Towing with Ram 1500 crew cab

[Kaadk]

Originally Posted by TaWiMa

Start with a WDH. If course, there will be a lot of opinions on which one. I use the Equalizer system and love it. But they are big $$$.

I have never used a chain system but was told that the chains need to be disconnected while backing up. Those with experience can weigh in on that.

If you're still having bounce after WD is added, you have many options and, again, many opinions.

In my old Silverado 1500, I used a slightly stiffer shock from Gabriel.

Originally Posted by My17Ram

I also use the4point Equalizer towing my 233s with my 2017 Ram and it works great. I wouldn’t say the 500 or so is “big $$$”.
Lots of comments about disconnecting chains, friction sway bars etc. when backing that are no doubt confusing those new to the equipment. NO NEED to disconnect unless your backing creates a more extreme angle than your rig would see when turning sharply in the forward direction.
I installed Bilstein 4600s onmy truck and Tuftruck 1223v progressive coils to stiffen it up a bit. They work great.

Sidetrack here, but generally it's not the chains that need to be disconnected. You leave those engaged, as they're the Weight Distributing part of the hitch. It's the Anti-Sway friction bars that limit turning radius that you want to remove if you're going to be turning tighter than their minimum travel. Which, most of the times I've backed into sites where I have to turn, as been the case. On my TT, with the anti-sway bars engaged, my turning radius is only 30 degrees or so. Removing the bars I can get closer to 60 degrees, and 75 sometimes if I really jackknife it.

[rsdata]

I have never used a chain system but was told that the chains need to be disconnected while backing up. Those with experience can weigh in on that.

NO NEED to disconnect unless your backing creates a more extreme angle than your rig would see when turning sharply

X2

tight turns either forward or backing is discouraged but not impossible with chains hooked up...

I have never used any other system other than the Harbor Freight chain WDH, but I found that after getting used to it and USING my electric tongue jack to help in the hooking and un-hooking of the chains that the whole process is fairly quick and easy to do...

i.e. after getting on the ball and latching coupler, RAISE the whole rear of the tow vehicle using ELECTRIC tongue jack, slip the chains onto the latches on each side, then lower and put jack into tow height... Do the reverse when UN-chaining... no straining, no pain... HOWEVER would not want to do this with a manual tongue jack...

[TaWiMa]

Originally Posted by Kaadk

Sidetrack here, but generally it's not the chains that need to be disconnected. You leave those engaged, as they're the Weight Distributing part of the hitch. It's the Anti-Sway friction bars that limit turning radius that you want to remove if you're going to be turning tighter than their minimum travel. Which, most of the times I've backed into sites where I have to turn, as been the case. On my TT, with the anti-sway bars engaged, my turning radius is only 30 degrees or so. Removing the bars I can get closer to 60 degrees, and 75 sometimes if I really jackknife it.

Thank you! I was misinformed on the chain system. With my equalizer, i can get about 75°.

I call it big $$$ because it was almost a grand including setup at the dealer.

[JohnD10]

Originally Posted by rsdata

i.e. after getting on the ball and latching coupler, RAISE the whole rear of the tow vehicle using ELECTRIC tongue jack, slip the chains onto the latches on each side, then lower and put jack into tow height... Do the reverse when UN-chaining... no straining, no pain...

HOWEVER would not want to do this with a manual tongue jack...

I did it for 20 years that way...

Good workout for the arm muscles!

By the by...there is more to it than just raising everything up so that the hookup is easier.

The whole idea behind that routine is so that you can visually raise the rear of the truck with the weight off of the trailer on the ball until the truck is level...

THEN you attach the torsion bars and then crank the tongue jack down to put the weight back on the hitch of the truck!

This is the part of this whole process that many don't seem to understand.

I can't tell you how many newbies and experienced campers that didn't know this and just thought they needed to hook it up and go, without actually leveling out the truck.

Which is the sole purpose of a weight distributing hitch system in the first place!

[ddbck]

Originally Posted by JohnD10

Who races pulling a travel trailer?

I'd say half of the TT's and 5'vers I see on the interstate!

Last summer I followed a guy towing a 5th-wheel all the way from Denver to Colorado Springs...I wasn't towing.

He blew by me like I was parked (and I was going 75 mph), so I decided to see just how fast he was going.

He averaged 85 mph, but topped out at 96 mph...towing a 5th-wheel that was too big for his truck!

He probably had Timbrens & was fine. Stop bitching. If it was that unsafe do your duty.......lol

[Stovebolt]

Originally Posted by My17Ram

Completely incorrect and uninformed. The ratios in the 8 speed make the 3.21 equipped Rams ideal for towing up to 8000 lbs. the 3.92 will give an additional 2000 lbs capacity. It isn’t 1994 anymore these 8 and 10 speed transmissions optimize towing capacity as well as mpg’s.

Yeah? Well when you want to step up to that extra 2000 lb heavier trailer at a later date, you will either have to change the rear gears or get a new truck. I'm not uninformed, I happen to be a mechanic and have studied this for a living. Lower gears better towing, the transmission still has friction and heat is not your friend, I don't care how many gears you have. Why would you opt for less? Always buy as if you are going to pull the heaviest trailer that a particular vehicle will tow. Some people just love to argue their point whether it makes sense or not.

[bikendan]

Originally Posted by TaWiMa

Thank you! I was misinformed on the chain system. With my equalizer, i can get about 75°.

I call it big $$$ because it was almost a grand including setup at the dealer.

WOW!
My 4pt Equal-i-zer from RVW, with free shipping, cost me $400 and the trailer dealer installed it for free.

[TaWiMa]

Originally Posted by bikendan

WOW!
My 4pt Equal-i-zer from RVW, with free shipping, cost me $400 and the trailer dealer installed it for free.

[emoji37] Figures I would find the "better deal".
I know how to do it now if the need ever comes up. However, if/when we change trailers again, I'll be complaining about the cost of a 5er setup. [emoji6]

[djeazie]

Originally Posted by Stovebolt

Yeah? Well when you want to step up to that extra 2000 lb heavier trailer at a later date, you will either have to change the rear gears or get a new truck. I'm not uninformed, I happen to be a mechanic and have studied this for a living. Lower gears better towing, the transmission still has friction and heat is not your friend, I don't care how many gears you have. Why would you opt for less? Always buy as if you are going to pull the heaviest trailer that a particular vehicle will tow. Some people just love to argue their point whether it makes sense or not.

Maybe he doesn’t plan on ever going bigger. And if you’ve studied all this you would understand it’s plenty of truck for him and stop telling him it’s not. Not everyone need a one ton truck to tow their trailer. Common sense goes a long way when towing. Slow down, make sure your setup is right and be conscious of how the weight in your trailer is loaded. Like I’ve said I have the exact same truck, same gear, same trans and never have trans temps over 195-197, and I tow a much larger trailer. Are there better trucks for towing? Yes. But he doesn’t need one.

[Steve Holder]

Air bags for rear will help had set on my 02 ram pulling 30 ft Tt

[JohnD10]

Originally Posted by ddbck

He probably had Timbrens & was fine. Stop bitching. If it was that unsafe do your duty.......lol

Oh...was that you I was following???