measurement, or up to a 1/8" lower with the WDH hooked up. Surprisingly, the front bumper is within about 1/2" of the measurement without the trailer and WDH, but I know exactly how much the rear and front fenders settle without having to decipher what is going on with the front bumper.
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Old 03-23-2014, 10:18 AM   #10
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I know the manual on my 2006 F150 states to use the front bumper for measurements, but that can get all kinds of weird readings.......I tried that originally, and it was hard to figure out exactly what the truck was doing. I use the fenders to measure WDH setup now. I want the front fender back to the original measurement, or up to a 1/8" lower with the WDH hooked up. Surprisingly, the front bumper is within about 1/2" of the measurement without the trailer and WDH, but I know exactly how much the rear and front fenders settle without having to decipher what is going on with the front bumper.
I agree with the fender well measurements, but you can put a pc of tape on the front bumper and put a mark on it to get good measurements.

Fender with tape and a mark also works.
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Old 03-23-2014, 10:24 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by 09grizzly1 View Post
If the suburban sits higher off the ground than the pick up, the hitch head will have to be adjusted to different holes to accommodate the change in height. If the bars are set too tight, this may cause the back of the tow vehicle to bounce and may also take too much weight off of the rear tires which may cause some sway. From people I have talked to, the mudders have caused some sway. The camper should be as level as possible, but it doesn't need to be perfect. If you can't get the trailer perfectly level using the head adjustment and not having the bars too tight, then the nose of the trailer should be slightly lower-this will allow the trailer to track better and may reduce some sway. Hope this makes some sense.
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