Towing with a 3.6 liter Jeep

[DieselDrax]

Originally Posted by bikendan

it appears that you have rear squat and high front bumper.



if you have a WDH, it needs adjustment.

if you don't, then you need a WDH.

Originally Posted by Cooknavy

[attach]works just fine

I see WDH bars in the pic, but that trailer has a GVWR of almost 4,100LB and a claimed dry weight of over 3,100LB and a dry hitch weight of 376LB. That Jeep has a max tow of 3,500LB, max tongue weight of 350LB, and max payload if 1,000 LB.

WDH adjustment will only do so much, that Jeep is overweight and clearly isn’t working “just fine.”

[KyDan]

Originally Posted by Cooknavy

Yes I do. Still getting camper set up with all the necessities. Only camped a few times, and the wife is still setting up house. Before the start of next season I’ll make some needed adjustments.

Try one more link on the chain for starters.
If you go too far you can make the rear wheels light and that can cause a jackknife.
The way it sits your headlights are shining in the air and not on the road.

[Jon18TO]

It seems we may have lost the OP, but they previously had a Durango and also asked about a Durango, and specifically noted their 4500 lb trailer.

So no Wrangler is rated to safely tow their trailer. They are probably interested in towing experiences with the more appropriately rated Jeep Grand Cherokee if anyone can speak to that. My experience is only with our Durango that has an extra 10 inches of wheelbase.

[Big-Foot]

To the Original Poster - should he return..... It can be a conundrum..
So the thread is titled

Towing with a 3.6 liter Jeep

...
The engine is the same that powers the Ram 1500 pickup and previous years (I don’t know about current year) was rated to tow up to 8,000#.
The 5 speed automatic is made by Mercedes (W5A580) also known as NAG1. The transmission was built for heavy duty operation and has seen use in 600hp applications such as MB’s AMG Performance cars and SUVs as well as some of the recent Dodge SRT vehicles.
In Europe the Jeep Wrangler Unlimited is rated to tow over 7,000#
Jeep Wrangler - Towing Capacity & Weight Limit Information
As long as the trailer has brakes.
There are a lot of us that wonder why the Wrangler Unlimited (4 door) is only rated in the USA/Canada for 3500# (with no regard to weight distribution hitch or trailer brakes) and the identical truck elsewhere is just fine to more that twice that rate.

We just got done with an 8 day 2800 mile trip which included a number of mountain grades of 7 and 8 percent. Some areas were being inundated with rain and crosswinds. Some areas were getting 25 mph headwinds which held our speed down - only to try and preserve some fuel economy over 10 mpg.
Tires aired on Jeep and trailer to max sidewall pressure and in excellent condition. I installed Air-Lift Air Bags and ran 30 PSI in them.
Our 4 point weight distribution hitch is called “Equal-i-zer” and it controlled sway beautifully as well as kept our Jeep under control.
Our Jeep with trailer loaded and Jeep loaded made the trip just fine.
We tow between 55 and 65 mph. Fuel economy was 10 to 14 mpg - generally using 92 octane fuel but 87 was sometimes all that was available.
We never - at any time - felt unsafe or that the trailer was more than the Jeep or I could manage.

If you sign onto the Wrangler Forum and search for towing, you will find plenty of us that share this information you are looking for.
Www.wranglerforum.com

While I’m not someone that goes breaking all the rules, I am confounded by the dramatic variance in specs between the Domestic destination Jeeps and Exports.
Personally, I am convinced that it is one of those things that is caught up in the Liberal-Nanny part of our government...
Yes, we have some safety cops there like all forums do - but - they mean well... I think.

((Note - the picture below shows nose high in the Jeep only because I had leveled out the trailer for that night in one of many State Parks we camped in))

[DieselDrax]

Originally Posted by Big-Foot

The engine is the same that powers the Ram 1500 pickup and previous years (I don’t know about current year) was rated to tow up to 8,000#.

Irrelevant.

The 5 speed automatic is made by Mercedes (W5A580) also known as NAG1. The transmission was built for heavy duty operation and has seen use in 600hp applications such as MB’s AMG Performance cars and SUVs as well as some of the recent Dodge SRT vehicles.

Irrelevant.

In Europe the Jeep Wrangler Unlimited is rated to tow over 7,000#
Jeep Wrangler - Towing Capacity & Weight Limit Information
As long as the trailer has brakes.

Irrelevant in the US. Different standards, different regulations, etc.

There are a lot of us that wonder why the Wrangler Unlimited (4 door) is only rated in the USA/Canada for 3500# (with no regard to weight distribution hitch or trailer brakes) and the identical truck elsewhere is just fine to more that twice that rate.

For one, the factory and most aftermarket hitches for the JK and JL are Class II hitches which have max tow ratings of 3,500LB and max tongue weights of 350LB. Even though they have a 2" receiver they are not a Class III hitch.

For two, Wranglers are not the most stable vehicles, even the Unlimited model (I've owned 2 Wranglers <YJ, JKUR>, 2 CJs <CJ-2A, CJ-7>, 2 XJs, and a WK). The WK, even though it has a slightly shorter wheelbase than the JKU, has a higher tow rating and is more stable when towing than the JKU.

We just got done with an 8 day 2800 mile trip which included a number of mountain grades of 7 and 8 percent. Some areas were being inundated with rain and crosswinds. Some areas were getting 25 mph headwinds which held our speed down - only to try and preserve some fuel economy over 10 mpg.
Tires aired on Jeep and trailer to max sidewall pressure and in excellent condition. I installed Air-Lift Air Bags and ran 30 PSI in them.
Our 4 point weight distribution hitch is called “Equal-i-zer” and it controlled sway beautifully as well as kept our Jeep under control.

Did you install a proper Class III receiver hitch or are you still using the Class II receiver that has 4 bolts that mount it to the factory crossmember?

Our Jeep with trailer loaded and Jeep loaded made the trip just fine.
We tow between 55 and 65 mph. Fuel economy was 10 to 14 mpg - generally using 92 octane fuel but 87 was sometimes all that was available.
We never - at any time - felt unsafe or that the trailer was more than the Jeep or I could manage.

If you sign onto the Wrangler Forum and search for towing, you will find plenty of us that share this information you are looking for.
Www.wranglerforum.com

While I’m not someone that goes breaking all the rules, I am confounded by the dramatic variance in specs between the Domestic destination Jeeps and Exports.
Personally, I am convinced that it is one of those things that is caught up in the Liberal-Nanny part of our government...
Yes, we have some safety cops there like all forums do - but - they mean well... I think.

It sounds like you're confounded yet rather than try and understand why there's a difference you choose to assume the higher tow rating is the better or more realistic one and are choosing to follow it blindly. You blame the lower tow rating on the "liberal nanny" part of our government as if that is a valid reason to ignore the limits. You added air bags...and a WDH...for a trailer that has a GVWR barely more than 3,500LB. Seems like an awful lot of hardware for such a small trailer.

Your vehicles and you'll the one that has to live with the consequences if something goes south, but choosing to ignore what US-spec vehicles are rated for and use foreign ratings instead is just foolish.

My truck is rated for 2,220LB to 2,392LB of payload capacity in Australia. Should I ignore the ratings on the certification sticker and go with those Australian capacities instead, without knowing how or why they determined that capacity? Man, that would sure make life a lot easier if I did that.

((Note - the picture below shows nose high in the Jeep only because I had leveled out the trailer for that night in one of many State Parks we camped in))

Why are you using stabilizers to level the trailer while it's still hitched to the Jeep?! Good grief, so much wrong with that.

Good luck and safe travels.

[Big-Foot]

Originally Posted by DieselDrax

Irrelevant.



Irrelevant.



Irrelevant in the US. Different standards, different regulations, etc.



For one, the factory and most aftermarket hitches for the JK and JL are Class II hitches which have max tow ratings of 3,500LB and max tongue weights of 350LB. Even though they have a 2" receiver they are not a Class III hitch.

For two, Wranglers are not the most stable vehicles, even the Unlimited model (I've owned 2 Wranglers <YJ, JKUR>, 2 CJs <CJ-2A, CJ-7>, 2 XJs, and a WK). The WK, even though it has a slightly shorter wheelbase than the JKU, has a higher tow rating and is more stable when towing than the JKU.



Did you install a proper Class III receiver hitch or are you still using the Class II receiver that has 4 bolts that mount it to the factory crossmember?



It sounds like you're confounded yet rather than try and understand why there's a difference you choose to assume the higher tow rating is the better or more realistic one and are choosing to follow it blindly. You blame the lower tow rating on the "liberal nanny" part of our government as if that is a valid reason to ignore the limits. You added air bags...and a WDH...for a trailer that has a GVWR barely more than 3,500LB. Seems like an awful lot of hardware for such a small trailer.

Your vehicles and you'll the one that has to live with the consequences if something goes south, but choosing to ignore what US-spec vehicles are rated for and use foreign ratings instead is just foolish.

My truck is rated for 2,220LB to 2,392LB of payload capacity in Australia. Should I ignore the ratings on the certification sticker and go with those Australian capacities instead, without knowing how or why they determined that capacity? Man, that would sure make life a lot easier if I did that.



Why are you using stabilizers to level the trailer while it's still hitched to the Jeep?! Good grief, so much wrong with that.

Good luck and safe travels.

Thanks for your opinions Officer... They are almost worth what I paid for them - but I’ll consider myself suitably enriched and leave it at that...

[MarkDNC]

Here's my 2 cents from someone who actually has a Jeep Grand Cherokee and tows with it.

Mine is a newer (2018) 3.6 with the 8 speed transmission.
My trailer is a 22.5' that has been weighed several times and is usually around 4725 loaded.

Just my wife and 2 dogs so we are okay on payload.

The tongue weight is the issue for the JGC as it's only 620 lbs for the 3.6.
Mine is 595. So it's close but wish it was less.

I have a Centerline TS WDH and brake controller. No sway.

It tows okay and we went through hills bringing it back from Ohio to NC.

The biggest issue with the Jeep is the mirrors. You do not see down the side of the trailer very well so changing lanes is not comfortable.
A rear camera is a must. It changed the whole driving experience.

I don't want a truck or a bigger trailer for now. So this set up works.
But I feel that I'm near my max on the trailer size and weight.

I shopped for a trailer that the Jeep could tow, but still wanted a double axle trailer. The 171rbxl has a GTWR of 7570 lbs. It came weighing 4120 and we don't add a lot of stuff to keep the weight down.
The axle rating and Load range D tires are a good peace of mind feeling.

[Jon18TO]

Originally Posted by MarkDNC

The biggest issue with the Jeep is the mirrors. You do not see down the side of the trailer very well so changing lanes is not comfortable.
A rear camera is a must. It changed the whole driving experience.

We use use a rear camera on our trailer too since there were no perfect solutions to extend the Durango mirrors.

It may be because we have a single axle, but we're at 600-610 lb, pushing up against the tongue weight limit too. Every time the 8 speed drops to 4th to pull a hill, I'm glad we didn't go with a bigger trailer, even though it's rated for it.

[DieselDrax]

Originally Posted by MarkDNC

The biggest issue with the Jeep is the mirrors. You do not see down the side of the trailer very well so changing lanes is not comfortable.
A rear camera is a must. It changed the whole driving experience.

There are multiple clip-on and suction mount tow mirrors that you can use with your Jeep that will definitely help with the side mirror situation.

I used these before installing proper tow mirrors on my truck and they helped a lot but I wanted something a bit wider and that didn't involve clipping on and removing, etc.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b...n+mirror&pos=1

There are also these, though I think they look a bit out of place on the Jeep.

https://clearviewmirrorsusa.com/towi...rand-cherokee/

[Jon18TO]

Thanks for the options. I had seen the first style but not the Clearview ones. Still, even the best options can't show you directly behind the trailer like a camera.

Like you said, the Clearview ones might be a little much on an SUV. I'm not sure my wife would go for those.

[Wicked Ace]

Originally Posted by perrogie

Hi all. We recently are in need of a newer TV as our 2006 Durango (4.7 litre engine) was a write off in an accident. Do any of you tow a 4500 lb Shamrock with the newer Jeep or Durango with the 3.6? The dealers are all saying it will tow 6200 lbs but I drove one with a 5 speed and I don't think it will perform as well as our Durango (which had trouble uphill if there was any wind). The Shamrock has a 3" lift because some of the places we go need the clearance so it catches a little more wind than standard. Does the 8 or 9 speed (which ever it is) work better? Any and all comments welcome. Thanks.
Brian and Judy

For the last two years I have been using my 2014 Grand Cherokee Summit with 5.7L HEMI to tow my Flagstaff 26wkfs. The 8 speed trans is a dream, very smooth! In fact I thought all Jeep and Dodges were using it from 2014 on.
I also have Qudra-Trac II and air ride suspension which helps with stability. I'm close to the limits with a 6800# trailer weight and a 700# tongue weight. Your TT is considerably lighter. My opinion is if you intend to travel relatively flat roadways the 3.6 will be OK, but only OK. If you have a choice the 5.7L is a better way. You shouldn't need full time 4WD or air ride. I'm not sure you are aware but the recent vintage Grand Cherokee and Durango are only different in body work and trim. I recall looking not long ago and noticed the tow weights had been derated on later model years. Most importantly pay attention to the payload of the vehicle, what is on the yellow sticker inside the driver's door. Understand the interaction with what you are towing. Ask the salesman what the rated tongue weight is and demand to see it listed in a tow chart not just his word.

[rjheiss]

I have towed a 29' SuperLite TT over 30K using the 3.6L V6 in a Jeep GC. The 8 speed transmission really makes it tow very well. I can maintain 65-70 mph fairly easily, hill climbing slows down to 55-60 mph if it's a steep one.

[rjheiss]

I left out that the TT is listed at 5600 lbs dry weight.

[dfazzini]

Originally Posted by perrogie

Hi all. We recently are in need of a newer TV as our 2006 Durango (4.7 litre engine) was a write off in an accident. Do any of you tow a 4500 lb Shamrock with the newer Jeep or Durango with the 3.6? The dealers are all saying it will tow 6200 lbs but I drove one with a 5 speed and I don't think it will perform as well as our Durango (which had trouble uphill if there was any wind). The Shamrock has a 3" lift because some of the places we go need the clearance so it catches a little more wind than standard. Does the 8 or 9 speed (which ever it is) work better? Any and all comments welcome. Thanks.
Brian and Judy

Jeep as in vehicle or Jeep brand something? If you are talking about a JLU or JKU Wrangler 4 door, likely to much. With the tranny cooler and the lower gear ratio it is spec'd at 3500#.

I pull a 1970ESP which loaded is around 2600# on my JKU with the higher ratio and airbags in the coil class III with brake controller and stock tire size. It does "ok", going up long hills sort of sucks, especially after putting on the radiator screen which restricts some air flow.

[Bhugo]

Grand Cherokee or Durango can be set up to tow a decent amount but definitely not a great tv only adequate. Wranglers ......no way I would. I might tow a wrangler for trail fun behind a truck.... Move up to a Tahoe or pickup for a better tv.

[cromhouse]

We towed a 4000# (empty weight) 21' minilite for a few years with a Grand Cherokee V6. The Jeep did ok towing from OH to Newfoundland, the Outer Banks and FL a few times) even though it spent a lot of time in lower gears. We upgraded to the Jeep V8 (when the V6 got wrecked) and found a more comfortable towing experience. I think you 'll be ok until tow vehicle trade time.

[WolfPup2018]

Originally Posted by Big-Foot

2015 Jeep JK Unlimited with 5 spd Automatic and 3.73 gears towing an -ahem- 3500# (loaded) RPod.
I bought a SuperChips Trail Dash 2 not so much as to get more power (it did give a marginal increase) but to get a towing tune which would manage the shift points of the transmission better.
We have done a couple thousand miles so far and some limited mountain running.
It does an -okay- job. Roughly 12 mpg on 92 octane fuel. 60-65 mph.
More items of interest -
Equalizer weight distribution hitch, an extended hitch shank from etrailer to get the hitch ball out from under the spare tire. Hopkins Remote trailer brake controller. AirLift air bags really help the squat.
Note, I did not have but 5 psi in the air bags when this pic was taken. 30 psi works pretty good to keep it level without putting undue pressure on the hitch via the weight distribution bars.
—
Is it a good tow vehicle?
Not exceptional, but adequate..

You said you use a WD hitch, in the picture looks like you have too much sag and the front end is in the air. You may want to consider moving the adjustment bars on the trailer up (higher up) and check stock height of the hitch on the TV. Looks like you need to shift more weight towards the front axle which will level out your Jeep. Increasing the height of the stabilizer bar supports, any if needed lowering the ball hitch will push more weight fwd

I had the same problem on my 2018 V6, 4.0L 4Runner. Towing WOLFPUP 16BHS, dryweight 3200, loaded i’d Say around 3700.

This weekend I’m taking the trailer out for a test run !! First camping of the season , probably the last too lol.

As far as towing me personally am considering a truck next year, the 4Runner loaded up with gear and 3 kids in the back probably won’t work.

Durango, 4Runner, Jeep etc all in the same class power wise, unless you get a Taho staying in the SUV category. The load tow rating may be 6k, or 5K, but consider weigh and length of TV. I was told 4K is the limit on my 4Runner, and that’s probably pushing it. Sure I can drag it, but safely and in control and facing unexpected variables along the way? I’d feel better in a longer TV like a truck.

[Alben]

I tow an A-frame with 1950# dry, 2760# fully loaded with water and all our gear. 300# tongue weight. Tow vehicle is a 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee Summit V6. Tows like a dream and stays in 8th gear (top gear) when on level terrain at 62mph and gets 19-20mpg while towing. Of course the big advantage is that A-frames are low profile so the wind resistance is way less than a full height travel trailer.

I am all about safety and noticed that at 65mph the trailer can begin to feel a bit squirrely. The trailer and the Grand Cherokee are perfectly level. No squat on the Grand Cherokee because the Summit trim level includes factory tow and a fully automatic air leveling system. I put the weight of the trailer on the tongue, and the Grand Cherokee levels out automatically.

Would a WDH and anti-sway bar be of any benefit in my situation? Anti-sway, probably. But what about the WDH? If the rig is perfectly level, would a WDH be of any benefit? Would adding more weight to the front axle of the Grand Cherokee make it handle even better? Or is this not recommended since I have the factory auto leveling system? Does anyone here have reliable knowledge of these factory auto leveling systems and know what the results are when using a WDH?

[WolfPup2018]

Originally Posted by Alben

I tow an A-frame with 1950# dry, 2760# fully loaded with water and all our gear. 300# tongue weight. Tow vehicle is a 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee Summit V6. Tows like a dream and stays in 8th gear (top gear) when on level terrain at 62mph and gets 19-20mpg while towing. Of course the big advantage is that A-frames are low profile so the wind resistance is way less than a full height travel trailer.

I am all about safety and noticed that at 65mph the trailer can begin to feel a bit squirrely. The trailer and the Grand Cherokee are perfectly level. No squat on the Grand Cherokee because the Summit trim level includes factory tow and a fully automatic air leveling system. I put the weight of the trailer on the tongue, and the Grand Cherokee levels out automatically.

Would a WDH and anti-sway bar be of any benefit in my situation? Anti-sway, probably. But what about the WDH? If the rig is perfectly level, would a WDH be of any benefit? Would adding more weight to the front axle of the Grand Cherokee make it handle even better? Or is this not recommended since I have the factory auto leveling system? Does anyone here have reliable knowledge of these factory auto leveling systems and know what the results are when using a WDH?

http://www.wk2jeeps.com/wk2_quadralift

My guess is the auto leveling has nothing to do with shifting weight forward or back. This system is no different than an air bag really. It’s pure physics, even if the body is level the weight is/could be largely in the rear. Haven’t towed enough to know the difference but I’d say if it ain’t broke then...

All things considered it could improve driveibiliyy

[BlainoMac]

I tow a 2019 Falgstaff Epro 17RK with a 2015 JKU Rubicon. Trailer is pushing the Jeep’s 3500lb tow rating limit (fully loaded), but I have 4.88 gears and a WDH. The suspension is currently Rubicon Express and is a little too “squishy” for my taste, so I’ll be stiffening it up with the Teraflex in the coming months. I’ve driven Jeeps with all kinds of suspensions, and I like the Teraflex better.

Seems to tow just fine, although after reading this thread I will be looking into the towing flash pack to get the shifting reconfigured for a smoother experience. On level ground (southeast Texas) I can keep it in 5th most of the time at 65mph.

The engine/drivetrain itself can technically tow more, but it’s a Wrangler, so I won’t be pushing the limit any further than 3500.

The WDH keeps the vehicle level (less than 1” sag on the rear) which is a must in my opinion. Watch some “camper towing fail “ videos on a YouTube and you’ll want a WDH.