Towing Questions and Limits

[MTA F-150]

First timer, just wanted to get everyone's input on towing this TT (2014 Shasta Revere 30BH). I just bought a Revere30BH (not picking up for another 2 weeks). The weight on it is about 7045lbs, hitch weight is 620. I have an 05 F-150 super-cab 4x4 lariat that i am going to pull it with. I also installed air bags in the back. I was fine with it at first and now i am reading too many posts that say it may be too much. Just wondering if anyone could steer me in the right direction.

Will i be OK pulling this trailer with my truck? It says its rated for about 8800 but with loading it up with supplies i might be pushing it.

Should i get the weight distribution bars and stabilizer bars from the dealer?

[Flying dutchman]

A good quality weight distribution hitch is HIGHLY recommended and do not forget about sway control. This will make towing a lot easier.
Just my 2c.

[BarryD0706]

Read this:
http://learntorv.blogspot.com/p/what-can-i-tow.html

You have to know your weights.

[Acableguy06]

IMO. That is a lot of trailer for your truck. I think you will find you may not be too happy with it. You will need a very good weight distribution and sway control at the very least. I would reconsider the purchase and maybe find something smaller if you could, or upgrade the truck.

[love2rvcamp]

The weights you posted are dry weights:

•Dry Hitch Weight - 620 Lbs

•Unloaded Vehicle Weight - 7,045 Lbs

I could not find the GVW numbers but figure adding 1000 - 1500lbs of stuff. You might not think you all add that much but you will. Then you factor in the hitch weight loaded and you might be over your limits. That is going to be a lot of camper for a F150. Look at the yellow sticker on the drivers door that says cargo should not exceed XXXXX. This is the total cargo. This number includes people, stuff in the bed and the hitch should not be over that amount.

Dont be overly concerned with the 8800lbs pay closer attention to the cargo capacity and the GVWR.

We towed our Rockwood with a GVW around 7700 with a F150 and it struggled on hills and could not get over 55mph. I knew it was back there all the time and had many white knuckle moments. We have now upgraded to a F250 and it is so much better at towing.

I don't think you are going to enjoy towing that trailer with the F150. I would look for a smaller trailer that the GVW is 7500 or below if you are going to stay with the F150.

[bikendan]

agree that using "dry" weights is one of the big mistakes for newbies.
most manufacturers don't include the weights of normal "options" in the "dry" weight number. things like: awning, oven, spare tire, microwave, a/c and so on.

Shasta's specs are confusing in that they show a UVW and then a "Ship" weight.

i can guarantee that the weights of any of the listed options on the website, are not included in that 7045 number.
so, loaded for camping, you could easily be over 8000lbs., which is a lot for a 1/2 ton pickup, unless it's an Ecobeast.
it would help if you posted the truck's specs, engine size, cab size, bed size, rear end ratio.

[5thwheel]

I have an F-150. I was going to buy a TT about the same size as the one you're going to buy MTAF-150. He told me that I wouldn't like pulling it. He recommended that I change to a 5th wheel. I did and my F-150 pulls a Flagstaff 28' RKWS fine. The dealer did not make more money by getting me to change to the 5th wheel. I'm glad I did, I like the floor plan and space in the 5th wheel.

[Twisty]

I also have an F150.
Because of the specs on my truck I would never consider pulling a 5th wheel with it.
Ignore the blanket statements about towing and pulling.
You have to use all of the numbers to know if the combo you are looking at is even feasible to drive with.
If the payload rating for your truck is 1320 lbs and the pin weight for a fifth wheel you bought is 1280 lbs you have enough capacity to have a 40 pound driver in the truck. Is that possible?
Now load the truck and fiver and hit the road. Check the weights on a scale.
Are you comfortable rolling down the road at 65 mph when the truck is at 100% of capacity?
I ordered an F350 after just one year of towing a 30 foot, 6200 lb TT.

[MTA F-150]

Thank you everyone. I have trailed a lot with this truck from bobcats to smaller campers on the beach. I did my home work last night and crunched the numbers. One good thing is my axle ratio is 3.73 and for my wheel base 145" Ford clocks me in at a maximum trailer weight of 9300#. The base weight of the truck (5500#) plus added people (250) plus supplies (150#) plus tounge weight (710#added 100# with cargo) = 6610 GVW. The camper plus 1000# of cargo, which i calculated my cargo at less than that equals 7100#. 6610# plus 7100# is 13,710#. Max GCWR for this truck is 15,000#. I am not going accross country nor am i driving in the Rockies. I could totally understand big mountain driving and having an issue. My normal trips are Long Island and Upstate NY. Upstate is hilly not mountainous.

[MTA F-150]

I miscalculated there. The trailer plus the 1000# is 8,050 plus the 6,610 equals 14,660#. I know i am on the edge of the max but ill keep a tally of all the cargo. I'm sure ill be upgrading some time in the near future.

[love2rvcamp]

Double check your payload rating for your truck. This is specific to each truck and is on the yellow sticker on the driver door. Take that number and subtract the cargo in the bed of the truck, people, hitch weight of the trailer and the weight of your distribution set up. Make sure you are not over that amount. That is the critical issue you have to watch with 1/2 ton trucks.

Ford will say you can tow an 9000lb camper but the payload capacity is where you take a hit.

Most people say "assume that the loaded tongue weight will be around 10 - 15% of the GVWR, even if you don't load it to GVWR and form your decision around WD hitch, reciever, tow vehicle around that number."

Michael

[Brother Les]

My crystal ball says something not good will happen in the future.


Have good insurance on everything........

[BarryD0706]

Originally Posted by Brother Les

My crystal ball says something not good will happen in the future. Have good insurance on everything........

How does good insurance help? If you're over your ratings, the insurance company isn't going to pay.

[ependydad]

Originally Posted by BarryD0706

How does good insurance help? If you're over your ratings, the insurance company isn't going to pay.

I'm still trying to wrap my head around this statement and need to re-read that jeep guy's post a little more closely from last week. People do stupid and negligent things all of the time- heck, I'd bet that is the majority of accidents; yet insurance companies payout all of the time.

(This coming from a card-carrying member of the "stay within all ratings crowd".)

To the op, to that end- I think that solely looking at GCWR or even a vehicles advertised towing capacity is fairly shortsighted. Often times, you'll be over on other ratings - namely GVWR and possibly either of your axle ratings. Finally, don't forget to be cognizant of the tire's maximum carrying capacity as they are the weakest link in all of this.

[Brother Les]

Originally Posted by BarryD0706

How does good insurance help? If you're over your ratings, the insurance company isn't going to pay.

I get dinged for being blunt.... but here goes.

The truck is right on the edge now (imo) and the op is crunching numbers to, in his mind, come in under the line. Being new, everything should work alright. in a few years everything will start wearing down and become less reliable.

Will the insurance company pay for the damage when it is rolled over on its' side from a heavy rain and the unit would not stop and pushed it into a jackknife and flip? The insurance company will not weigh it pound for pound, but cross it off as a total loss and go on (my wife works for an insurance company). I just hope that there is a high enough life insurance policy to cover all of those costs needed for that.

[BarryD0706]

Originally Posted by ependydad

I'm still trying to wrap my head around this statement and need to re-read that jeep guy's post a little more closely from last week. People do stupid and negligent things all of the time- heck, I'd bet that is the majority of accidents; yet insurance companies payout all of the time...

Doug, I think post 9 in this thread may be just as enlightening. http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...uck-47063.html. (Read posts 7, 9 & 13 for the full picture.) Jeep made some good points as well.

[tanddc]

Originally Posted by BarryD0706

Doug, I think post 9 in this thread may be just as enlightening. http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...uck-47063.html. (Read posts 7, 9 & 13 for the full picture.) Jeep made some good points as well.

You throw this out in every discussion regarding insurance issues but at not time does the "poster of unknown credentials" cite any case law or provide any proof.

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by bikendan

agree that using "dry" weights is one of the big mistakes for newbies.
most manufacturers don't include the weights of normal "options" in the "dry" weight number. things like: awning, oven, spare tire, microwave, a/c and so on...

When we toured the Flagstaff factory in Goshen in Aug, the very last thing done was weighting the trailer with all the factory options installed and the weight put on the stickers, so the weight on the sticker IS an actual weight. What the dealer adds on is of course not included such as filling the propane tanks and adding the battery(s). Awnings were installed at the factory and therefore were included in the posted weight.

[MTA F-150]

I'm looking at all the trailers out there and it's either the tongue weight is ridiculous and the weight is down or the tongue weight is low and the camper is high. I know it all depends on weight distribution but from everyone's comments it looks like you need a 2500 or 3500 to pull anything. Now people throw out life insurance policy's, really! You need to calm down! I did my calculations, I'm under everything I need to be. If the manufacturers put these ratings in black and white I'm sure that they did all their calculations right or they would be out business! Thanks for the input!

[ependydad]

Originally Posted by OldCoot

When we toured the Flagstaff factory in Goshen in Aug, the very last thing done was weighting the trailer with all the factory options installed and the weight put on the stickers, so the weight on the sticker IS an actual weight. What the dealer adds on is of course not included such as filling the propane tanks and adding the battery(s). Awnings were installed at the factory and therefore were included in the posted weight.

OC - there's a big difference between the advertised "dry" weight and the actual yellow stickered weight. You and Dan are referring to 2 different things (him the former, you the latter).

Unfortunately, what is most commonly advertised is the "dry" weight which doesn't include options. And, of course- it's the only thing available on the manufacturer's web site as each unit is different.