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Old 04-20-2019, 07:23 AM   #1
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Towing with Chevy Traverse!

We purchased a 2012 23í Wildwood X-Lite last fall & pulled it home with our Chevy Traverse after installing a hitch. Our Traverse does not have a tow package. The only thing that concerned me was the temperature gauge, that usually runs at 210 degrees, was running a notch above that. Would a cooler thermostat remedy this? Also, do I need to have a transmission cooler installed? Also, is it necessary to use an anti-sway bar or weight distribution chains while towing?
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Old 04-20-2019, 07:35 AM   #2
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Towing

What year is your Traverse? We tow our 18 Foot Wildwood with a 2013 Enclave which is rated at 4600 pounds capacity. Our trailer weighs 3000 pounds. Our Enclave has a Tow mode button on the dash. You need to find out what you Traverse is rated for or you could have trouble down the road. Good luck.

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Old 04-20-2019, 08:22 AM   #3
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You need to understand what the TRaverse towing package had to respond what (if any) is needed for your SUV from the engine/cooling stand point.
I would go to a dealer and try to get a list or a copy of the schematics so if it says that the towing package adds a transmission coolling or a different termostat, I'll do those changes.
If that temp. you mention the engine temp or the transmission temp.?
The transmission temp on my truck runs around 195F when I'm towing.
In my opinion both a weight distribution hitch and a sway control are a must.

I use the Curt round bar system with is simple and cheap and recommend it.
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Old 04-20-2019, 08:28 AM   #4
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IMO, that's too much trailer for your Traverse.
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Old 04-20-2019, 08:38 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by PapaBill View Post
[...] Our trailer weighs 3000 pounds. [...]
Correction. Your trailer weighed 3000 pounds. That's not what it weighs as you tow it. (Note: you should correct your signature to reflect the actual name of your trailer.)

You're probably still OK, I just don't want you (and others) to fall into the "Dry Weight" trap.

Good luck.
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Old 04-20-2019, 08:42 AM   #6
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Installing a lower rated thermostat will not help you run cooler if you are overheating. It just let's the cooler water reach your engine before it reaches operating temperature, which is not good.
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Old 04-20-2019, 08:49 AM   #7
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The 7-Pin Wiring

For me, the most difficult part of adding a tow bar to the Traverse (I think it was a 2014 model) with dual exhaust was wiring it for the 7-pin connection. It was a while ago, so I canít remember what the electronics conversion kit was called, but it had to be wired from the front fuse panel and some sort of box, filled with electronics had to be installed and stashed-away inside of a tight space inside of the trunk area behind the driverís side brake lights. I really canít remember the purpose of all of this, but it was a PITA to install. Maybe things are different now. The tow bar installation wasn't a breeze, either ó mainly due to the dual exhaust ó I had to remove and replace a lot of stuff to get the bar installed which, if I had a single exhaust, wouldnít have needed to be done.

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Old 04-20-2019, 10:34 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by CedarCreekWoody View Post
Installing a lower rated thermostat will not help you run cooler if you are overheating. It just let's the cooler water reach your engine before it reaches operating temperature, which is not good.
Exactly! If it were me, I would add a trans cooler and you definitely need a WDH. It is an awfully big trailer for a Traverse, and you need to do whatever you can to help it.

Also, if you donít have a tow/haul button, lock out the top gear when towing.
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Old 04-20-2019, 10:45 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolfman44 View Post
We purchased a 2012 23í Wildwood X-Lite last fall & pulled it home with our Chevy Traverse after installing a hitch. Our Traverse does not have a tow package. The only thing that concerned me was the temperature gauge, that usually runs at 210 degrees, was running a notch above that. Would a cooler thermostat remedy this? Also, do I need to have a transmission cooler installed? Also, is it necessary to use an anti-sway bar or weight distribution chains while towing?
I'm sorry but what you did, is so wrong in so many ways.
First, you illegally towed a trailer with electric brakes because you had no brake controller.
Second, I'm sure that the tongue weight exceeded the regular ball weight because you didn't have a WDH.
Third, did you have a battery on the trailer, to power the emergency breakaway switch?
I believe that the max tow capacity of the Traverse is 5200lbs IF it has the complete factory tow package.
Just adding a hitch receiver isn't enough. You have to duplicate the factory tow package completely.
I suggest you start by reading the car's owners manual's Towing section.
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Old 04-20-2019, 01:03 PM   #10
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Conversion

Quote:
Originally Posted by nomad297 View Post
For me, the most difficult part of adding a tow bar to the Traverse (I think it was a 2014 model) with dual exhaust was wiring it for the 7-pin connection. It was a while ago, so I canít remember what the electronics conversion kit was called, but it had to be wired from the front fuse panel and some sort of box, filled with electronics had to be installed and stashed-away inside of a tight space inside of the trunk area behind the driverís side brake lights. I really canít remember the purpose of all of this, but it was a PITA to install. Maybe things are different now. The tow bar installation wasn't a breeze, either ó mainly due to the dual exhaust ó I had to remove and replace a lot of stuff to get the bar installed which, if I had a single exhaust, wouldnít have needed to be done.

Bruce
Bruce, adding a 4-pin or 7-pin connector is much more difficult than it was a decade ago. The former scheme simply applied 12v DC (or not) to:
  1. Running lights
  2. All three brake lights
  3. Left turn signal
  4. Right turn signal
Now, LEDs are used. They could be driven by 12v, 5v, another voltage, or a current-limited source. (The plumbing analogy to the latter is a source with lots of pressure and a flow-rate limiter.)

Another tricky thing is that they now often use the same light sources as running lights and stop (brake) lights. When only the running lights are in operation, they are driven with a 33 or 50% duty cycle (on only a fraction of the time), at a frequency high enough that your eye cannot detect the pulsing.

When the brake lights are also engaged, they switch to a 100% duty cycle and LEDs are correspondingly brighter. The converter box converts this pulsing scheme to 12v on-off signals for the running lights, brake lights, and turn signals.

Yet another scheme that is sometimes used is called CAN (Controller Area Network). In this case, the entire vehicle is networked (CAN Bus) and a body computer sends signals over the (wired) network to each light's tiny computer saying "Turn On", "Turn Off", "Begin Flash", or "End Flash". (These are the same systems that will notify you on the dash that a lamp has failed, reporting the failure over the CAN Bus.) For this case, the converter box contains the tiny computer and receives the signals from the CAN bus and converts them to the old four-wire or seven-wire scheme.

Probably more than you wanted to know.

Larry
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