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Old 10-02-2013, 08:00 AM   #11
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Double check your payload rating for your truck. This is specific to each truck and is on the yellow sticker on the driver door. Take that number and subtract the cargo in the bed of the truck, people, hitch weight of the trailer and the weight of your distribution set up. Make sure you are not over that amount. That is the critical issue you have to watch with 1/2 ton trucks.

Ford will say you can tow an 9000lb camper but the payload capacity is where you take a hit.

Most people say "assume that the loaded tongue weight will be around 10 - 15% of the GVWR, even if you don't load it to GVWR and form your decision around WD hitch, reciever, tow vehicle around that number."

Michael
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Old 10-02-2013, 08:38 AM   #12
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My crystal ball says something not good will happen in the future.


Have good insurance on everything........
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Old 10-02-2013, 08:53 AM   #13
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My crystal ball says something not good will happen in the future. Have good insurance on everything........
How does good insurance help? If you're over your ratings, the insurance company isn't going to pay.
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Old 10-02-2013, 09:11 AM   #14
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How does good insurance help? If you're over your ratings, the insurance company isn't going to pay.
I'm still trying to wrap my head around this statement and need to re-read that jeep guy's post a little more closely from last week. People do stupid and negligent things all of the time- heck, I'd bet that is the majority of accidents; yet insurance companies payout all of the time.

(This coming from a card-carrying member of the "stay within all ratings crowd".)

To the op, to that end- I think that solely looking at GCWR or even a vehicles advertised towing capacity is fairly shortsighted. Often times, you'll be over on other ratings - namely GVWR and possibly either of your axle ratings. Finally, don't forget to be cognizant of the tire's maximum carrying capacity as they are the weakest link in all of this.
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Old 10-02-2013, 09:18 AM   #15
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How does good insurance help? If you're over your ratings, the insurance company isn't going to pay.


I get dinged for being blunt.... but here goes.

The truck is right on the edge now (imo) and the op is crunching numbers to, in his mind, come in under the line. Being new, everything should work alright. in a few years everything will start wearing down and become less reliable.

Will the insurance company pay for the damage when it is rolled over on its' side from a heavy rain and the unit would not stop and pushed it into a jackknife and flip? The insurance company will not weigh it pound for pound, but cross it off as a total loss and go on (my wife works for an insurance company). I just hope that there is a high enough life insurance policy to cover all of those costs needed for that.
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Old 10-02-2013, 09:54 AM   #16
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I'm still trying to wrap my head around this statement and need to re-read that jeep guy's post a little more closely from last week. People do stupid and negligent things all of the time- heck, I'd bet that is the majority of accidents; yet insurance companies payout all of the time...
Doug, I think post 9 in this thread may be just as enlightening. 5th Wheel Towable With 1/2 Ton Truck. (Read posts 7, 9 & 13 for the full picture.) Jeep made some good points as well.
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Old 10-02-2013, 12:19 PM   #17
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Doug, I think post 9 in this thread may be just as enlightening. 5th Wheel Towable With 1/2 Ton Truck. (Read posts 7, 9 & 13 for the full picture.) Jeep made some good points as well.
You throw this out in every discussion regarding insurance issues but at not time does the "poster of unknown credentials" cite any case law or provide any proof.
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Old 10-02-2013, 12:26 PM   #18
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agree that using "dry" weights is one of the big mistakes for newbies.
most manufacturers don't include the weights of normal "options" in the "dry" weight number. things like: awning, oven, spare tire, microwave, a/c and so on...
When we toured the Flagstaff factory in Goshen in Aug, the very last thing done was weighting the trailer with all the factory options installed and the weight put on the stickers, so the weight on the sticker IS an actual weight. What the dealer adds on is of course not included such as filling the propane tanks and adding the battery(s). Awnings were installed at the factory and therefore were included in the posted weight.
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Old 10-02-2013, 12:37 PM   #19
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I'm looking at all the trailers out there and it's either the tongue weight is ridiculous and the weight is down or the tongue weight is low and the camper is high. I know it all depends on weight distribution but from everyone's comments it looks like you need a 2500 or 3500 to pull anything. Now people throw out life insurance policy's, really! You need to calm down! I did my calculations, I'm under everything I need to be. If the manufacturers put these ratings in black and white I'm sure that they did all their calculations right or they would be out business! Thanks for the input!
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Old 10-02-2013, 12:48 PM   #20
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When we toured the Flagstaff factory in Goshen in Aug, the very last thing done was weighting the trailer with all the factory options installed and the weight put on the stickers, so the weight on the sticker IS an actual weight. What the dealer adds on is of course not included such as filling the propane tanks and adding the battery(s). Awnings were installed at the factory and therefore were included in the posted weight.
OC - there's a big difference between the advertised "dry" weight and the actual yellow stickered weight. You and Dan are referring to 2 different things (him the former, you the latter).

Unfortunately, what is most commonly advertised is the "dry" weight which doesn't include options. And, of course- it's the only thing available on the manufacturer's web site as each unit is different.
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